Rattle Can Paint Job!

[Matt.Lai]

Hey, how about a "I rattlecanned my bike - Pictures" thread! It would be cool if everyone could mention prices/time/procedure and an overall opinion of their work (as well as a few pointers). My racebike has been needing a rattlecan job for some time now, but I'm still a-scared and want to hear more about everyone's experiences!

New thread a good idea?

-MATT

 

[Joebar4000]

This was a rattle-can job, except the color, which was brushed (yes, really) then flatted with 800, then 1200, then 1500, then T-cut...

 

[FoolishMortal]

It's amazing what you can do with a rat-bike, some cans o' paint, and lotsa time... Looks like you did a fine job!

Has anyone tried the new "plastic saturating" paint from Krylon? I actually saw a TV commercial for it and thought, "that should be a BARF sponsor..."

 

[kneeSparX]

heres my rat-can-bike

i used a flat black to avoid glossy spots..

 

[SRAD600]

Thanx for all the barf love !

How many coats did you have to use?

I did two coats of primer and then two coats of color, then clear enamel on top...but my MAJOR screw up was painting the clear coat outside...as the wind blew dust into the finish coat...

that's why it looks like a matte finish..

$20 a pint for the paint, and I'd figure about 2 pints to do a whole set of bodywork (including tank). Then clearcoat, plus all the hardeners and reducers and crap, probably end up around $80-$100 for a single color, more or less

That's not as bad as i thought it would be price wise. The tiller looks hella clean though, probably couldn't notice the blemishes until you got up close.

Nice job with the can.... any history of Graffiti experience? J/k... honestly... nice job...i'm partial to gray also.

I think it's just you and me bro...no one else likes the color...but hey, that's what makes it cool

Dang, lotta nice jobs w/ can paint. Next time I think i'll paint it indoors though

 

[dgrace]

The tiller looks hella clean though, probably couldn't notice the blemishes until you got up close.

Well it's a TLR, they all look awesome. Seriously, every time I take it to the track it chips off a little more, and all those bugs just get embedded in the front, they never come off. With the auto paint you can wipe it clean after a track session, and if you bend the fairings a bit (like when installing/removing) the paint doesn't chip. I'll probably stick to auto paint from now on, just for the durability if nothing else.

dave

 

[Max Smiley]

you shot it outdoors I'd say it came out extremely well for doing that! I'm partial to metalflakes and candies. there was a color called pantera gray that was more blacker / dark gray (like anthracite) but has fine gold flakes. truly bitchin' in the sunlight or streetlights without being too bling.


joebar4000 - what's "t-cut" ?

 

[agent66]

hey kneesparx got any more pic's of your bike. Man flat black looks kickass I think I'll spray my race plastics flat what did you use and any tips?

heres my rat-can-bike

i used a flat black to avoid glossy spots..

 

[donoman]

Here's my rattlecan job:

 

[Rambeezi]

Here's my rattlecan job:

DAMN!!! Screw professional painters!! I'm heading out to OSH right now!!

 

[SRAD600]

Someone should write up a tutorial "How to Spray your bike for $40 or less", and sell it in the cheap ass section of Kraigens

Man, home jobs rule

 

[kneeSparX]

 

[kneeSparX]

 

[kneeSparX]

this is what i did, (its probably all wrong and any painter would call me a moron, but hell, ide rather spend the $$ on a track day than a paint job)

I used fiberglass for large cracks in race plastics and bondo or glazing putty to repair finer dings or tank dents.

sandpaper: 80 (dry) for shaping shit like bondo and glass

sandpaper: 300 - 600 grit (wet) to prep for paint

Primer - any with a fan tipped can

rust tough enamel (semiflat - fan tipped can) 3 - 6 coats

dupli-color bumpercoating on lowers (for dings from pebbles)

 

[cleoent]

kneesparx that's close to what i'm doing however i also used 80grit dry and it left noticeable scratches in my parts. Now I'm using 220 wet to sand the putty and stuff, takes a bit longer but its not leaving huge scratches.

 

[agent66]

Damn that turned out great.. did you do the sanding mounted or off the bike?

this is what i did, (its probably all wrong and any painter would call me a moron, but hell, ide rather spend the $$ on a track day than a paint job)

I used fiberglass for large cracks in race plastics and bondo or glazing putty to repair finer dings or tank dents.

sandpaper: 80 (dry) for shaping shit like bondo and glass

sandpaper: 300 - 600 grit (wet) to prep for paint

Primer - any with a fan tipped can

rust tough enamel (semiflat - fan tipped can) 3 - 6 coats

dupli-color bumpercoating on lowers (for dings from pebbles)

 

[cleoent]

im sanding my pieces off of the bike, but let me tell you i think it would be 1000000000000x easier if i had left them on the bike

 

[Max Smiley]

alot more messy doing the wet sanding though. then again the pieces I'm doing are small enough to hold in the sink under the faucet

buffed all by hand today, lotta' work. some parts look way good, but my crap spray job underneath bums me out. first pass at this so oh well. I will try to use my old car buffer or something. this must be done by the weekend dagnambit.

 

[campas12]

when using the flat black paint- how flexible/durable is it?!
only cause my race skins tend to flex a lot when installing the lower/upper- i don't want it crackin/flaking off when installing =/

 

[SRAD600]

I used flat black as an accent color and I haven't seen it crack yet...at least no place that didn't already have a crack in the glass .

Plus I lost my rear end on some paint the other night, so I scratched it all up again

Good excuse to start over and use some of the techniques I've learned here