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San Francisco and bound for South America

It's pouring right now (bike is under a tarp) but yes, my guess is to check on the spark plugs. While the plugs are "covered" by the tank, water thrown up by the front wheel might lead to water pooling there. Of course, as soon as the road dries, any water will quickly evaporate from the hot engine so this could explain my problem. Just can't check yet...
 
Day 22

Dia: 22
Fecha: Miércoles, 18 de Agosto
Today's ride: from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coban">Cobán</a> to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tikal">Tikal</a>, ~200 miles, 5 hours
Total Miles: 4341

After managing to pass out at 7pm the night before, I felt pretty rested by 5:30am and got up. One really weird thing is that Mexico is an hour ahead of Guatemala even though it's west of it. This is due to the non-observance of Daylight Savings Time in Guatemala. In my case, it just felt like I got an extra hour of sleep while coming to Guatemala.

There are two general ways of getting from the Antigua/Guatemala City area to Tikal, either along the western border via Cobán, or east first along the Rio Dulce, then hugging the border with Belize. I was of course on the western route, being in Cobán already. However, my GPS map set (OSM) wanted to send me east from Cobán past Lanquin to then take up the eastern route, never mind that the road turns to gravel after Lanquin. As I found out later, the GPS was struggling with this:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908564579/" title="SDC12645 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4908564579_01bcb13484.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12645" /></a>
The western route requires a ferry crossing (5 Quetzales, or less than a dollar). The GPS thought that the road had a break in it and obviously would not send me that way then.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909159662/" title="SDC12644 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4909159662_477725121c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12644" /></a>
Fellow bikers on the ferry.

A couple quick thoughts on the GPS: I bought a new <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CSZSDI/ref=oss_product">Garmin nüvi 500</a> for $198 for this trip that is attached to the handlebar via a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00361ERPE/ref=oss_product">RAM mounting system</a> for another $31. Garmin and others sell maps for most countries but for usually $50 each, you could see how this would add up quickly. I ended up downloading the free map set from <a href="http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/OSM_Map_On_Garmin">OpenStreetMap (OSM)</a> and it's worked pretty well so far. It had a major section of road missing between Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo, a couple times having the actual road be offset from the map by a good 20 yards, and then wanting to send me down this gravel road this day but the location of cities and towns have been accurate. So basically, as long as you're diligent, this works pretty well.

Ok, so with the path today not given by my GPS, I laid out my route using bing and google maps and headed north along the following town: Chisec, Las Posas, Sayatche (where the ferry is), La Libertad, San Benito/Flores, and finally on to Tikal. The internet at the hotel I stayed at in Cobán had gone down before I was able to research hotels and hostels near <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flores,_El_Peten">Flores</a> and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tikal">Tikal</a> but I figured I would find something as it is pretty much the most important Mayan ruin. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flores,_El_Peten">Flores</a> is usually the hub most tourists start from when visiting <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tikal">Tikal</a> but it's a good 40 miles away.

As it turns out, there are three hotels inside the park, walking distance to the entrance to the ruins. I chose the Tikal Inn which at $40 a night was a fraction cheaper than the Jaguar Inn. I had stayed in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coban">Cobán</a> for $15 but I expected this considering that Tikal is a major tourist site. Flores hotels are probably a lot cheaper but the bus service to the park is run by a monopoly so I figure it is a wash and I am better off with the convenience of the Tikal Inn. Two nice things about it are the swimming pool and wifi service. They also have their own guide and I opted for the two tour package at $25, one this afternoon, the other at 5:45am the next morning.

<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tikal">Tikal</a> was the Mayan superpower and the ruin today is by far the largest, on the scale of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angkor_Wat">Angkor Wat</a> which I had visited earlier this year. It went into decline about 900 A.D. as part of the phenomenon called the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Classic_Maya_collapse">Classic Maya Collapse</a> when several Mayan cities were abandoned. What's fascinating about this is that the city saw a large population increase due to an influx of refugees from the surrounding areas caused by endemic warfare. This overwhelmed the city's capacity to produce food, leading to famine and collapse. At least that's the leading theory.

Ok, picture time!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908569629/" title="SDC12657 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4908569629_da67d2998d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12657" /></a>
Complex Q. A Complex is a collection of 4 buildings built along a North/South, East/West axis. This is a temple in one of these complexes.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908570241/" title="SDC12658 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4908570241_1b60f0c061.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12658" /></a>
View from the top. There are seven of these steles/altar sets at the foot of this pyramid.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908571001/" title="SDC12659 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4908571001_90d27d9617.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12659" /></a>
Well hello there!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909166810/" title="SDC12660 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4909166810_0990058acd.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12660" /></a>
This is the opposing pyramid that has not been excavated. Amazing how they found these in the first place.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909168988/" title="SDC12664 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4909168988_e46d48e4b7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12664" /></a>
Broken stele and altar.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909171488/" title="SDC12668 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4909171488_2885332590.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12668" /></a>
Huge bug.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908578277/" title="SDC12674 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4098/4908578277_81978275cf.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12674" /></a>
Finally, a glimpse at the big boys! This is the backside of Temple I.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908580075/" title="SDC12679 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4908580075_9d39b3e4ca.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12679" /></a>
One of the buildings making up the Central Acropolis.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908583563/" title="SDC12688 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4908583563_f23bd284ef.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12688" /></a>
The top of Temple V as seen from the Central Acropolis.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909180006/" title="SDC12690 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4909180006_85242575f3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12690" /></a>
Pretty plants.

The next two pictures are a partial panorama of the Great Plaza as seen from the Central Acropolis:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908587377/" title="SDC12695 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4908587377_2c6b06672b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12695" /></a>
North Acropolis and Temple I.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908587691/" title="SDC12696 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4908587691_8304270abe.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12696" /></a>
Temple II and the other half of the North Acropolis.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909188742/" title="SDC12712 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4909188742_d9cff8c44c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12712" /></a>
Temple II.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909186182/" title="SDC12706 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4909186182_beb7b1fbe9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12706" /></a>
And the view from Temple II towards Temple I.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909187976/" title="SDC12710 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4909187976_e4764a02d4.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12710" /></a>
Pretty steep stairs.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908595807/" title="SDC12718 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/4908595807_90f7a20d04.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12718" /></a>
A stele.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909191532/" title="SDC12721 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4909191532_e7cf63c0c9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12721" /></a>
The right symbol stands or the name of the city, Yax Mutul.

These pyramids and buildings were built on top of each other like a set of Russian <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matryoshka_doll">Matryoshka dolls</a>. Sometimes, you find something interesting:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909193216/" title="SDC12727 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/4909193216_a10bf7f04c.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12727" /></a>
The rain god Chaac.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908599233/" title="SDC12730 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4908599233_028b11711e.jpg" width="500" height="354" alt="SDC12730" /></a>
And another layer down.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908600691/" title="SDC12734 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4908600691_325c0182ef.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12734" /></a>
And finally, a view from the North Acropolis towards the Great plaza flanked by the Temples I and II.

Daylight was running out so we walked back through the jungle to the hotel where I wasted little time in jumping in the pool. Tomorrow, more Tikal, then off to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copan">Copán</a>.

As always, a lot of images were left on the cutting floor but you can see them on my <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/">flickr page</a>.
 
Day 23

Dia: 23
Fecha: Jueves, 19 de Agosto
Today's ride: from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tikal">Tikal</a> to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copan">Copán, Honduras</a>, ~228 miles, 7 hours
Total Miles: 4569

I woke to the alarm I had set to 5:30 and quickly got ready for the morning tour of Tikal. Bugs are out in force in the morning so I sprayed myself liberally.

We walked a good 35 minutes to get to our first destination, Temple IV. It is the tallest still standing pre-Columbian structure in the Americas at 230ft/70m. A couple buildings in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teotihuacan">Teotihuacan</a> and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Mirador">El Mirado</a>, respectively, may have been larger but are not today. You can't actually get a good view of the pyramid as it's completely surrounded by jungle. What's left to do? Climb it!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908966585/" title="SDC12753 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4908966585_5871000a5d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12753" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909564372/" title="SDC12754 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4909564372_a92d1e13fb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12754" /></a>
From left to right, these are temples I, II, and V.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909548032/" title="SDC12744 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4909548032_89ed5c4abb.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12744" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908959233/" title="SDC12748 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4908959233_b4b56e3e0f.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12748" /></a>
Italian tourist providing some scale.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908953533/" title="SDC12746 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4908953533_fb6e2ac6df.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12746" /></a>
That's 230ft down.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908968097/" title="SDC12758 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4908968097_b0840dec38.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12758" /></a>
It's hard to take a picture of the pyramid when you're standing on it.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908968523/" title="SDC12759 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4908968523_3446ed820f.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12759" /></a>
A trap for really big game.

After this, we went to a section of the ruins called Mundo Perdido, the lost world.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908970099/" title="SDC12765 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4908970099_45b07a42b0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12765" /></a>
Note the stuff "lying" on the staircase? That's an additional layer of construction that had been removed.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909568002/" title="SDC12767 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4095/4909568002_d19276ba7a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12767" /></a>
See how the stairs are laid into the pyramid instead of added on top? This is the Teotihuacan style of a pyramid.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908972801/" title="SDC12771 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4908972801_a3785ab478.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12771" /></a>
Same pyramid but from the side. You can see it's unrestored except for the removal of vegetation.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909570474/" title="SDC12772 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4909570474_4a38cd7c48.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12772" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909572910/" title="SDC12779 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/4909572910_5c3c5eae1b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12779" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908977535/" title="SDC12783 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4908977535_1da8a47a2d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12783" /></a>
The Plaza of the Seven Temples. It's also unusual for having three ball courts.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908979369/" title="SDC12786 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4908979369_5dc8798fd8.jpg" width="412" height="500" alt="SDC12786" /></a>
A couple falcons.

Now, Temple V. It is "only" 187ft/57m tall but as it is completely excavated, we can actually get a sense of the scale of it.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909593334/" title="SDC12820 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4909593334_70380f8024.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12820" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909592904/" title="SDC12819 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4909592904_fb2eff6223.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12819" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909591248/" title="SDC12816 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4909591248_b6389f96e3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12816" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909590216/" title="SDC12812 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/4909590216_bf86eb689d.jpg" width="500" height="273" alt="SDC12812" /></a>
Before and after pictures. The excavation and restoration was done with the help of the Spanish Government.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908993225/" title="SDC12811 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4908993225_26bcc279d0.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12811" /></a>
These stairs are ridiculously steep.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908992193/" title="SDC12808 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4908992193_9cb1e3c3bb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12808" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909588662/" title="SDC12807 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4909588662_2b942cd907.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12807" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909588334/" title="SDC12806 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/4909588334_16cde914d4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12806" /></a>
What a view.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908988441/" title="SDC12799 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4908988441_80cd1c939c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12799" /></a>
Temple I and backside of the Central Acropolis.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909584232/" title="SDC12796 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4098/4909584232_1ba62a2c9b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12796" /></a>
This hill in the background is the so far unexcavated South Acropolis. What lurks beneath?

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909593966/" title="SDC12821 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/4909593966_4681aff7a4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12821" /></a>
Not sure what this animal is called.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4908998293/" title="SDC12824 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4908998293_bf6185c5a0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12824" /></a>
The Great Plaza in sunshine now.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909595432/" title="SDC12825 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4909595432_ba337d47db.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12825" /></a>
Temple II again.

And with this, we went back to the hotel where I jumped in the pool and then got ready to leave. Tikal is definitely worth a visit but one night's stay suffices. There isn't anything else to do here. Unfortunately, the internet was down so I was unable to pick a hotel/hostel for my next destination. I was planning on heading to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copan">Copán Ruinas, Honduras</a> but I was entertaining the idea of stopping somewhere, like <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Livingston,_Guatemala">Livingston</a>, a small island off the Caribbean coast of Guatemala populated by a mix of people including Garífuna. Alas, the idea of a boatride with the bike did not appeal to me too much so I pressed on towards the Honduran border crossing at El Florido. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copan">Copán Ruinas</a> is less than ten miles from the border but I had no idea how long this crossing would take and clouds were brewing.

It turned out to be hassle free. The immigration offices for the two countries are in the same building, just a window apart. On the Guatemalan side, I was stamped out of the country for 5 Quetzales or less than one dollar. Nothing was needed for my motorcycle. At the Honduran window, there was a $3 charge for the services of migracion, which consisted of putting a paper into my passport. To import the bike to Honduras, I had to ride a little further to reach the aduano office. I handed the person my passport, driver license, title, and registration. He asked for two copies of each and I had most, though not all. He then just went next door and made the missing copies himself. Extremely helpful and easy. The importation cost $35. So.. less than $37 and half an hour later, I was done with the border and into Honduras.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909603308/" title="SDC12836 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4909603308_d6e9fd0bfc.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12836" /></a>
View back towards Guatemala from the aduano office.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4909603636/" title="SDC12837 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4909603636_fdf06a9c6d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12837" /></a>
The Honduran aduano.

It had started to rain while I was at the border but Copán Ruinas lay less than ten miles away. In town, I was looking for a hostel of which I remembered the name when a tuctuc driver told me to follow him as he could lead me there. Considering I hadn't even completed my sentence mentioning the name of it, I knew he was just trying to get me into his hotel. Which is exactly what happened. Still, the place had wifi and only cost $11, less than half what I expected to pay so I stayed there. It was called the Hotel Mar Jenny.

Tomorrow, explore the ruins of Copán, then off to El Salvador!

As always, a lot of images were left on the cutting floor but you can see them on my <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/">flickr page</a>.
 
Day 24

Dia: 24
Fecha: Viernes, 20 de Agosto
Today's ride: from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copan">Copán, Honduras</a> to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Libertad,_La_Libertad">La Libertad, El Salvador</a>, ~160 miles, 5 hours
Total Miles: 4729

Another day, another set of ruins. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copan">Copán</a> was the south-eastern most outpost of the Mayan civilization so it's not as large as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tikal">Tikal</a>. It distinguishes itself with its steles and altars.

First though, I was greeted by a bickering flock of parrots at the entrance. They are wild but seem to be very used to people.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914340403/" title="SDC12846 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4098/4914340403_541620dc2e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12846" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914340815/" title="SDC12847 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4914340815_99de782296.jpg" width="500" height="368" alt="SDC12847" /></a>
In flight.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914591051/" title="SDC12918 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4097/4914591051_fa96facd9b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12918" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4915197280/" title="SDC12920 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4915197280_a643461dc2.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12920" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914594617/" title="SDC12921 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4914594617_cd7bca4540.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12921" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914595597/" title="SDC12923 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4914595597_2bf96c6638.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12923" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4915191270/" title="SDC12914 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4097/4915191270_c5d2016c2c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12914" /></a>
My favorite shot.

Ok, enough about the parrots. Let's get ruined!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914950422/" title="SDC12853 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4914950422_31653389b8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12853" /></a>
The Great or Monument Plaza.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914348979/" title="SDC12855 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4914348979_aa755aed14.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12855" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914345073/" title="SDC12851 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4914345073_da15c43bff.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12851" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914945326/" title="SDC12848 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/4914945326_7aaf6d9167.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12848" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914357251/" title="SDC12863 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4914357251_3587db0b57.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12863" /></a>
The ballcourt and the Acropolis.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914360277/" title="SDC12866 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4914360277_757cfca51a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12866" /></a>
Temple 11. The Acropolis space in front and the West Court behind it.

The Hieroglyphic Stairway:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914362219/" title="SDC12868 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4914362219_f5a15a3d23.jpg" width="500" height="399" alt="SDC12868" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914363841/" title="SDC12869 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4914363841_8e430cf39c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12869" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914969766/" title="SDC12872 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4914969766_d28a79047a.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12872" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914380993/" title="SDC12885 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4097/4914380993_65a85e1fac.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12885" /></a>
A view of the Acropolis from Temple 11.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914976234/" title="SDC12878 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/4914976234_23f9afb23c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12878" /></a>
The West Court with Structure 10L-16 (Temple 16) as seen from Temple 11. You can also make out Altar Q.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914375955/" title="SDC12881 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4914375955_12c260b45c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12881" /></a>
The East Court as seen from Temple 11.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914382021/" title="SDC12886 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4914382021_5f73072e73.jpg" width="500" height="383" alt="SDC12886" /></a>
Cornerstone, the god Chaac.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914420797/" title="SDC12889 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4914420797_d6b1220bf8.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12889" /></a>
And another.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914423181/" title="SDC12891 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4914423181_6d49c04e7d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12891" /></a>
The East Court. The city ends pretty abruptly beyond it as the river has carried away large portions of the ruins.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4915037374/" title="SDC12896 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4115/4915037374_85786b6e08.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12896" /></a>
Sculptures in the East Court.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4915039260/" title="SDC12898 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/4915039260_df775be66c.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12898" /></a>
Not sure where he belongs to.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4915171926/" title="SDC12900 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4915171926_c8b9faa9fa.jpg" width="500" height="398" alt="SDC12900" /></a>
Famous Altar Q has images of the first 16 rulers of Copán.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914572441/" title="SDC12902 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4914572441_9986991a8a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12902" /></a>
Definitely has a lost city look to it.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4915185076/" title="SDC12909 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4915185076_a775b5eedb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12909" /></a>
A headstone.

Done with the ruins, I headed back to the hotel, showered, and packed up. The goal today was the beach at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Libertad,_La_Libertad">La Libertad, El Salvador</a>, just 160 miles away. The GPS wanted to send me back to Guatemala, requiring two border crossings so I ignored it as I knew I wanted to cross the border via Santa Rosa de Copán at Nuevo Ocotepeque, Honduras / San Ignacio, El Salvador.

Pretty close to the border, there is a large climb from an altitude of maybe 2000ft to over 6000ft. The bike would suddenly start sputtering at somewhere near 5000ft. At the same time, I was facing torrential rain. The bike didn't die though and there really wasn't a place for me to stop and do anything about it so I kept going, revving the engine to keep the sputter at bay. On the downhill, the problem continued but disappeared once I dropped below 5000ft. Incidentally, that is also when the rain stopped.
That was the last I saw of this new problem this day.

Now, my first thought was, I had adjusted the fuel/air screw during my previous set of problems (the one fixed with the removal of the stock inline fuel filter) so maybe the bike was now running leaner (my mpg had improved from about 44mpg to 48mpg last I checked) and too lean for higher altitudes. I figured I would deal with this later as it wasn't stopping me in my tracks.

Finally at the border, my timing sucked as I arrived during lunch hour. I was handed a piece of paper by the official manning the El Salvador gate where all the vehicle information was to be filled out. It wasn't clear to me whether I should do it or the official at the aduano.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4915204228/" title="SDC12929 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4915204228_f92dd1f3ac.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12929" /></a>
The gate where the El Salvadorian handed me the piece of paper.

I stopped at the migracion where a Honduran checked my passport. Unlike Guatemala where I was stamped in and out of the country, Honduras just had stapled a paper into the passport and this official just took a look at it, then handed it to his El Salvadorian counterpart standing next to him. She looked at it, handed it back to me and pointed me towards the aduano. So I do not have stamps for either country in my passport.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914601411/" title="SDC12930 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4914601411_f5834c4bdc.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12930" /></a>
Migracion.

So I rode a little further and stopped at the El Salvadorian aduano.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914602041/" title="SDC12931 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4914602041_06af85a44f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12931" /></a>
The security guard was helpful and pointed me at the right window but the official I needed to talk to was still out at lunch. I bought some ice tea and settled down for the 20 minute wait.

One nice thing about El Salvador? They use US currency so it's an easy place in that regard.

Once he shows up, he's very helpful. It's the same deal again, hand over passport, driver license, title, and registration. He makes copies as he needs them so again, no hassle. There is some difficulty though as I had not cancelled my import permit for Honduras. There is some discussion between him and his colleagues as I tell them that I will be returning to Honduras in order to get to Nicaragua and whether it would be necessary. The consensus is that I do and they send me back to the Honduran aduano on the other side.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4915202608/" title="SDC12927 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4915202608_566c6119d8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12927" /></a>
The Honduran aduano, where I should have stopped first. Oh well.

So here, I hand them the paper I had been given at El Florido and my passport. It takes them a good 15 minutes but I'm handed it all back. I check again regarding my return to Honduras and the official says that unless I come through the same border crossing, I will have to pay the $35 dollars again. It kind of sucks but it's a large detour otherwise. After this, I head back to the El Salvadorian aduano where everything gets wrapped up in another 20 minutes now that my bike is properly checked out of Honduras. The official is actually pretty nice and we talk about bikes as he has a 125cc motorcycle. I'm not sure if it's the biker thing or the Swiss passport but I'm getting zero hassle and just lots of helpful people at all the border crossings so far.

So in short, for Honduras, make sure you export your vehicle at their aduano first, that was my mistake.

Cash outlay for this border crossing? $0. Absolutely nothing. It did take two hours but I figure had I not shown up at lunch and done the exportation in Honduras first, it would have been just an hour.

So on I head towards La Libertad which takes me through San Salvador. Traffic sucks and at places, the lanes are too narrow to split but I make finally make it through. From San Salvador, it is only another 20 miles or so to La Libertad, descending over 3000ft. The hostel I'm staying at is actually just a little bit south of La Libertad at Playa San Diego. It's called El Roble.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4915206562/" title="SDC12932 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/4915206562_0a988a5b2d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12932" /></a>

It's a huge place with a pool, volleyball court, and lots of other games. A single room is $20 and the couple (he's British) running it are very nice. It's a good ten minute walk to the beach. This area of El Salvador is known for surfing and has some huge waves. It's hard to make out in the pictures really.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4915209798/" title="SDC12938 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/4915209798_14ac9d7b0a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12938" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4915210402/" title="SDC12939 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/4915210402_2151940e6a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12939" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4915215080/" title="SDC12943 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/4915215080_7cc5a61869.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12943" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914605465/" title="SDC12937 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4115/4914605465_bd78dbd74e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12937" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4914610711/" title="SDC12942 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4914610711_067da8f1de.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12942" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4915216444/" title="SDC12945 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/4915216444_e6d4b68884.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12945" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4915217570/" title="SDC12946 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4915217570_bfd5c881fa.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12946" /></a>
Artsy shots.

Afterwards, I went to the popuseria the hosts had recommended. It's just a roadside stand. 2 popusas for a quarter. I had 4.
 
Last edited:
Day 25

Dia: 25
Fecha: Sábado, 21 de Agosto
Today's ride: from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Libertad,_La_Libertad">La Libertad</a> to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alegria,_Usulutan">Alegría</a>, ~86 miles, 3 hours
Total Miles: 4815, revised to 5038 bike/4867 GPS

I should talk about the mileage revision. The last week or so, I did not write down the number each day from my bike so the mileages were taken from bing maps and then added to the previous total. Now that I checked the bike though, there is this discrepancy. My GPS gives me a third number at 4867.5 miles. I know that at least speed wise, there is a 10% difference between the bike and the GPS. I figure the GPS is more accurate. My plan for now is to just report both every once in a while.

It was pouring overnight and into the morning. My plan was to take a swim in the ocean, pack up, and head to the little mountain village of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alegria,_Usulutan">Alegría</a> 90 miles away in Eastern El Salvador so I wasn't in a particular hurry.

After the rain finally stopped, I went to the beach. It's utterly deserted and the water is amazingly warm for 8:30 in the morning. Alas, it's pretty much impossible to actually swim as the waves and the sheer amount of water washing up on the beach keep you focused on not being swept under. Still, it's fun, just not relaxing.

All packed up and geared up, I start the engine. The exhaust billows a cloud of white smoke so I'm a bit worried. After a few minutes, it disappears though. I figure it was water that had entered the exhaust from the rain overnight. I guess I could count myself lucky for this delay as it starts to rain again just then and instead of being on the road, I'm still at the hostel and decide to wait it out. It starts pouring.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4917734697/" title="SDC12951 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4917734697_04c84ec904.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12951" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4918337622/" title="SDC12954 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4918337622_202e47930c.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12954" /></a>
Sheltered.

Half an hour later, I'm definitely on my way. Once on the main road to La Libertad, my bike starts to sputter. I'm at sea level so the theory that it's the altitude that was causing my problems is out the window. I do not recall whether it was raining already but the roads were definitely wet. Maybe it's the spray from the tire? Climbing towards San Salvador, it is definitely coming down and the bike sputters but never dies. Once in San Salvador, the flood gates open and I decide to pull over and find shelter under a tree. After 20 minutes though, the protection the tree offered is gone so I decide to just press on. My destination now is about 60 miles away so I figure I'll be there in an hour and a half.

About twenty miles from Alegría, the rain stops and the road dries up. With it, my engine problems are gone. I arrive in the mountain village and find the hostel I was looking for, <a href="http://www.hostalentrepiedras.com/indexi.html">Hostal Entre Piedras</a>. I get a huge room and bathroom for $16 a night. Ahh, a place to relax and rest!

I decided to visit Alegría on the recommendation of the host at the previous hostel. The village clings to the side of the extinct volcano Tecapa. Its caldera is partially filled by an emerald colored lake called Laguna de Alegría, supposedly one of the most beautiful places in El Salvador. Alas, everything is shrouded in fog but I figure I will see it the next day.

I walk around the village a bit.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4917740315/" title="SDC12957 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4917740315_ab6b9eee0f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12957" /></a>
Entrance to the hostel.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4917742861/" title="SDC12959 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/4917742861_86676b5318.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12959" /></a>
The church.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4917743907/" title="SDC12960 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/4917743907_85a59cf939.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12960" /></a>
One section of the road next to the central plaza is blocked off for street vendors.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4918341926/" title="SDC12958 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4918341926_1e2b0a7c8e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12958" /></a>

I decide to sample a bit:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4918346816/" title="SDC12962 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4918346816_8850d8bd95.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12962" /></a>
Fried Yucca paste. Very yummy actually.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4917747609/" title="SDC12963 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4917747609_662132a9d1.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC12963" /></a>
Coffee and a quesadilla. You read that right, a quesadilla here is very different. It's a pastry a bit similar to a cornbread but using cheese as an ingredient as well.

Tomorrow is a rest day and I'm hoping to get a chance to see the emerald lake.
 
Day 26

Dia: 26
Fecha: Domingo, 22 de Agosto
Today's ride: lazy day in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alegria,_Usulutan">Alegría</a>, no riding
Total Miles: 5038 bike/4867 GPS

It was raining all night and it kept raining or drizzling pretty much all day. I worked on the blog and looked outside every couple hours, hoping for a chance to visit the lake.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4917793335/" title="IMG_0819 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4917793335_4aaff39841.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0819" /></a>
It seems the church is not large enough for the Sunday service.

I finally get a chance to see the lake in the afternoon. As it turns out, the rain had stopped in the village but inside the caldera, the drizzle continued.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4917801937/" title="SDC12966 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4917801937_c146611181.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12966" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4918399996/" title="SDC12964 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/4918399996_516faf1bb9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12964" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4917800367/" title="SDC12965 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4917800367_5f6e4c0675.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12965" /></a>
I got quite wet getting to the lake.

Back in town, I decided to get some coffee.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4917796231/" title="IMG_0822 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/4917796231_92a14eb27b.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_0822" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4918397786/" title="IMG_0823 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4918397786_6da6d21562.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0823" /></a>
The Cafe Venecia in its full glory.

Back in my room, I took a picture of my exploded bag:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4917805381/" title="SDC12969 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4917805381_46b8f49b08.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12969" /></a>

Everything on this trip is packed in Hefty ziplock bags, including the things in the saddle bags and my backpack. It's easier to move things around, takes up less space (air can be squeezed out), and keeps water out. Since none of my luggage is actually waterproof, this is quite important. I emptied the bag today to make sure it dries and doesn't turn moldy.

Tomorrow, I'll do the daunting double border passage to get to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leon,_Nicaragua">León, Nicaragua</a>. In order to get there, I have to pass through Honduras. We shall see how this goes.
 
I'm wondering whether removing the wire and cap from the spark plug and hosing it with WD-40 or a couple dabs of dielectric grease would help your sputtering problem. (assuming you can find either.)
 
Day 27

Dia: 27
Fecha: Lunes, 23 de Agosto
Today's ride: two border crossings, from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alegria,_Usulutan">Alegría, El Salvador</a> via Honduras to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leon,_Nicaragua">León, Nicaragua</a>
Total Miles: 5262 bike/4867 GPS

Another early morning. I am on the road before 7am and descending from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alegria,_Usulutan">Alegría</a>, I am treated to a gorgeous view of the valley.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922057130/" title="SDC12972 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/4922057130_45f9bc7aca.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12972" /></a>

Every day, I keep an eye out for large motorcycles on the off-chance that I would see another adventure rider. Near San Miguel, I saw two non-native machines that turned out to be Suzuki V-stroms heading the other way and as they seemed to be pulling over, I turned around. They were two Argentinians from Bariloche heading towards the US. You can see their blog at http://www.megaviaje2010.blogspot.com/.

They were very nice and gave me a couple maps the countries they had travelled through. May come in handy!

Soon after, I had reached the border to Honduras at El Amatillo.

The procedure seems to be the same here at every border:

The country you are leaving:
1. Export your vehicle at the customs/aduano, i.e. cancel your import permit.
2. Migracion then checks your passport as you're leaving, may or may not stamp it.

The country you are entering:
3. Migracion checks your passport and issues a visa, tourist card, or just nothing at all.
4. Importing the vehicle to the new country at the customs/aduano. This usually involves handing them the passport, driver licence, registration, and title. Sometimes, copies of these are needed.

Still 2 miles from the border, I see a couple officials on the street and I have reached the customs office/aduano. Alas, this is where you get mobbed by the fixers which I ignored. I hand them the requested passport and importation document I had received when I entered El Salvador.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922059070/" title="SDC12974 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4922059070_8634a7c632.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12974" /></a>
The customs office/aduano.

Alas, they needed a copy of the passport and importation document. There is a copy place right next door:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4921464587/" title="SDC12975 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4921464587_c4787ede5b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12975" /></a>
The officials tell you how many copies you need, in this case so just pay attention or ask again. I paid a quarter for the copies.

Two miles later, I'm at the border which happens to be a river as well.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4921465275/" title="SDC12976 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4921465275_6c2c0324bc.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12976" /></a>
The immigration offices for both El Salvador and Honduras are in this building, just a couple windows apart. Fixers and money changers are mobbing anyone arriving.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922060786/" title="SDC12977 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4922060786_8df37387af.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12977" /></a>
The nuns are at the El Salvador window while the Honduran migracion is just to the right.

Both steps are pretty quick and I only have to pay $3 for the immigration services rendered by Honduras.

The Honduran aduano is on the other side of the bridge.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4921466473/" title="SDC12979 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4921466473_e3b42175ee.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12979" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922062048/" title="SDC12980 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4922062048_5f18d4592e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12980" /></a>
A look back at the El Salvadorian side.

This is what greets you on the Honduran side.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922062506/" title="SDC12981 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4922062506_8bd4219a5e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12981" /></a>

There is no building marked as aduano or anything. While not acknowledging the horde of fixers, I still gather it's a yellow building on the right.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4921468245/" title="SDC12983 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4921468245_f228521774.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12983" /></a>
No sign whatsoever on the building itself or any inkling as to which door it is. I ask inside and am pointed at the right one, the one in the middle

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922063816/" title="SDC12984 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4922063816_bdc207ff07.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12984" /></a>
This fixer followed me from the other side. I told him I don't need his help and I really didn't.

The officials leave you to cope yourself with the fixers but are helpful when you talk to them. The fixers all have official looking badges around their necks but it's only the "DEI" ones that matter. Inside the office, I am told I need 3 copies each of the passport, driver license, registration, and title. There is a copy place just to the right.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4921469165/" title="SDC12985 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4921469165_ce2e561b5e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12985" /></a>
30 lempiras/$1.50 later, I head back into the office. The official bundles all my documents and puts them on a desk but then tells me only "el jefe", the manager, can actually process and sign these documents. He happens to be out of the office. It's 9am. I never figure out where or why he was gone but he finally shows up almost an hour and half later. All the stuff gets processed, some stuff gets entered into my passport and all the information goes into the computer. Now, I have to pay the $35 fee (just like last time) but alas, I have to head to the bank to do this. I am also supposed to have 4 copies of the import document then signed by the bank. So, first, to the copy place and get 4 copies, for 4 lempiras.

The bank is located inside the baby blue building in the middle of the road.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922065274/" title="SDC12987 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/4922065274_6833e8e885.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12987" /></a>
Banco de Occidente.

Alas, I have to pay to the $35 in Honduran currency, about 625 Lempiras which I don't have. The moneychangers are everywhere so that's taken care off quickly. Having paid in the proper currency, the lady in the bank then signs and stamps the 4 copies and I'm heading back to the yellow aduano building. The manager had actually held onto my driver licence while I was at the bank (so I wouldn't take off), takes three of the copies, hands me back my licence, and I'm on my way.

Total time? 3 hours. No bribes were asked for or anything. Without el jefe, nothing happens. The process cost $3 for the Honduran immigration, $35 for the import permit just like last time, and the a couple dollars for all the triplicate copies. Maybe my timing was bad but this could have been done within an hour and a half. The fixers are just majorly annoying but you can really ignore them. Leaving the border crossing, a copy of the receipt and import permit is collected by the last border guard. There are two more police checkpoints in the next couple miles but they don't make me pull out the documents. There is another one halfway to Nicaragua where I do have to show my documents but they let me go as well after a couple minutes.

The ride from border to border is about two hours.

The Honduran side was this building:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4921470939/" title="SDC12988 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4921470939_5c946be674.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12988" /></a>
I did not see a separate building for the customs office/aduano. As it turns out in this case, the migracion and aduano were both in this building, no sharing a roof between countries at this border crossing. The bike properly released from Honduras, I head towards the Nicaraguan side.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4921473185/" title="SDC12991 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4921473185_b95bbdcda2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12991" /></a>
Another bridge border crossing.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922069450/" title="SDC12993 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4922069450_bdc0d491e2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12993" /></a>
As soon as I reached the parking lot, two people approached me, each one with a different form in hand they said I needed to fill out. If I understood correctly, these were supposedly parking permits. Basically, they just wanted to make me pay them for parking there. I was rather curt and said since they weren't police, I could just ignore them, which I did. I walked into the office, first to migracion. Entering Nicaragua cost $12 and I was able to pay in dollars. The aduano is just down the hall. I hand over the usual four documents, passport, driver licence, registration, and title. At one point, the official walks outside and he quickly verifies the license plate and VIN number.
No copies required, nor do I have to pay anything. I am on my way!

So this border took less than an hour, only cost $12 and required no copies. I think El Amatillo is just one of the circles of hell.

Leading up to the border and then leaving on the other side, there are sections with potholes but nothing that slows you down much. I had been told that it would be really bad on the Nicaraguan side but that was not the case.

Ten miles from León, I catch up with a thunderstorm. As if on cue, my bike starts sputtering so reseating the spark plugs hadn't fixed my wet weather problem. I keep going.

Less than two miles from my destination, another motorcycle pulls up next two me with two blue-shirted, uniformed men on it. I note that they look a bit uncomfortable having been soaked by the rain. They motion for me to pull over and we stop under the relative shelter of a tree. They tell me that I had crossed the yellow line in the middle of the road and that I would have to pay a fine. Considering that so many cars, trucks, and busses do that here, we may as well be driving in Britain, I know I'm in for a shakedown. I turn on the stubborn and stupid and suddenly can't understand a word of Spanish. Since I only handed them one of the throw-away AAA licenses, I'm not really worried. First, they ask for $15, then somehow that figure goes up to $20 but my waiting game, the refusal to understand what they were telling me and general lack of responses to their questions wears them down. They hand me back the license and I take off. Finally, a small victory this day. In retrospect, I should have stopped out in the rain, not under the tree as I was sitting pretty wearing all my gear.

I arrive at my hostel, La Tortuga Booluda, the lazy turtle, utterly exhausted. After a shower, I do see some sunshine so I grab the chance to take a few pictures of the town.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922055943/" title="SDC12997 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4922055943_c0b05a735e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC12997" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922058861/" title="SDC13005 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4115/4922058861_a48ff5c2c5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13005" /></a>
Main plaza.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922653748/" title="SDC13006 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4922653748_aaa287dce6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13006" /></a>
The Cathedral.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922658332/" title="SDC13015 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4922658332_879a0dbd02.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13015" /></a>
A bus stop next to the market.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922062043/" title="SDC13012 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4922062043_d2fee41369.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13012" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922657270/" title="SDC13013 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/4922657270_58e2490ce0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13013" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922066257/" title="SDC13019 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4922066257_e26f43d724.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13019" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922661310/" title="SDC13021 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4922661310_0375f9fb34.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13021" /></a>
The park of the poets.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4922662368/" title="SDC13024 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4922662368_2dc57ebc83.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13024" /></a>
School's out!
 
boney said:
I'm wondering whether removing the wire and cap from the spark plug and hosing it with WD-40 or a couple dabs of dielectric grease would help your sputtering problem. (assuming you can find either.)
Click to expand...

this might help, no? It really seems like a water in the carb issue. wondering where else it might be slipping into the combustion area. good luck with that man.

2299341-el_amatillo_honduran_bordere__2_.jpg


El Amatillo, yep, I know it well. This is where I had the most difficulty with the fixers. They were incessant, and rude. they kept pushing us to pay fees, that were "needed" to get across the border. The whole time, we're ignoring them and getting our paperwork done on our own.

The officials won't tell them to stop or warn you of them, but when you ask an official about the paperwork, they certainly don't try to scam you or take your money. They are by the book. It's kind of one of those situations where they look at you and say...if you get taken....it's your own fault. But we'll help you if you ask.

When I finally got irritated, and knew I had all my paperwork in order, I walked up to the official, asked him, and he said, "no, you are free to go, you have all your paperwork in order"....:laughing the fixer was standing next to me and kept saying (in front of the official) that I needed to pay more fees and needed certain paperwork added. :rolleyes

we left this border with a clear eye on our 6 and watching for fixer's friends ahead.

Glad you made it through relatively painlessly. I have to say man, i absolutely love the heavy downpours in the evening. the worst one was in nicaragua, where we came upon a deluge of water running down the hill, and across the road, muddy and fast....we crept through it, and I wish I had taken the time to take a photo.

you're doing awesome man, and good freaking job on getting pulled over. It may happen again, especially in panama.
Remember, the further south you go, the slower things at the border may be.

again, KICKASS photos.

Nicaragua was funny...the northern portion is a lot more understanding and laid back, than the souther part...so be aware of that. I think the civil wars made them very bitter in the southern area...this coming from a few Nicaraguans (hostel owners) we chatted with while down there. Just smile and remember, you're in their country.

You're gonna love Lake Nicaragua.
 
machete said:
this might help, no? It really seems like a water in the carb issue. wondering where else it might be slipping into the combustion area. good luck with that man.
Click to expand...

Hmm.. I'm a bit confused.. how would unseated/unsealed spark plugs lead to a carb issue though?

Two things I need to look into is if I have any exposed wires that may be shorting. My guess though as yours is that I'm somehow getting water into the carb. I have to check if maybe a vent hose is missing and I'm getting water in that way. Interestingly enough, the sputter "stops" when I'm accelerating hard. I figure at that point, it overwhelms the water issue.

Leon is nice but I'll go on to Granada today. I want to see the lake too, not sure if I will go to the islands in the center of it yet. I also heard that San Jose del Sur is worth it. I can't believe I'm over 5000 miles over more than a quarter into this trip...
 
Finally discovered this thread and it took my two days to read it all! I'm loving every minute of it. Very easy to read and the photos are fantastic! Keep it up and ride safe...
 
Day 28

Dia: 28
Fecha: Martes, 24 de Agosto
Today's ride: from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leon,_Nicaragua">León</a> to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Granada,_Nicaragua">Granada</a>
Total Miles: 5346 bike/4951 GPS

While the hostel La Tortuga Booluda is very nice and I would recommend it, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leon,_Nicaragua">León</a> is just plain too hot for me. It does lie in the hottest region of Nicaragua. I decided to give its rival <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Granada,_Nicaragua">Granada</a> a shot.

Founded in 1524, making it one of the oldest cities in the Western Hemisphere, it just barely predates <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leon,_Nicaragua">León</a>. You might say that Nicaragua's history has been the rivalry between these two cities which was only settled with the establishment of the capital in a small fishing village between them, Managua.

I was flagged down twice today by police and asked for documents. I am not sure if this is routine but it sure is annoying. The first time around, the officer had a very serious face and checked my luggage but after handing me back my documents, started talking. He told me that he had tried to travel north but was stopped at the Mexican border. I unfortunately am not sure if he meant at the southern or northern border. He basically indicated that he was handcuffed. There is no way for someone in his position to travel to the US, even as a tourist.

The second time, I was told I had crossed a yellow line. I had overtaken some vehicles right ahead of this but definitely in a section where the line was broken so I was vehement in my defense. There was a short section where there was as solid yellow line several hundred meters back and I frankly don't recall whether I was passing there or not but it's clear that there was no way that the officers could see that from where they were standing. One of the cops actually jumped into the car and we drove there to see this section of road. I kept saying I understood the law, that I was allowed to cross at the broken lines, not the solid one, etc. and was pretty animated about it. After twenty minutes of this, they finally gave me back my AAA driver license. I am not really sure why they let me go since they never asked for a bribe, just wanted to send me to the bank to pay the fine. Perhaps because I was so adamant? Who knows...

I found a nice hotel 3 blocks from the center of town, <a href="http://hoteljericogranada.com/enus/we.html">Hotel Jerico</a> for $25 ($30 with A/C but it's not necessary). It sits on a wide street called Calle La Calzada with lots of restaurants between the hotel and the Cathedral.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4924705951/" title="SDC13027 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4924705951_90c542e443.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13027" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4924706361/" title="SDC13028 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4924706361_43bc00f2ec.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13028" /></a>
Nicaragua is the first country on this trip where I have seen a lot of horse drawn carriages on the road, not just for tourists as in this case. A lot of them are really emaciated...

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4925302082/" title="SDC13029 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4925302082_9eae907a5b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13029" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4925302470/" title="SDC13030 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4097/4925302470_d7b3b942ea.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13030" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4924707613/" title="SDC13031 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4924707613_4e68674ba6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13031" /></a>
The Cathedral.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4925303606/" title="SDC13033 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4925303606_4e164620d3.jpg" width="500" height="338" alt="SDC13033" /></a>

On to the market area.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4925304342/" title="SDC13035 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4925304342_8cd2cc2330.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13035" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4925304642/" title="SDC13036 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4925304642_0008869d9d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13036" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4924710077/" title="SDC13038 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4924710077_75257d7df5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13038" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4925305734/" title="SDC13039 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/4925305734_f9777e0662.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13039" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4925306528/" title="SDC13040 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4925306528_1753d4aa48.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13040" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4925307180/" title="SDC13041 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4925307180_b41fc1f053.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13041" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4924712725/" title="SDC13043 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/4924712725_0a3f9392ef.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13043" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4924713163/" title="SDC13044 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4924713163_e7b15cd105.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13044" /></a>
Cheese from the back of a pickup truck.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4925316676/" title="SDC13045 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4925316676_3227e06e19.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13045" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4924721607/" title="SDC13047 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4924721607_045b2b0218.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="SDC13047" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4925317394/" title="SDC13048 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4925317394_7166593758.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="SDC13048" /></a>
Making hammocks.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evermore/4924722239/" title="SDC13049 by evermore, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4924722239_e8b26bfb08.jpg" width="500" height="435" alt="SDC13049" /></a>

Not sure yet what my plan is for tomorrow. The climate here is definitely better and it seems like an easy town to stay in. Other destinations in Nicaragua include Isla Ometepe, two volcanoes in Lake Nicaragua, and San Juan del Sur, a beach town.
 
Cdgskater said:
Finally discovered this thread and it took my two days to read it all! I'm loving every minute of it. Very easy to read and the photos are fantastic! Keep it up and ride safe...
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'm definitely a photowhore so i'm not sure if I include too many of them in the posts or not.
 
Glad you found it.. it is really a great thread.. and fun to follow..

I threw this little banner up on the site linked to the thread.
Hope many more are enjoying the stories and the photo's!

:thumbup

:smoking
 

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  • barf epic thread.GIF
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^^That banner is how I found this thread! Nice work!

And no evermore, I don't think you're including too many photos...its the perfect amount
 
agreed. ^^^^^

as for the cops pulling you over, yes, it's the same experience we had, the further south you go, the more you might get harassed. keep your cool, don't raise your voice, and be firm about your stance.

also be careful, when they send you to the bank, to make a "payment", they could very easily be facilitating you to be making a deposit into an account of their own. ;)

the scam at the southern border of Nicaragua is pretty slick, and you have to pay close attention to see what's actually going on. but watch the fixers and the process. :)

you're doing awesome man, and more photos is always better. :D
 
also, maybe crossposting a specific thread asking about the sputtering problem in advriding and maybe in supermoto section might get you some better answers from those that frequent these bikes? :dunno

link to this thread so they can get the good explanations?
 
this thread is AWESOME! need to make this over 100 posts otherwise takes for ever for me to load with these settings here.
 
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