• There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

San Jose Craigslist Inspection

That's big$ for a 13 yr old bike.

Pretty sure I've seen new gen 675 not far off from that price
 
Last edited:
Looks a bit expensive. I sold a 4 year old gsxr1000 with less miles for that price.

Dude says valves were checked at 12K. That doesn't mean they're not in need of an adjustment now.
 
FXCLM5 said:
That's big$ for a 13 yr old bike.

Pretty sure I've seen new gen 675 not far off from that price
Click to expand...

When you say not far off how much are you talking? The cheapest I have seen new gen 675s going for is 7k which is like ~40% more. If you can point me in the right direction I would love a newer gen 675. But for the most part, all the 06-09 675s on craigslist in my area are anywhere from 4-6k so this is right in the middle.
 
Blankpage said:
Looks a bit expensive. I sold a 4 year old gsxr1000 with less miles for that price.

Dude says valves were checked at 12K. That doesn't mean they're not in need of an adjustment now.
Click to expand...

Im not interested in a 1000cc bike at the moment, I have seen some of them listed cheaper than their respective 600cc in the area. But for the most part this bike isnt that much more expensive than the Jap 600s between '06-'10 and cheaper in a lot of cases. It seems the price for a 600 on CL right now is 4.5-6k for the older ones such as this.

I really like the 675 so dont really want a similar year Jap 600 but if I can get a '13 or newer for the same price I could be convinced, I just haven't seen anything.
 
Also, the KBB value is ~4.8k so I feel like this seems somewhat reasonable/normal?
 
RyanR said:
Are you able to provide a source that has a comprehensive checklist?
Click to expand...

Yes. Google "used motorcycle inspection checklist" and grab one the matches your level of knowledge ;)

This one is the most comprehensive one I've seen but it goes beyond most people's ability to execute. I had a buyer attempt to use it once. He was able to do 25-30% of the checks himself and even that took more than an hour. This is probably more thorough than the pre-purchase inspection most mechanics would do:

http://www.clarity.net/adam/buying-bike.html

Personally, I'd use something a bit more practical, like the BikeEXIF checklist that was previously posted:

http://www.bikeexif.com/how-to-buy-a-motorcycle
 
295566 said:
That bike's been listed for a while. It's a nice bike, but obviously not worth that much.
Click to expand...

I guess I'll go check it out and see what I think. I can always offer less and see if they bite and if not then I can keep looking.
 
Its due for a valve adj. I'd check on the cost of that first before I'd commit and judge accordingly. Its not something that can be ignored.
 
I'll get an idea of what that'll cost.
I have found a 2014 675 for around 7k, has 8k miles, does that seems like a much better deal, will have to save a little more cash but I could make it work.
 
Depends on your budget and what you're looking for.
Personally I won't buy any used bike with more than a few thousand miles and below market value.
That might mean waiting a bit longer than usual for those killer deals.
 
Blankpage said:
Depends on your budget and what you're looking for.
Personally I won't buy any used bike with more than a few thousand miles and below market value.
That might mean waiting a bit longer than usual for those killer deals.
Click to expand...

I can afford either of them but at the end of the day I'm like everyone else and want to most for my money. I just need to decide if I think the newer bike is worth it.
 
kbb minus 1k easy, been the selling price for high volume bikes private party for me.

keep looking, that bike is pretty old and should sell imo under 3k, buyer should just part it out and let it go stock.
 
A lot of used bikes seemed to be over priced in the Bay Area. And they will sit unsold for a long time. I don't check CL very often but I usually see the same R6 for sale when I do. It's been nearly 2 years since I noticed it.

There is a bike for sale here on BARF that was way overpriced to start. It's price has slowly come down but now it is 2.5 half years later so it's worth less now anyway. Had the owner asked for what it was actually worth at the time it originally listed, probably would have sold in a few weeks. If it ever sells the owner will have taken a rather unnecessary beating.
 
ejv said:
A lot of used bikes seemed to be over priced in the Bay Area. And they will sit unsold for a long time. I don't check CL very often but I usually see the same R6 for sale when I do. It's been nearly 2 years since I noticed it.

There is a bike for sale here on BARF that was way overpriced to start. It's price has slowly come down but now it is 2.5 half years later so it's worth less now anyway. Had the owner asked for what it was actually worth at the time it originally listed, probably would have sold in a few weeks. If it ever sells the owner will have taken a rather unnecessary beating.
Click to expand...

So you agree that you should be looking at something similar to the above, ~1k less than kbb?
 
RyanR said:
So you agree that you should be looking at something similar to the above, ~1k less than kbb?
Click to expand...

Generalizations like that are often wrong, especially since the prices in KBB and NADA have no correlation with Bay Area reality as far as I can tell.

I usually opt for something like this:

  • Do some research on Craig's List to get a feel for what the asking prices are for models that are similar to the one you want to buy. "Similar" means the same generation, same year +- 1-2 years (as long as generation doesn't change), and same mileage +- a few thousand miles.
  • Contact the sellers you've identified via email to see if they're legit. Ask some basic questions that require more than a Yes/No answer. Anyone who insists you call or text them is likely some sort of phone scam. Anyone who can't provide answers that sound legit (ex: more than 2-3 words) is likely a scam. Eliminate the scammers and you've now got a list of asking prices from legitimate sellers.
  • You'll probably come up with a wide range of asking prices, say $4000-7000. Your goal is to buy a better than average bike for a reasonable price.
When making an offer, you need to take the differences in bikes into account. Our hypothetical $7000 seller probably isn't going to sell for $4000 if their bike is years newer than the $4K bike, has brand-new tires, has a warranty (factory or extended), a recent service, or half as many miles. A better bike legitimately deserves a better price! So how do you know what to offer? Look at the differences between the lowest-priced bike you'd consider buying and the one you actually want to buy then decide how much the differences are worth to you!

Let's walk through an example:

- The bike you're considering, a 2006 for $5300: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/mcy/d/san-jose-2006-triumph-daytona-675/6865519753.html

- The cheapest similar 675 on CL: a 2007 for $4000: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/d/livermore-daytona/6868131664.html

Not many details on the 2007, so it might be a scam, but let's assume that: it's legit, it's in decent mechanical condition, and that everything not explicitly mentioned is stock. I'd start with the $4K base price of the 2007 and figure out how much I'd pay to get the stuff that makes the 2006 better. These prices are examples of what I'd be willing to pay. Remember: everyone else will probably come up with completely different prices!

  • Our base price is $4000
  • The 2006 has 17.5K miles while the 2007 has 36K miles. That's a huge difference! I'd be willing to pay $750 to get a bike with half as many miles, so we're up to $4750
  • The 2007 bike is missing a "right side infill" panel. Doesn't sound super-important but I'd pay an extra $50 to have it, do we're up to $4800
  • Both bikes have aftermarket exhausts. I'd rather have stock, so no change there
  • The 2006 bike has a Shorai battery and charger. I'd pay $50 for that, so we're up to $4850
  • I like the red color scheme of the 2007 over the scorched yellow of the 2006 bike. That's -$100 for me, so back down to $4750
  • The carbon wrap and seat cowl on the 2006 looks kinda cool and I'd pay $100 for them, so back up to $4850
  • The 2006 bike has a bunch of mods I wouldn't want (Saddleman seat, integrated LED taillight) and a few I would (TechSpec tank grips, PowerCommander, updated regulator/rectifier). Let's call that +$100 for the 2006 bike so we're up to $4950
  • The 2006 bike has better suspension components, but the chances are they'd probably need to be resprung or revalved to work for me so not worth much to me. The aftermarket stuff is probably easier to work on though. Guess I'd be willing to pay $100 for it, so we're up to $5050
So, there you go: I might be willing to go as high as $5050 for the bike you're looking at. With that price in mind, I'd go take a look at the bike and adjust my price accordingly. Maybe all of the upgrades are really terrific and the suspension components work perfectly for me, so I'd be willing to pay a a few hundred more than $5050. Maybe the PowerCommander tune is awful or the suspension setup is so terrible I'd need an immediate revalve. In those cases I'd adjust downward from my $5050 target price.

Most Craig's List sellers price their bikes a bit high so they have room too negotiate. A 5-10% margin ($265-530 for the 2006 bike) seems to be pretty common, which means that our $5050 price target is likely within range of what the seller would accept.

For comparison, the NADA suggested retail price on a 2006 is $2710 (assuming no mods) and the KBB price is $4820. Lopping $1000 off either of those prices is a pipe dream...
 
Thanks for the detailed run down. I was thinking something similar given the area and that I haven't seen bike for as cheap as some have been suggesting. I am looking at it tomorrow and will make a judgement call then.
 
ive sold all of these late model bikes: 06 fz6, 08 gsxr 750, 07 gsxr 1000, 06 cbr 600rr, 11 zx10r, 13 zx6r and like 3x 09 r1's

they all always well below kbb. 1k+/- is the norm imo

ppl crazy telling you to go after this bike lol
 
Last edited:
FXCLM5 said:
ive sold all of these late model bikes: 06 fz6, 08 gsxr 750, 07 gsxr 1000, 06 cbr 600rr, 11 zx10r, 13 zx6r and like 3x 09 r1's

they all always well below kbb. 1k+/- is the norm imo

ppl crazy telling you to go after this bike lol
Click to expand...

Yeah, those are all Japanese bikes though. There are a bunch of them that are cheaper. I dont really want a Japanese bike because I like the triumph and it's also a lot lot cheaper to insure, which more than makes up for the difference in price.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top