Tips on buying a bike on the used market?

[Smash Allen]

Damn, that seems like a killer deal to me.

Yes it does, I'm curious what he's looking to replace it with.

I still owe 8k on my niner's note! Glad I got gap insurance and am planning on riding it into the ground..

OP seriously just pick up the 09 for $6k and be done with it

 

[NSR500]

A lot of good advice covered. My .02:

- Check for bent steering stops
- I factor a fluid change, belts, chains, brake pads, and valves into my budget when looking unless the previous owner has recent receipts and service records that I can verify

 

[El Feo]

Lots of great advice.

Safest thing to look for is all stock with low miles, if you don't know what to look for.

Also, it sounds stoopid, but look at the rear sprocket for cleanliness and maintenance. It's a simple litmus and reflection of care.

But, snap. That FZ09 w/ the penske? Umm.. yeah.

 

[Lunch Box]

I have the same shock on my FJ-09 and it absolutely transformed the bike.

 

[ScottRNelson]

I have never been turned down for a test ride myself. As I recall, didn't you admit to taking off on an extended test ride without telling the guy, Scott?

I took a couple of test rides that were a little bit long back in the 70's. More than 35 years ago.

I've never abused anything on a test ride or test drive and try to respect the vehicle, especially new ones.

I don't have to go very far on a bike to learn all that I need to about it. A couple of miles maybe and not more than 10 minutes.

 

[dittoalex]

Lowball everyone with a "$xxxx cash tomorrow," you'll get amazing deals.

 

[DTM74]

I'm selling my FZ-09 for 6k. Has a Penske 8983 double clicker shock on it (worth 1k). Has 6,XXX miles on it. Immaculate condition. Never been down. I am the original owner. Has a brand new Pirelli Angel GT rear tire on it.

Buy this. /thread.

 

[slowblood]

Tip of the Day on Motorcyclist Way of Buying Used:

1. Big High
2. Sell Low
2.1 Sell Even Lower
2.2 Sell Even Even Lower
3. Pull Ad
4. Bitch About Craigslist, BARF and how cheap motorcyclist are

 

[Sportbiker]

Patience. One thing is that you will find people lie big time. I went and checked out a bike last weekend and the guy assured me on the phone that the bike was tipped in the garage against the wall. I get there (50 miles away, ready to buy) and find that the bike has been f'ing crashed big time. The handle bars are tweaked. There is even dirt trapped inside the blinker.

2 days later I check out a Z1000. On the phone he says it is a clean bike. Go see it in person, the f'ing thing is barely hanging on to life. Even the brakeslights don't work. Repainted shit. Decals all in the wrong places. Seat doesn't even have bolts on.

Best way to deal is to say thank you and walk away. No point in educating idiots.

On the other hand, I bought a bike from New Mexico and one from Oregon. Great people. The bike was in better condition that they claimed.

Point I'm trying to make is, evaluate the owner as much as the bike itself.

 

[Aeroslash]

Point I'm trying to make is, evaluate the owner as much as the bike itself.

True. Also if the posted pics are garbage, ask the seller to send you hi res pics.

Will help test if they are a straight shooter and also cut thru a lot of the bullshit.

A picture is worth a thousand words blah blah....

Then again, the seller could be a not so tech savvy geezer with an immaculate bike...so go figure.

 

[Spartan925]

If possible, have a buddy come with you, especially if they know about bikes. I've done this in the past and it has helped in a few ways.

1. No worries about finding a way to get the bike home. They take you there and you either have a way to get home if the deal doesn't work out and no car to worry about should it go through.

2. A second, impartial set of eyes on the bike. You may be biased due to excitement about getting a new bike, so the friend can be your unbiased center to fall back on and may notice thing you don't or things you may see but may think you can live with. I was excited to buy a bike form a guy on CL, had cash in hand but back out due to some stuff my friend noticed.

3. They can help with negotiating or getting info from the seller. I went on a short down the block test ride on that same CL bike and while I did so, my friend was there with the seller getting all sorts of info that ultimately helped me decide to exit stage left. He had also talked to the guy about price and had I decided to buy it I would have had some extra $ in my pocket.

I'll also second what's been said about people being misleading. This same CL guy had the bike listed as in"Excellent condition" but upon seeing it, the crack in the exhaust, scratched paint and he admitted that he had never changed any fluids and "just rides it."

 

[nebulous]

I usually don't bring money the first time to look at a bike. I look, listen and talk to the owner. If the bike passes the smell test, I get a test ride within a day or two.

One seller asked to meet in a place that turned out to be very isolated. I stopped for two minutes, thank the seller and left quickly. If I had it to do over I would not have stopped.

Don't meet anyone down by the docks after dark.

 

[tuxumino]

decide on bike or bikes you want to buy
research them
decide on budget
have a checklist
check out bikes
test ride the ones that look promising

I generally don't take money the first time I view a bike and then bring money the second time for a test ride.

just because a used bike is at a dealership doesn't mean you don't have to check it out thoroughly, especially as they probably won't let you test ride it.

 

[Climber]

1st rule of buying off of Craigslist: If you get a bad feeling about the bike, walk away from it, don't over-rule your instincts.
2nd rule, check for signs of it being a stunt bike. Check if back sprocket is larger than stock, check for things missing or signs of a cage.
3rd rule, meet in a public place in case they are really trying to rob you because they know you'll come with cash.
4th rule, if it sounds too good to be true, then virtually every single time it is.

My

 

[davidji]

3rd rule, meet in a public place in case they are really trying to rob you because they know you'll come with cash.
4th rule, if it sounds too good to be true, then virtually every single time it is.

For the most part I agree, but
3. I don't like to meet the first time with cash on me. Usually I can come back later to make the purchase.
4. Sometimes it's just priced to sell, and sold later that same day. I'm sure it would be hard to get one of the priced to sell bikes without showing up with cash. Haven't gotten one of those yet. By the time I have time to look, they've sold.

 

[aminalmutha]

I haven't sold every vehicle I've listed on CL in a day or less, but it's happened. Without getting lowballed.

In my experience, however, the first guy to show up with money has always got the bike/car/truck. No one has ever showed up without money and I've never showed a vehicle to more than one individual in person. I've got calls/txts/emails like a muthafukka, but serious buyers are prompt, have money and don't fuck around. Lowballers and tire kickers don't generally show up.

You show up without money, you are wasting your and the seller's time and you'll almost certainly not get it.

Then again, I'm not talking about really high end vintage/antique/collector stuff here, but I don't think anyone is in this thread.

CL... you have to be prepared to make a decision on the spot. Dick around and you'll never get anything.



On the flip side, as a buyer, I have walked away from multiple vehicles on CL because very often times the vehicle does not match the description in the ad or over the phone. I've also been quick to snatch up good stuff when I see it.

 

[Climber]

I haven't sold every vehicle I've listed on CL in a day or less, but it's happened. Without getting lowballed.

In my experience, however, the first guy to show up with money has always got the bike/car/truck. No one has ever showed up without money and I've never showed a vehicle to more than one individual in person. I've got calls/txts/emails like a muthafukka, but serious buyers are prompt, have money and don't fuck around. Lowballers and tire kickers don't generally show up.

You show up without money, you are wasting your and the seller's time and you'll almost certainly not get it.

Then again, I'm not talking about really high end vintage/antique/collector stuff here, but I don't think anyone is in this thread.

CL... you have to be prepared to make a decision on the spot. Dick around and you'll never get anything.



On the flip side, as a buyer, I have walked away from multiple vehicles on CL because very often times the vehicle does not match the description in the ad or over the phone. I've also been quick to snatch up good stuff when I see it.

Truth.

If you're buying, a really good deal will be gone in about an hour if it's an item that enough other people are interested in.

Good sellers answer the phone right away and are ready to sell when the add goes on to the first person to show up with cash. A promise doesn't mean anything, too many flakes out there.

 

[Cincinnatus]

I'm selling my FZ-09 for 6k. Has a Penske 8983 double clicker shock on it (worth 1k). Has 6,XXX miles on it. Immaculate condition. Never been down. I am the original owner. Has a brand new Pirelli Angel GT rear tire on it.

Jeff's second pic is all the bikes he's owned in the last 3 years...

 

[mrabe]

Looking to buy a 1998 Honda shadow from Craigslist in a few hours, here's the checklists I found and modified to use for my pre-purchase inspection:

Motorcycle Safety Foundation T-CLOS inspection check list:
http://www.msf-usa.org/downloads/T-CLOCS_Inspection_Checklist.pdf

List modified from similar thread at http://www.motorcycleforum.com/showthread.php?t=97790:

Used Motorcycle Checklist

Make: ________________________________ Year: _________________
Model: _______________________________ N.A.D.A.: _______________
Milage: _____________
VIN: _________________________________________________
https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck for stolen bikes (free)
http://www.titlecheck.us/ for title check ($4.95)
Owner: ______________________________ Phone: __________________ Address: _____________________________
KBB Retail: ______________
Asking price: ___________

Note:

• Ask seller to leave engine cold so you can test a cold start up,
• Bring a friend with motorcycle experience (or a mechanic),
• Consider the seller: clean garage, not sketchy, has records, etc.

Overall Condition/Impression:

1. Check fluid levels – condition, color, smell, levels (proper levels indicate proper/regular maintenance)
__a. Oil – Smell the oil cap. If it smells burnt, the oil hasn't been
changed often enough.
____i. Smell the oil fill hole. It should not smell like gas.
__b. brake fluid - If it is dark, it hasn't been changed often enough, indicates poor maintenance history
__c. coolant levels.
__d. Rust in gas tank (don’t operate or you risk sending debris through engine, indicates you’ll be cleaning the carbs frequently)
2. Tires- often neglected, add to price of bike quickly
__a. brittle or cracked,
__b. no nails, plugs, or flat spots.
__c. tread depth
3. Chain/belt drive
__a. Rusty chains – needs replacement,
__b. Chain slack / at max adjustment
____i. can chain be pulled from sprocket
__c. Kinks in the chain
__d. Smooth movement when spinning - put it on a rear stand and spin back tire; Properly lubed chains = free of rust, smooth movement.
__e. Sprocket – check for overall wear, missing or damaged teeth, uneven wear on sides of teeth (indicating misaligned rear wheel or poor chain adjustment)
4. Frame
__a. Marks/scratches from drops or crashes?
__b. Bent or out of alignment (back of bike lines up with rear tire?)
__c. Starter cover or clutch cover have scratches or racing replacements or touchup paint - indicates dropped or raced.
__d. Forks - check for leaks or cracked seals
__e. VIN numbers on engine and frame (usually by/on front fork) match
5. Brakes
__a. Check wear on disk brake pads
__b. Wear indicator pointer on drum brakes.
__c. Drag on brakes after applying brakes? Sticking calipers, rubbing pads?
6. Fairings
__a. Aligned/matched
__b. Different colors or ages = replacements from crash possibly
__c. Beware "custom" or new paint jobs, bondo = possibly from crash
__d. Naked, bobbed, chopped, street fighter now, but originally had fairings = possibly removed after damaged.
7. Handle bars
__a. Ends scraped = possible downed bike.
__b. Turn both ways as far as possible – should be some clearance on the gas tank.
__c. Levers move freely and the throttle is smooth both ways
8. Pegs
__a. Scrapped or replaced = possibly downed bike (sport bikes with scrapes only on ends may be less concerning from “dragging a knee”)
9. Electronics
__a. Lights and blinkers work,
__b. Battery condition (and wires leading to it) –
10. Forks-
__a. true and straight.
__b. Fork seals leaks, any oil coming out of them indicates costly replacement.
____i. Fork oil leaked down to brakes = costly brake rebuild
11. On the bike
__a. Before riding, is exhaust coming out of both mufflers strong and equal?
____i. Bluing on the exhaust? Indicates high heat
__b. Rub the muffler outlet. If you get a lot of black on your
finger, it's probably an oil burner.
__c. Depending on skill/comfort level, release bars briefly @ 20-30 mph to check for straight drive (alignment)
__d. Excessive shaking or noises while riding
__e. Brake effectiveness (front and back independently)
__f. Acceleration in each gear
__g. Request seller not have bike warmed up – listen to bike at cold start
__i. Feel exhaust pipes on cold start – does one heat up faster than the other (indicator of carb issues or cylinder adjustment need)
__h. Once at operating temp, ensure doesn’t overheat and (if included) radiator fan engages
12. ASK A LOT OF QUESTIONS
__a. How long have you owned the bike?
__b. What problems are you aware of?
__c. Last maintenance for:
____i. Oil
____ii. Carbs
____iii. Valve adjustment, etc
__d. Passes inspections (if applicable)?
__e. Ever been down, or dropped, crashed?
__f. why are you selling,
__g. is it paid off/is there a lien or do you have a clear title.

 

[corndog67]

Looking to buy a 1998 Honda shadow from Craigslist in a few hours, here's the checklists I found and modified to use for my pre-purchase inspection:

Motorcycle Safety Foundation T-CLOS inspection check list:
http://www.msf-usa.org/downloads/T-CLOCS_Inspection_Checklist.pdf

List modified from similar thread at http://www.motorcycleforum.com/showthread.php?t=97790:

Used Motorcycle Checklist

Make: ________________________________ Year: _________________
Model: _______________________________ N.A.D.A.: _______________
Milage: _____________
VIN: _________________________________________________
https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck for stolen bikes (free)
http://www.titlecheck.us/ for title check ($4.95)
Owner: ______________________________ Phone: __________________ Address: _____________________________
KBB Retail: ______________
Asking price: ___________

Note: make sure engine is cold- want to test cold start

Overall Condition/Impression:

1. Check fluid levels – condition, color, smell, levels (proper levels indicate proper/regular maintenance)
__a. Oil – Smell the oil cap. If it smells burnt, the oil hasn't been
changed often enough.
____i. Smell the oil fill hole. It should not smell like gas.
__b. brake fluid - If it is dark, it hasn't been changed often enough, indicates poor maintenance history
__c. coolant levels.
__d. Rust in gas tank (don’t operate or you risk sending debris through engine, indicates you’ll be cleaning the carbs frequently)
2. Tires- often neglected, add to price of bike quickly
__a. brittle or cracked,
__b. no nails, plugs, or flat spots.
__c. tread depth
3. Chain/belt drive
__a. Rusty chains – needs replacement,
__b. Chain slack / at max adjustment
____i. can chain be pulled from sprocket
__c. Kinks in the chain
__d. Smooth movement when spinning - put it on a rear stand and spin back tire; Properly lubed chains = free of rust, smooth movement.
__e. Sprocket – check for overall wear, missing or damaged teeth, uneven wear on sides of teeth (indicating misaligned rear wheel or poor chain adjustment)
4. Frame
__a. Marks/scratches from drops or crashes?
__b. Bent or out of alignment (back of bike lines up with rear tire?)
__c. Starter cover or clutch cover have scratches or racing replacements or touchup paint - indicates dropped or raced.
__d. Forks - check for leaks or cracked seals
__e. VIN numbers on engine and frame (usually by/on front fork) match
5. Brakes
__a. Check wear on disk brake pads
__b. Wear indicator pointer on drum brakes.
__c. Drag on brakes after applying brakes? Sticking calipers, rubbing pads?
6. Fairings
__a. Aligned/matched
__b. Different colors or ages = replacements from crash possibly
__c. Beware "custom" or new paint jobs, bondo = possibly from crash
__d. Naked, bobbed, chopped, street fighter now, but originally had fairings = possibly removed after damaged.
7. Handle bars
__a. Ends scraped = possible downed bike.
__b. Turn both ways as far as possible – should be some clearance on the gas tank.
__c. Levers move freely and the throttle is smooth both ways
8. Pegs
__a. Scrapped or replaced = possibly downed bike (sport bikes with scrapes only on ends may be less concerning from “dragging a knee”)
9. Electronics
__a. Lights and blinkers work,
__b. Battery condition (and wires leading to it) –
10. Forks-
__a. true and straight.
__b. Fork seals leaks, any oil coming out of them indicates costly replacement.
____i. Fork oil leaked down to brakes = costly brake rebuild
11. On the bike
__a. Before riding, is exhaust coming out of both mufflers strong and equal?
____i. Bluing on the exhaust? Indicates high heat
__b. Rub the muffler outlet. If you get a lot of black on your
finger, it's probably an oil burner.
__c. Depending on skill/comfort level, release bars briefly @ 20-30 mph to check for straight drive (alignment)
__d. Excessive shaking or noises while riding
__e. Brake effectiveness (front and back independently)
__f. Acceleration in each gear
__g. Request seller not have bike warmed up – listen to bike at cold start
__i. Feel exhaust pipes on cold start – does one heat up faster than the other (indicator of carb issues or cylinder adjustment need)
__h. Once at operating temp, ensure doesn’t overheat and (if included) radiator fan engages
12. ASK A LOT OF QUESTIONS
__a. How long have you owned the bike?
__b. What problems are you aware of?
__c. Last maintenance for:
____i. Oil
____ii. Carbs
____iii. Valve adjustment, etc
__d. Passes inspections (if applicable)?
__e. Ever been down, or dropped, crashed?
__f. why are you selling,
__g. is it paid off/is there a lien or do you have a clear title.

Too much stuff.

Take someone with you that knows what they are looking at. Find a dealer nearby, that will do a pre-purchase inspection for you, on your dime. If you don't know what you are looking at, you would just be guessing about wear and condition and what is acceptable or not. Seriously, get someone that knows motorcycles to look with you. I know it is Sunday and most shops are closed, but be careful. If you aren't sure of what you are looking at, they will know immediately.