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voltage issues

myblunt said:
I don't really think there's an issue or that we're not getting the right symptoms.
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Yeah, but you think over 15 charging volts is OK for a 12 volt lead/acid battery, so...

I dunno. He says he's burning up batteries, has high charging voltage and all grounds and connections are good. I just go with what's put out there. If that's all true, he has a bad regulator.
 
Motech said:
Yeah, but you think over 15 charging volts is OK for a 12 volt lead/acid battery, so...

I dunno. He says he's burning up batteries, has high charging voltage and all grounds and connections are good. I just go with what's put out there. If that's all true, he has a bad regulator.
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so you're entitled to think that I'm wrong and when the technical manual backs up my theory your ignorance shows when you stutter out with "suzuki might be covering their ass or something".

All this means is that you won't believe me. It doesn't necessarily mean that you're right.

Are you trying to tell me that his motorcycle has a battery in it that is 12v? Most motorcycles have a running voltage of 14.5v. and if you put a 3% tolerance on that its 14.9v. so whats your point? charging voltage is depenant on the internal resistance of the battery. 15 volts is fine. especially if the manual calls out for 15.5 volts as the high specification.

Take it for what its worth, and don't listen to a technical expert from the electrical field. Battery chargers work on the principle of magic fwiw. if you let the smoke out they stop working.

i'm not your son. bro.

Also, if thats what 'letting me off easy' is called, well sir, who died and made you king?

I pose the theory that he isn't burning up the batteries. He really doesn't know whats happening to his batteries. the bike is just dead in the morning, and he keeps throwing parts at it and nothing works.
 
myblunt said:
so you're entitled to think that I'm wrong and when the technical manual backs up my theory your ignorance shows when you stutter out with "suzuki might be covering their ass or something".

All this means is that you won't believe me. It doesn't necessarily mean that you're right.

Are you trying to tell me that his motorcycle has a battery in it that is 12v? Most motorcycles have a running voltage of 14.5v. and if you put a 3% tolerance on that its 14.9v. so whats your point? charging voltage is depenant on the internal resistance of the battery. 15 volts is fine. especially if the manual calls out for 15.5 volts as the high specification.

Take it for what its worth, and don't listen to a technical expert from the electrical field. Battery chargers work on the principle of magic fwiw. if you let the smoke out they stop working.

i'm not your son. bro.

Also, if thats what 'letting me off easy' is called, well sir, who died and made you king?

I pose the theory that he isn't burning up the batteries. He really doesn't know whats happening to his batteries. the bike is just dead in the morning, and he keeps throwing parts at it and nothing works.
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"Technical expert from the electrical field"? What's that mean, you work at Radio Shack?

Dude, you are the only person with claimed knowledge I have ever spoken with who thinks 15.2 volts is an acceptable charging rate for a 12 volt system. That kind of voltage is excessive and will cook batteries, period, I don't care WHAT you say Suzuki says. They are historically the builders of some of the least developed electronic engine control systems this side of South Korea in the first place, and the company that just recalled over 73,000 motorcycles for faulty RR units in the second.

I've been respectful to you because I'm the FNG here, don't know you from Adam, but you're surely not endearing yourself to any continued levels of respect. Do your homework before you start publicly spitting turds at a guy who obviously knows a little bit more than you do about such matters.
 
Motech said:
"Technical expert from the electrical field"? What's that mean, you work at Radio Shack?

Dude, you are the only person with claimed knowledge I have ever spoken with who thinks 15.2 volts is an acceptable charging rate for a 12 volt system. That kind of voltage is excessive and will cook batteries, period, I don't care WHAT you say Suzuki says. They are historically the builders of some of the least developed electronic engine control systems this side of South Korea in the first place, and the company that just recalled over 73,000 motorcycles for faulty RR units in the second.

I've been respectful to you because I'm the FNG here, don't know you from Adam, but you're surely not endearing yourself to any continued levels of respect. Do your homework before you start publicly spitting turds at a guy who obviously knows a little bit more than you do about such matters.
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well that just seems to be the point... I'm also a FNG here and you making assumptions about my work history and background isn't really cutting it. I haven't jumped to conclusions about your qualifications but it is just as easy for me to say something about you working at radio shack.

For the record...

Suzuki says some regulator / rectifier assemblies were produced with insufficient adhesion between the power module (circuit board) and the rectifier case that contains a heat sink to dissipate heat.

Due to the insufficient adhesion, heat generated on the power module circuit board can cause the circuit board to deform, and lift off the case.

This condition causes excessive heat on the circuit board and uncontrolled electric current output which can result in insufficient charging current being provided to the motorcycle battery.

This can cause the discharge of the Suzuki motorcycle's battery, which can lead to stalling or a non-start condition; if the motorcycle's engine stalls, it could increase the risk of a crash.

and also. this doesn't really cause overcharging of the battery.

Oh and another thing. The OP has already changed his rectifier. twice. with aftermarket ones as well as going back to a OEM version.

So I'm not trying to spit turds at you but that radio shack thing, thats a good one.

and 15volts is just fine.

All I'm getting here is that you really think you're smarter than me or something.

sorry about the beemer comment. thought we could rub elbows and be friends but apparently not.
 
It that an olive branch... Bluntman? If so, accepted.

I'm sorry you're offended, but fact is no matter where you got your information, it's wrong. 15.2 charging volts for a 12 volt lead/acid starting battery is too high, end of that story. It's usually OK for a fast charge, but not sustained. Is something else going on? Something we don't know? Maybe. Maybe too OP got a bad batch of regulators. It happens. But with the information provided here, it is what it is.

Peace.
 
Motech said:
It that an olive branch... Bluntman? If so, accepted.

I'm sorry you're offended, but fact is no matter where you got your information, it's wrong. 15.2 charging volts for a 12 volt lead/acid starting battery is too high, end of that story. It's usually OK for a fast charge, but not sustained. Is something else going on? Something we don't know? Maybe. Maybe too OP got a bad batch of regulators. It happens. But with the information provided here, it is what it is.

Peace.
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yeah, if anything, i'll drink to that... :staRang
 
turkishdelight said:
2006 gsxr 600 idling at 14.6v volts. when revd it drops slightly to about 14.2v but once u let off it goes up to about 14.8v sometimes 15v at idle and takes several minutes to drop back to about 14.6v..which im being told is way to high and can fry the charging system and battery. rectifyer has been replaced( tried 2 different ones both brand new) new stator, new battery. the only aftermarket eletrical parts would be a power commander. the grounds are all good as well. ?
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Ok I think we are all getting off subject the op stated that the 15v charging was temporary , stated for several minutes. I mean according to the original post. Never stated how long several minutes is. I work in the electrical field and a charging voltage that high for a short period of time is not bad. I checked my r6 and it did the same thing. I am not frying batteries. I am not on anyone side here I just think we are not helping by arguing with each other.


So in conclusion what is happening to the bike that lead you to start checking the voltages of the stator in the first place. Something happened that lead you here and I think that the people helping you check out this problem have been misinformed which has lead to a lot "shotgun Diagnoses" lets find out what happened that lead you to checking output voltages in the first place. was a battery dead and would not charge what was the first problem that reared its ugly head? What is still happening, is the battery dead after an overnight sit, or dead after a ride, how long was the ride? Is all the electrical system on? Do you have an ipod hook up the bike? (sorry ran into this problem before had to put it in). Is there an alarm on the bike? I know you stated that there are no aftermarket parts on the bike now. Does that mean you took out the power commander? Just asking.

Again as stated DVOM's take reading as averages. You are seeing a drop in voltage with your DVOM and then a rise in Voltage. With a DVOM the voltages you see may not be happening at the time you see them. So the rise in voltage may occur at high RPMs and show when the throttle is let off. Think of a DVOM as working on a delay. The only DVOM's that do not work this way are the needle type which is just a VOM.
 
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turkishdelight said:
every single part n the charging system has been replaced and replaced again.. the grounds are all good. and there are no aftermarket eltrical parts on the bike. it is not blowing fuses either. sooo?
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Wait a minute... You're in Santa Cruz? How'd I miss that? Call me, we'll figure this shit out right quick man.

Motech
831-345-3965
 
turkishdelight said:
alright im working today so i will either give you a buzz later today or tomorrow.
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Cool. That's my business mobile line, I might not answer on the weekend, but if you text me I'll get right back pretty quick.
 
the bike is doing something else buggy. when i get on it at high rpm say 8000rpm + it will hesitate, jerk and sometimes flat out shut off the engine. the FI comes on. im going to try and get it to throw the code today and have the shop pull the code.
 
turkishdelight said:
the bike is doing something else buggy. when i get on it at high rpm say 8000rpm + it will hesitate, jerk and sometimes flat out shut off the engine. the FI comes on. im going to try and get it to throw the code today and have the shop pull the code.
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Maybe it's time to go see Jim.

Jim's Cycles
2805 Chanticleer Avenue
Santa Cruz, CA 95065
(831) 476-8750
 
Jims cycles? never been there but ill check them out.
well they did remove the power commander to make sure it wasnt causing the voltage hike at idle and it wasnt.. but it might be responsible for the cutting out top end.. so im gonna remove that and see if the issue goes away.
 
I think I have the same problem with my 06 Gixxer 750. My rectifier is only putting out 13.4 volts revving at 5000 RPM's .The stator test passed 65v on all 3 coils.

Note: I have replaced all parts of the charging system

~battery,stator and rectifier 3 months ago.

~checked all the wiring and its not melted.

Anyone think its definitely the rectifier?
 
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surfcityrider said:
I think I have the same problem with my 06 Gixxer 750. My rectifier is only putting out 13.4 volts revving at 5000 RPM's .The stator test passed 65v on all 3 coils.

Note: I have replaced all parts of the charging system

~battery,stator and rectifier 3 months ago.

~checked all the wiring and its not melted.

Anyone think its definitely the rectifier?
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Lower charging voltage at higher RPMs is common R/R failure symptom, but could be a connection too. Do a volt-drop test on the charging output leads. Measure volts between battery positive and R/R charging output connector @ 5000 RPM. Under .5 volt is acceptable, and if that's what you get, suspect faulty RR. If you get over a volt, start tracing the circuit back to the battery until your volt-drop gets under .5. Between there and the last spot you measured high is where your resistance lives. Fix that and recheck charging voltage at battery.

Do the same thing on the ground side. Measure volt-drop between battery negative and engine @ 5000 RPM, expect under .5 volt. If higher, back-probe ground from engine to battery until volts are good.

Then the same with regulator. Measure volt-drop @ 5K RPM between battery negative and R/R body. If above .5 volt, move lead to R/R mount surface. If better, fix up R/R contact surface.

Volt-drop testing is what separates sound electrical diagnosis from internet guesswork. Google it, learn about it. Once understood and put to practical use, it is the most effective testing method for most any 12V electrical problem you'll encounter and can confirm or condemn circuit integrity in minutes. Imagine how much confidence you'll have in your troubleshooting skills when you can conclude in minutes that all your connections, powers and grounds are OK?
 
turkishdelight said:
Jims cycles? never been there but ill check them out.
well they did remove the power commander to make sure it wasnt causing the voltage hike at idle and it wasnt.. but it might be responsible for the cutting out top end.. so im gonna remove that and see if the issue goes away.
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Once off and restored to stock, check it out and call me up. I'm slow this week, could use a fun diversion. (N/C, natch...)
 
get a service manual. it should tell you what is the known good charging volts is. Ohhh try using a different meter. I've used low end meters in the past and it kicked me in the ass. The pos was off by 1.5-2 volts. Issue fixed with a fluke and or a snap on one. Just my opinion but 14.5 sounds like the charging system is working like it should.
 
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You want your battery to sit for days, turn it on and read 12.6-12.8v in the static. What was the acid count on the old batteries? 1.26 in that mercury scale? Does that decimal point move to the right one number? Did that read 12.6 no matter how you look at it?

If you add 12.6 all the time and the bike is pulling way more than that for brake, tail, head, ign, computer, etc. and you expect to have a well charged battery at the end of the day or would your rather over charge that system so the regulator knows when to shut it down back to 14.4v at the readout.

WATT are the odds you have 3 junk, out of the box, brand new parts from the factory and you keep swapping out new after new that read the same numbers. Did the book give you a range up to 15v? Is that "within spec" and now ask yourself after 3 pages one opened the book and it is written in stone you go swapping out parts is parts:rofl :wtf
 
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