• There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

Where to buy motorcycle battery?

orbframe said:
the car can be on... this is a looooooong time myth... motos can take 14V just fine, in fact the 14v will help with the voltage drop over the jumper cables
Click to expand...

Voltes are fine. Its the Amps you have to watch out for. They'll kill ya.

The car really doesn't need to be running. A stock car battery in good repair has a ton more capacity than a bike will ever need. An alternator putting out 100, 150 amps like on modern cars can be tough on a motorcycle electrical system that might only see 25 or 50 amps naturally.
 
orbframe said:
the car can be on... this is a looooooong time myth... motos can take 14V just fine, in fact the 14v will help with the voltage drop over the jumper cables
Click to expand...

It's the amps.

Read the instruction label on the top of all motorcycle or car batteries. It details acceptable charging rates. Most motorcycle batteries list a 2amp maximum charge rate.

Cars charge their batteries at upwards of 6-10amps. So if you're running the car when jumping a motorcycle battery your results/damage will vary.
 
NoTraffic said:
Second this, they're located in SF and have almost every battery for every problem. Give them a call to make sure they have one charged and ready to go. I got one for a KLR and had no issues, competitive pricing and good for a pinch.
Click to expand...
I'm not a fan at all of Batteries Plus. I was hopeful they'd sell a good product ... but they don't. There is a store right in San Rafael ... JUNK batteries in my experience over last 5 years.

I bought TWO of their BEST (most expensive) MF batteries. .... both began to degrade within 1.5 year even though BOTH bikes are on Battery Tenders always when parked.

I NOW go for genuine Yuasa (there are fakes out there on line).
https://www.cyclegear.com/parts/yuasa-agm-battery

OR ... my favorite, DEKA. On line only.

I would go to Cycle Gear. Lots of Shorai and Yuasa sold there. For sure they will have your battery.

Don't be in a hurry and by some crap battery. Get a good one, take care of it.
 
mrzuzzo said:
I'll get the battery tested first. If it's good, I'll tow the bike to BMW dealer and get them to fix whatever is broken.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you've got good coverage for towing and service? Bike under full cover service warranty? Good!

But ... you do know ... that the battery does come OUT of your bike? (although with BMW, in some cases they make that difficult!) So, take the batt to them, have it charged and LOAD TESTED.

It may have a bad cell ... in which case it will not hold a charge. JUNK. What is the INSTALL DATE on your current battery? If over 5 years, be suspicious.

But all that screwing around may cost you money, so you could just go to Cycle
Gear, buy yourself a new Yuasa or Shorai ... put it in your bike and be done.
:thumbup
 
Last edited:
walmart or auto parts store if you dont care about brand

recently wanted yuasa and amazon was 1/2 the price of local dealers/cycle gear
 
avu3 said:
Voltes are fine. Its the Amps you have to watch out for. They'll kill ya.

The car really doesn't need to be running. A stock car battery in good repair has a ton more capacity than a bike will ever need. An alternator putting out 100, 150 amps like on modern cars can be tough on a motorcycle electrical system that might only see 25 or 50 amps naturally.
Click to expand...
If you don't mind risking your voltage regulator, go ahead and jump your motorcycle with the car...leave it on for awhile to charge the battery too. :laughing
 
No risk to motorcycle's voltage regulator when hooking up to a running car. The regulator repeatedly sees a -12.6V reverse voltage every time the engine turns off. It can take the jump fine.

The biggest concern is the 14.4V on a running car hooked in parallel to a weak motorcycle battery below 12V trying to rapidly charge that battery with excessive current. Excessive heat, pressure, ... If you're doing it briefly (e.g. to crank your bike's starter, then disconnect the jumper cable) there should be minimal heat to damage the weak battery.
 
If you can, buy a battery where you add the acid yourself. Otherwise, bring a volt meter and reject any battery that's below 12.6. Then charge fully before installing and using.
 
Climber said:
If you don't mind risking your voltage regulator, go ahead and jump your motorcycle with the car...leave it on for awhile to charge the battery too. :laughing
Click to expand...

No risk to anything if the vehicle is not running.

Ah, reread your post. You know that.
 
Last edited:
mototireguy said:
It's the amps.

Read the instruction label on the top of all motorcycle or car batteries. It details acceptable charging rates. Most motorcycle batteries list a 2amp maximum charge rate.

Cars charge their batteries at upwards of 6-10amps. So if you're running the car when jumping a motorcycle battery your results/damage will vary.
Click to expand...

This. You can get away with having the jump vehicle running, but it's not worth the risk. And it's completely unnecessary when jumping a motorcycle.
 
Thanks everyone, the BMW Navigator actually has a voltmeter reading, it was at 11.9V and the starter wouldn't even turn. The BMW electronics disable starter if battery is 12.0V or below.

Bought a battery at O'Reilly's and it started right away. Will keep watch on the voltmeter to make sure it is charging fine.

I think the battery was near death because the bike stood around for a long time without being ridden.
 
mrzuzzo said:
Bought a battery at O'Reilly's and it started right away. Will keep watch on the voltmeter to make sure it is charging fine. I think the battery was near death because the bike stood around for a long time without being ridden.
Click to expand...

Quick easy important key test you should do NOW.

What is the battery voltage when the bike is running at low-mid rpms?
 
I didn't bring the Navigator with me, I'll ride around tonight and check all that. Thanks!

The bike has factory warranty but I really don't want it to be in the shop considering I got it only 2 days ago!
 
ichabodnt650 said:
No risk to motorcycle's voltage regulator when hooking up to a running car. The regulator repeatedly sees a -12.6V reverse voltage every time the engine turns off. It can take the jump fine.

The biggest concern is the 14.4V on a running car hooked in parallel to a weak motorcycle battery below 12V trying to rapidly charge that battery with excessive current. Excessive heat, pressure, ... If you're doing it briefly (e.g. to crank your bike's starter, then disconnect the jumper cable) there should be minimal heat to damage the weak battery.
Click to expand...
The regulator/rectifier is not designed for the amperage for an extended period of time, you risk overheating and damaging it with the amps of the car. I jumped a 99 cbr600 years ago from my bmw which has high cranking amp battery. My regulator/rectifier was fried shortly after.
 
mrzuzzo said:
Thanks everyone, the BMW Navigator actually has a voltmeter reading, it was at 11.9V and the starter wouldn't even turn. The BMW electronics disable starter if battery is 12.0V or below.

Bought a battery at O'Reilly's and it started right away. Will keep watch on the voltmeter to make sure it is charging fine.

I think the battery was near death because the bike stood around for a long time without being ridden.
Click to expand...

Even a totally dead battery can read 12V when it is unloaded.
 
Climber said:
The regulator/rectifier is not designed for the amperage for an extended period of time, you risk overheating and damaging it with the amps of the car. I jumped a 99 cbr600 years ago from my bmw which has high cranking amp battery. My regulator/rectifier was fried shortly after.
Click to expand...

R/R sits between alternator and battery. When you jump start, the good supply taps in parallel with the weak battery. No path back up through R/R. So electrons flow through the jumper cable and either to the starter motor or the weak battery whichever path has lesser resistance. I don't know specifically why your CBR's R/R was damaged, but I suspect it was not directly from the jump starting event described.
 
Last edited:
Ordered an mc battery from Walmart. Wanted to pick it up, but shipping was free so.....

Testing the universe, how long will a $21 battery last. :Popcorn
 
BMW had a bad batch of batteries on these bikes, might be worth a call to the dealership to see if it was ever replaced under warranty.
 
Battery went in my XR as well. Replaced under warranty

Not sure what brand they use. I don't see any markings on it other than the BMW stuff. I have had awesome luck with Yuasa batteries.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top