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Where to get bike dyno'd

Per pull!?! yikes! what happened to $65 for 3. that's the only way to get a good baseline that day. I used to go to Superior Dyno up in Petaluma until he started hauling the dyno (DJ 248E) with him. Only other name locally I remember is Mustang Dyno in Hayward? Couple more up in the city / marin.
 
http://www.hareracing.com/

sunnyvale...they have a dyno

never been there, just heard they have one.

heres what they charge:
Labor
Per hour $75
Dynojet Dyno runs 1 run $35
3 consecutive runs $50
Custom Map $300
 
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Noid said:
Don't go to Factory unless you want to be disapointed. They use a "Factory" or "Eddie currant" (sp) that type of dyno reads alot lower than a "Dyno Jet" dyno which is more commonly used in the industry.

If the goal is to get a number which will allow you to stroke your own moto-ego and brag about to your friends, you will be disappointed.

If the goal is to get your bike running right, you won't.

Factory Eddy Current dynos are consistent from location to location. Dynojet dynos aren't. Eddy current dynos are more time consuming, with runs to gain readings in 1000 rpm increments. Dynojet dynos just require one big spin, and you're on your way.


As far as recomendations go. I would go to "Fast Line" in Fremont, The owner is "Alex" a AFM racer and a really cool guy. If I am not mistaken he charges $40 for a dyno run. Either way have fun.

I go to Alex and Fast Line regularly as a customer (no other affiliation with his shop), due to the proximity of his location to me, in addition to the fact that he does good work for me at a fair rate.

http://www.fastlinecycles.com/

- Mike
 
What is True Rear Wheel Horsepower?

from http://www.factorypro.com/dyno/true1.html

at the end of this page there is a scale to see what bikes typically read on the Factory Eddy Current dyno horsepower scale


What is True Rear Wheel (tm) Horsepower?

A Dynamometer can only measure actual power at the output location. Actual power produced AND delivered by an engine will be highest if measured at the crankshaft, lower at the transmission output shaft and even lower, but more meaningful, still, at the rear wheel.

The power that you use is the power at the rear wheel.

Some Dynamometer companies add to measured rear wheel power readings a factor that is based on ESTIMATED rear wheel power losses (under what power conditions? 125cc? 1200cc? under coasting conditions? with a 3.00x17 bias ply tire? a 190x17 radial tire? New heavy radial tire vs. worn old, light, stock bias ply tire? Who knows?)

In short, there is NO meaningful "average" tire to get a correct rear tire power transmission loss measurement for all bikes - so obviously, unless they actually measure the power lost in the rear tire, under driven load conditions, NO dyno company should BE ADDING incorrect power figures into the measured power. It's simply wrong.

The fact that they add varying amounts of power to the actual, "true" amount of power delivered and measured to the surface of the drive roller creates a situation that makes it an onerous task to compare power figures from different brands of dynamometer systems.

On simple inertial dynamometers, some companies use an average for the inertial value of the engine, transmission, rear wheel, sprocket and chain on every bike - as if a YZ125 has the same rear wheel or internal rotating mass as a 1340cc Harley Davidson. Needless to say, if the software thinks that the YZ125 had a HD rear wheel on it, it would look like the 125 makes more HP at the rear wheel than it does at the crankshaft. It's simply wrong.

It's expensive to measure frictional losses in the engine and drivetrain, requiring the dyno to be able to drive the vehicle with engine off. Add the cost of a 50+hp electric motor, controlled power supply, etc. It's just not likely that $10,000 dyno will be equipped with that equipment.

It is also common for dynamometer companies to add to the power readings by adding transmission and primary gear/chain losses back into the measured power readings. Some companies make a concerted effort try to measure frictional losses and, optionally, add the power to the measured readings. Other companies - some that would surprise you - say that it's not important and give a blanket, single factor for frictional losses in every engine. That includes some $25,000-$35,000 dynes.

Some simply say that there is a meaningful "average" for every motorcycle,(2 stroke, 4 stroke, 1 cylinder/1 transmission, 4 cylinder/1 transmission) and apply it to every bike and that it is not a significant difference.

Blanket estimates of "average" losses and corrections are, quite simply, incorrect. At the upper levels of the industry, (we are talking about $150,000 - $500,000 AC or DC 4 quadrant dynamometers) it is not tolerated - shouldn't be - and needn't be.

True Rear Wheel Horsepower (tm) is Factory Pro's standard of measuring the power that is actually delivered to the rear wheel. It is honest, true, fair and duplicable. It is the ONLY standard that can be duplicated by the entire industry - regardless of the dyno manufacturer.
 
Werkstatt in the city wants $65 for a baseline and I sorta' argued w/first guy on the phone a bit as he said get only one run? huh, can't be an engineer (no offense dude if you're reading this). always run 3x for baseline is what I was taught - "keeping the middle run as the avg. that way the high "cool" engine run and the low "hot" engine runs are eliminated and and avg. established." this also lets the dyno itself normalize. yeah it's anal for a street bike but who's paying for this.

anyways, following that conversation their full tune is $600 (which includes the baseline "run"). there is a write up on werkstatt in the latest city bike but I've yet to grab a copy.

that Hare Racing sounds interesting, along with Fastline. Werkstatt is the most convenient, with Factory in Marin next to me.
 
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Max Smiley said:
Werkstatt in the city wants $65 for a baseline and I sorta' argued w/first guy on the phone a bit as he said get only one run? huh, can't be an engineer (no offense dude if you're reading this). always run 3x for baseline is what I was taught - "keeping the middle run as the avg. that way the high "cool" engine run and the low "hot" engine runs are eliminated and and avg. established." this also lets the dyno itself normalize. yeah it's anal for a street bike but who's paying for this.

It might have to do something with the fact that Werkstatt uses a Factory Eddy Current dyno, I believe they start off with a few short warm up runs at different rpms, followed by the normal runs in 1000 rpm increments to redline.

Sounds as though you know more about proper dyno procedure than I do for a Dynojet Dyno, I know the procedure for the Factory Eddy Current Dyno is different, I'm just not sure about the warmup procedure.

- Mike
 
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