I rode it in 2010 or '11- on my way from PA to visit my brother in Atlanta.
It's TIGHT - as in rather technical, and sees more traffic than it deserves just because of the reputation, in my opinion. Lots of corners marked with spray-paint on the asphalt "SLO" one was marked "SLO - OIL !" and there are visible evidence of many, many bike-drops (oil stains on road) and there is NO run-off on most of it - just a rocky drop-off with very little road-edge except for a couple spots where the photographers hang out.
I got there mid-week after a couple days of rain and had the place mostly to myself, on my loaded FJR1300 (translation = slow riding) and STILL ran up on a couple of SLOW MOVERS in Harleys BLATTING-away at walking speeds on my first pass. I turned around and re-ran it a couple times just because I was there. ( how's that gas station with the race-gas at the pump near one end ? nah, no motor-heads around HERE !!! )
The funny thing is that there are SO MANY really great roads in that region - you really can't list them all, there are hardly any bad ones from Gatlinburg on South to Dahlonega - the whole Smokey mountain area is replete with parkways, skyways, the Nanchez trace and plain old AWESOME country roads - if you get the chance to ride in the area DO IT !! And even pay a visit to 'The Dragon" if you must - just don't base your whole trip on it, 'cause its just not THAT awesome and I'd personally avoid it like the plague on a nice weekend because I'm guessing it would be knucklehead central - on my way back North I bypassed it because it was a beautiful Saturday and the siren call of the weekend Hero was in full effect. Of course I hit the Blue Ridge Parkway and had a great ride up to Asheville and beyond - that really is some beautiful country there, to be sure.