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99-04 SV650 05 Shift Kit Installation

MackeyStingray

MackeyStingray

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99-02 SV650 05 Shift Kit Installation

For those who don't know, the 2005+ SV's shift mechanism is basically the same as the factory pro kit, ball bearing instead of a bushing, more "aggressive" star w/ bigger lobes and a stiffer spring but for a fraction of the cost (i think it costed under $50 incl. shipping for all the parts vs. the $200+ for the factory pro). if you wanted to go for an even smaller budget, just get the spring and the detent arm.

OEM P/N#
25381-19F10 (shift star)
25350-35F00 (detent arm)
25355-35F01 (spring)
11482-19F00 (clutch side cover paper gasket)

thanks to zoran yet again for the 411. thanks dave for lending me the 17-40mm f/4 lens i'm taking the pics with

my first time doing it and i can tell you, you should remove the entire cover rather than just the clutch cover.

Note: this is only an issue w/ the 1st gen SV's where the clutch cover and side cover are seperate. 2nd gen SV's need to remove the entire side cover regardless.

difficulty rating i'd say intermediate, hard being a engine teardown, beginner being an oil change. if you've done a valve check/adj or changed out your clutch, you should be able to tackle this project. only special tool you'd need is a clutch holder. you should be able to borrow or rent it from a shop.

1. drain oil and coolant/water. remove side cover. you may need to tap the cover with a rubber mallet to shake it loose initially.

2493862-img_0164.jpg
 
you'll see this when you remove the side cover. remember, the entire side cover, not just the clutch cover otherwise you'll be cursing till you're blue in the face unless you have little girl hands like me.

2. remove clutch bolts/springs

2493868-img_0165.jpg
 
4. remove clutch plates in order or take then entire pack out (at this point you should check the fibers and steels and replace them as necessary)

2493891-img_0173.jpg
 
5. remove clutch push piece, bearing and thrust washer from the center hub nut. if you don't see all the pieces, it maybe stuck to the pressure plate.
6. bend the lock washer holding the center hub nut use either an impact gun or a clutch holder tool and remove the nut w/ a 27mm socket/wrench

at this point i'm taking less and less pics cause it's starting to get a little oily...

2493894-img_0174.jpg
 
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7. remove entire clutch housing. make sure to remember the specific order of all the parts you removed and to keep it in a clean bin in that order so there's no confusion on which goes where.
8. you should be able to see the shift star, detent arm and spring on the lower left corner

yes, i didn't drain the oil (yet). lesson learned remove the entire clutch side cover, not just the clutch cover and drain oil beforehand

2493897-img_0177.jpg
 
now you see why you need little girl hands if you're going to just take the clutch cover off. if you had the side cover off, all this would be exposed rather than tucked away in the corner

2493900-img_0180.jpg
 
old parts on the left, new parts on the right.

9. there are 2 ways to pull the shift shaft out. either from the shifter side (left side), or from the clutch side (right side/inside the engine).

9.1 (easier) from the shifter side, there's a circlip and a washer. remove 10mm bolt holds the "shift knuckle" and linkage to the shaft.

remove circlip (1) and washer (2) then push the shaft in slightly to get to the detent arm and star

2900974-shiftshaft.jpg


9.2 from the clutch side it's basically the same thing, circlip holding a washer and spring (3). same procedures as 9.1.

2494019-img_0184.jpg


thanks to flatout for the good deal. it took a while (some other things were backordered and i added these last minute as well) but i think it was worth it.
 
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10. it's a pretty straightforward swap. just install the new parts in the same order you took them out. only thing you may need to look out for is to make sure the hook on the spring is pushing against the detent arm notch

use blue locktite and torque the detent bolt and shift star bolt to 10Nm (7ft-lb)

new parts installed. good thing i have girly hands and swivel extensions

2494024-img_0186.jpg
 
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reinstall reverse way you removed. hope you kept a neat pile of parts in a clean bin.

torque specs:
-clutch hub nut is 50Nm (36ft-lb)
-clutch spring bolts 5.5Nm (4ft-lb)
-side cover bolts 10Nm (7ft-lb)

refill oil, start it up, shift and ride. i haven't tried it out yet since it was dark by the time i finished (i started @ 7pm). took me about 2-3hrs to finish.

this is also a worthwhile mod for any of the SV's that are older than the 2005 models. installation on the 03-04 FI SV's may differ slightly but should be about the same.
 
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Thanks for the write up and photos!
 
Good stuff, I've been thinking about the Factory kit for my racebike. This looks like similar goodness and much less money. I need to get in there anyway, since the racebike's still on the OEM clutch plates! That's 27,000 street miles, and a full season of AFM on that clutch, I'm AMAZED it doesn't slip.
 
The primo writeup by Mackey. I did the same thing, 05 parts in my 00, and I did not take the whole cover off either, just the clutch cover. It is not that hard, but it is not that easy either. If you have small hands it's easier.

O, and I love the way it shifts, much more positive.
 
does this mod just improve shifting or resolve a known failure point?
how is the shift effort with the mod?
 
SV's aren't particularly known for hitting alot of false neutrals but i've been getting them from time to time due more to sloppy/lazy shifting and this should resolve that. shifting's alot smoother and more positive.

very worthwhile if you've got the time and tools.

also check skippy's factory shift star install on the 636. he opted to go w/ undoing the shifter side of the shift shaft rather than what i did.

http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=85733
 
btw, i took it out the next afternoon when there was light out and i can tell you it shifts very smoothly, shifts are more positive and even feels like the distance btwn. gears is shorter so there's less effort
 
Your coolant drain bolt is wired wrong; it's wired in the "loosen" direction.
 
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