Counter-Lean

[luk]

Hi folks,

Guess Im moving on from racing.

Following is an essay I wrote while "in the zone" with regards to sliding.

Believe it
.....or not.

I couldnt care either way.

But maybe you should give it a try just to see what happens.

Just be careful please.




The Counter-Lean



Introduction:

I am not a racing teacher. Keith Code is though, and many of the ideas presented here are based upon his teachings. It is in this writer’s opinion that Mr. Code is the most empirically scientific based teacher in the field, with sound logical theories that he has tested time and time again both as a racer and at his Super Bike schools. The scientific method in its essence, if you’ve forgotten, begins with the creation of a theory, the testing of that theory, and drawing conclusions based upon the raw data of your tests. A theory becomes scientific fact when it has shown itself to be repeatable and producing consistent expected results. After a time, and much testing by a wide array of people, scientific theory eventually makes its way into our respected teaching books and is no longer just an idea, but an accepted understood portion of reality. Watch any motorcycle race on the tube, and you will quickly realize that the general form of all the riders is the same, essentially equating to “teaching book” scientific fact.

A good rider should strive to become aware of everything he can learn about the way motorcycle machines work: studying the mechanics and the physics of our machines will lead to your understanding of why these machines are built the way they are, and will ultimately make you a better rider. Kevin Cameron’s “Sportbike Performance Handbook” is an excellent read on the introduction of why motorcycles are built, and work the way they do.


The Counter-Lean:

Up until Kenny Roberts, nobody tried leaning off a motorcycle in road racing while dragging a knee. The style up to that point was to stay firmly seated and let the bike adapt to the road exclusively. When Roberts started hanging off, his style was explained as working because it lowers the center of gravity inwards of the motorcycle, lessening the lean angle required and thus increasing early throttle roll-ons as well as carrying momentum.

While getting on the throttle early and carrying momentum are important, there are times when they are not nearly as important as removing the body from the bike and allowing it to exercise its’ “perfect dampening”.

As Keith Code Explains on his forums at http://forums.superbikeschool.com:

“Do you understand that when a rider stands on the pegs and uses the correct amount of effort (in active suspension mode) to handle a bump he has defeated that bump: the energy it has produced won't recycle back into the bike's suspension. He's out of the loop. Everything calms down very fast; in fact, it never even begins to unsettle the bike.”


The idea here is to use the body's perfect dampening to compliment the motorcycles imperfect suspension, all while maintaining control. Riding with the body fully hanging off the bike does NOT allow our bodies to exercise said perfect dampening. If we are relying on the bike to absorb and defeat bumps, then we are forever stuck at the limits of the machine. To exceed these limits, as Mr. Code suggests, one must remove oneself from the “loop.” This is also a good point to mention just how little our bikes are capable of using its suspension to absorb bumps while leaned over. Straight up and down, the suspension on a motorcycle has the capacity for maximum suspension travel and bump absorbing ability. When the bike is leaned over though, only a portion of that suspension travel is available and the bikes ability to absorb bumps is significantly decreased. This necessitates the need for increased use of our body’s perfect dampening as lean angle increases. Unfortunately, today’s current trend of “hanging off” doesn’t support this.

Think about it: If a rider is hanging off, anchored firmly (as in: you would fall off without that anchor point) by thigh, inner foot, or knee on the opposite side, the rider has just reduced his capacity for perfect dampening. He is now heavily relying, and subject to, the limits of the machines suspension. If, however, the rider can maximize the body’s capacity for perfect dampening while still maintaining control, including maximum lean angle, traction sensitivity, and relaxed response, then he can change from being a hindrance to the motorcycles natural corrections and gyroscopic stability into being a positive force working in tandem with a machine that has just become incredibly hard to upset.

The final result is confidence while sliding at speed on a pure sport bike. Being able to use the body’s perfect dampening while at full lean is part of what allows the bike to slide with consistent predictability. But why is sliding important you ask? The first and absolutely most important aspect of sliding a bike is being able to ride beyond the limits of traction. This seems obvious, but really think about it for a minute. Why do most riders spend so much energy, time, and money on finding “better” tires than their current buns? Because they “think” they are riding at the tires limits. They think that they would be able to go faster with better tires, and they are right to a degree. But no matter what tires they have, they are always going to be stuck at that limit they create for themselves because of a lack of confidence, so they up the capabilities of the bike to raise the limits of the machine so they don’t have to push the limits of their skills to go faster.

 

[luk]

That said, let’s look at some of the different ways to slide a motorcycle.

There are three ways for a bike to be considered sliding.

1. The rear slides

2. The front slides

3. Both rear and front slide simultaneously

The third option, sliding both the front and back simultaneously, usually happens when a rider is pushing the limits under mild acceleration and is balanced on the bike. The usual result is a scrub in speed. This “drifting” is not that advantageous in itself, but it does show that the rider really is riding beyond the tires friction limits. This can even be considered a negative condition to riding fast, because if both tires are sliding then you aren’t accelerating enough. Riding beyond the tires limits means carrying more speed to “break” those traction limitations, and carrying more speed through corners is what this is all about. So sliding both tires is not so much a goal, it is more of a side effect of being able to push traction limits.

The second option, sliding the front, is really not desirable at all. Sliding the front doesn’t even mean you are riding at the bikes limits. It usually means that something is being done incorrectly. If you are sliding the front, some things to look for are bad weight distribution, improper throttle control, or machine setup. Figure out what is causing the front to push or tuck and correct it as soon as you can. You really don’t want to do this on purpose, but you do need to be comfortable with what it feels like.

The first option, sliding the rear, can happen in two circumstances: going into
the corner, “backing it in”, or more accurately, sliding it in, or coming out of a corner, or sliding it out. Sliding it out is usually the feared one because of its propensity towards the High Side.

That said, let’s look at the advantages of sliding the rear.

1. Being able to use different lines
2. Braking
3. Staying in the power curve

1. Being able to use different lines should be an obvious advantage. Isn’t this one of the things which makes Rossi great? Backing it in usually results in going in hotter and squaring off a corner, but it doesn’t mean you have to square off the corner to the max.

Consider the lines through a turn depicted by a rider at full lean on a sport bike, as opposed to a rider sliding through on a super-moto from an Arial view, and then shade in the area between the two lines. That’s all real-estate that just became available for different lines, if you can slide the rear. Being able to slide the rear coming out of a corner allows one to "steer" with the rear. Sliding it out is essential in order to make sliding it in (backing it in) an effective strategy. Just as sliding it in allows you to take a different line going into the corner, sliding it out allows you to continue the unique line out of the corner. Only when combining the two will a quicker line be realized.

2. Braking. Many riders do not use the back brakes. The reasoning being that the if only using the front brake can lift the back, then maximum braking can be done with only the front brake. This logic is flawed, mostly due to the way bikes work. Some may have read in Codes books that when a rider rolls on the throttle, the rear end actually lifts, instead of squatting like a car does. This is due to the drive chains angle in relation to the swing arm. I wonder how many people realize though, that engine braking with the rear has the
opposite effect. When you are engine braking with the rear, the rear end tends to squat, lowering center of gravity, which in turn (no pun intended) decreases weight shift while braking. This, of course, means you can brake harder without endo-ing.

Also, if you can drop two/three gears and set the rear up for doing 90% of your braking, while using just the front brake for precision speed adjustments, you have an advantage. Realize too, that most of the attention demands while sliding it in are done early in the turn, allowing you to fully concentrate on a quick flick and proper throttle control to set up for your power sliding exit.

3. The last one. Staying in the power curve happens when you’re sliding coming out of a corner. If you can keep the revs up and the rear wheel spinning until the bikes speed catches up with the power band, you can realize near max acceleration during the exit portion of the turn.

Let’s look at an example.

Think about a time when you were stuck behind a rider, yet knew that you were faster if you could just get around him. You have the skill to go into the same corner faster, brake in a shorter distance, and-out accelerate him/her, yet you cannot, because you are limited to this “line” that is generally known as not only the smoothest, but the fastest.

Now imagine your skill set includes being able to slide it in and slide it out at will. How easy has it just become to go to the outside of the rider in front of you going into the turn, back end swinging around lining you up for a perfect drive coming out of the corner, which you can do since you are confident in your ability to get on the throttle early while still exercising balance and throttle control, right up to the point where the rear tire begins losing adhesion again? I’ll tell you, it’s very easy, once counter-lean is employed. We see Moto GP riders doing this and we think they are god’s, but the reality is, if another human can do it, you have the same potential within yourself.

 

[luk]

The reason a top rider can slide a 180+hp, 300lb sport-bike is party due to skill, but is also heavily dependent upon confidence. These guys know what’s going to happen when the bike begins to slide at high speeds. Their confidence to control that slide is real and exists firmly in their mind, and hence they can. It’s not magic, they just have the practice, knowledge, and most importantly, experience of working up to that level of riding.

Maybe you’re convinced that sliding just might be advantageous at this point, but how the heck can you get comfortable enough to slide by riding at, and beyond, the bikes limits?
The whole process is dependent upon Code’s “perfect dampening” and this thing I call counter-lean, defined here first as: leaning in the opposite direction in which one is leaning a motorcycle while maintaining speeds and traction such that counter-steer is necessary. You may have already noticed some top riders simulating this with a “crossed up” style over the bike. A personal example can be seen in Photographer Joe Salas’ (www.4theriders.com) video “inevitable” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmddgoJ0Cxg) or “tacos: the short version” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zB5LcjL73G8) on www.youtube.com, in which he documents the early stages of the development of my exploration into counter-leaning on a VFR800. If you watch or have seen these videos, there are many times when it looks like I’m going to High Side, but really I’m just playing around with sliding the rear, which I can do incredibly confidently, even on that goat trail of a road, because I’m exercising counter-lean.

Counter-lean: The process of leaning in the opposite direction in which one is leaning a motorcycle while maintaining speeds and traction such that counter-steer is necessary. So how do you do it?

First and foremost, study and imprint upon your brain Mr. Code’s survival reactions found in his book “Twist of the Wrist II”. These are absolutely essential to know. The first step to mastery of the bodys’ motor skills is being able to predict how the body will react in stressful situations. If you are familiar with Code’s survival reactions, test yourself right now and list them off, if you can’t, go back and study them. When you get stuck at a plateau where your riding is just not improving, always go back to basics. Often when we fail to see ourselves growing and learning, it’s due to something fundamental that we’ve overlooked, and once those basics are re-observed and studied, then we can continue to grow as riders.

Secondly, start small. You’re not going to learn to slide it in and slide it out in a day. Most likely, it may take weeks, even months before you begin to gain an ounce of confidence. There’s a fine line between pushing yourself way over your capabilities, and treading that line lightly so as to promote an environment where you can learn without fear. Never, ever, ride over your head, and you know what I mean… that time when a fearful thought enters your mind while riding. If this happens, slow down, relax, and let the confidence come back to you and the fear slide away (no pun intended here either). Fear is not to be overcome, but understood and respected. It’s what keeps the rubber side down. Being a good motorcyclist depends heavily upon maintaining a fearless mental calmness. That being said, to begin learning how to slide it in and slide it out, we must first and most importantly …..relax.

The motorcycles of today are incredibly well understood from an engineering standpoint as opposed to twenty or even ten years ago. We have only figured out just recently where to properly place the engine, the importance of mass centralization, and in general, the importance of weight distribution when building our machines. At this point, these sport bikes of today are capable of riding way beyond the average mortals’ abilities. This is due in large part to our continuing research and understanding about how motorcycles work. As the machines technology has improved, the ability to find the machine’s limits becomes increasingly hard to experience, and ultimately, knowing and being able to ride beyond a machine’s limit is what separates the fast from the fastest. This is also why the motorcycles of today need incredibly little input to be ridden at max efficiency. They are just that stable all by themselves. We, as riders, have only two jobs really, to guide the machine in the direction we want to go, and to keep it moving. That’s it. The motorcycle does everything else. It will keep itself upright, it will arc perfectly around a corner, and it will correct slides and absorb bumps in the best possible manner (within mechanical limits) to keep progressing onward in its’ kinetic state. Therefore, relaxing is the most important thing to understand about riding a bike calmly at the limits. You just cannot, absolutely ever, tighten up on the bike in panic. Putting yourself in a position (counter-lean) to execute “perfect dampening” is the second most important thing.

To learn to relax, we must practice it over and over again, and then begin to induce the “panic” situations so we may practice applying the same relaxed mental and physical state in previously considered fearful situations. The main panic situation we are trying to learn about in this case is the High Side, arguably the most feared accident in motorcycle riding.

Try this exercise. Go out on a solo ride to a road you’re comfortable with, with little traffic or houses, and some nice varying turns. You don’t want it to be too fast, in fact, you want it to be as comfortable, safe, and consistent an environment as you can create. (I’d recommend a track for this, but I realize that this is not an option for everybody, nor would most people be able to relax enough to break set habits of riding with other riders focused on going fast and making passes).You get extra bonus points if it’s a road that you can ride the length of with only one or two gear shifts. Start by guiding your bike with just your fingertips and thumb. As you approach a left hand turn, start by ever so lightly pushing on the left handlebar with your palm to initiate counter-steer to the right, at the same time pulling ever so lightly on the right handlebar to assist the steering that ultimately turns the bike left. Do the opposite for right hand turns, using your right palm to push the bars forward on the throttle side, while using your left hand to lightly pull the left bar inwards to the body. Your fingers/hands/palms should be barely touching the bars. As you do this you should become aware of just how little input the bike needs to turn quickly. After doing a few laps on the road you’ve picked, try taking that road with only your throttle hand, keeping your left hand on your hip or gas tank (or just near but not touching the left bar till you gain confidence). Again, focus on keeping that right hand relaxed and loose while going through your turns, using the brakes lightly (you’re going to have to get comfortable with braking with the rear brake and this is as good a time as any to practice that if you’re up to it). I should also mention at this point, that it’s impossible to slow down too much going into corners while practicing this. When you think about it, this only gives you more time to practice smooth roll-ons as well getting used to the many aspects of an unfamiliar riding style. You should eventually find yourself beginning to un-consciously counter-lean, and if you aren’t lets start focusing on making it happen.

As I’ve said already, counter-lean is incredibly dependent upon relaxing and staying loose. (I’d like to point out here that were not actively trying to lean in the opposite direction, but are ending up in a counter-lean position due to minimal input.) I hope you also understand that I mean loose in such a way as you never before even thought necessary. When we are riding with one hand, we are forced to use the body to help lean the bike through turns, and as a result, we find the body staying on top of the motorcycle. You may find yourself using your knee to help push the bike over as you counter-steer with one hand. This is good, this is what we want actually, because as your skills mature, the ability to turn quickly will become more important, and turning the bike quickly in the counter-lean style requires using the rider’s weight to really crank the bike over fast. What is happening here is that since you’re exercising guiding the bike with only one hand, you no longer have a stable counter-point in which to push yourself off the bike into the familiar “leaning off” style. This forces the rider to interact minimally in order to guide the bike, which teaches us that the body’s natural inclination towards stability on a motorcycle is maintained by minimal weight transitions. This results in a strange, incredibly upright, dirt-rider picturesque looking style. This is O.K. at first, but as you progress so will the style’s maturity, and you will find yourself pulling the body closer into the bike and further up on the front wheel at speed, while still executing relaxation and counter-lean. In the beginning we want to exaggerate the motions in order to accustom ourselves to the new sensations we create with these exercises. Once the basics are understood, we can begin to combine them with known ways of going fast incorporating all that we already know back into the final style which will ultimately be unique to you.

After practicing the above lessons for a time, you should find yourself going faster and faster at higher and higher speeds using the same techniques (light on the bars, one handed riding, and counter-lean). I want to mention here, the importance of the little bar feelers on the bottom end of your pegs. Lots of riders take these off for little more reason than they think it makes you go faster. (The reasoning of which is that when the feelers slides, it’s going to “scare” the rider into a survival reaction). These riders couldn’t be more wrong. When you take the peg ends off you lose a safety feature, and the loss of this particular safety feature is going to slow you down. The manufacturers of modern sport bikes build these peg feelers to touch down way before maximum lean angle is achieved, and thus they are incredibly valuable as lean angle gauges when we practice counter-lean since we no longer have the knee to judge with, not to mention, peg ends are much more consistent than a knee. Again, the style will mature and you will find less and less need for the peg feelers, until you reach the point where your knee and toe sliders are touching down simultaneously while still maintaining counter-lean.

Once you find yourself consistently touching down hard parts or realizing maximum lean angle while counter-leaning, you are ready to begin learning how to slide it out. Remember from Code’s teachings that if you are not accelerating out of a corner, then the weight balance on the bike is non optimum. Since the rear tire has a greater contact patch, a majority of the machines weight must be biased towards the rear of the bike to achieve maximum cornering speeds. Realize that if you’re not accelerating through a corner, then whether you feel it or not, the front end is pushing somewhat because it is handling an equal or greater amount of traction than the wider rear. A pushing front end means the bike is running wider in a corner than is necessary. So, to tighten up our cornering, we need to start creating rear weight bias while going through a corner, eventually to the point where we create so much rear weight bias, combined with acceleration forces, that we exceed the rear tires coefficient of static friction and it begins to slide. (Static friction is actually a misnomer here, as motorcycle tires are constantly sliding whether we feel it or not, but in comparison to a full out slide, it appears static).

To learn this, start by entering very well known turns much slower than normal, cranking the bike over with counter-lean, counter-steer, and lots of forward weight bias (sit way up on the gas tank while maintaining an erect posture and a slight lean forward). Once the bike is turned, cranked over, and your counter-lean posture is correct and your touch light on the bars, begin rolling that throttle quicker, further, and faster (but no less smoother) as you’re coming out of the corner. If you are doing it right, you will begin finding yourself needing less and less room to complete the turn even though your exit speed is the same or even increasing. You should also become aware of just how little you’ve been taking full advantage of the traction of today’s tires, unless you’re a rider who is already used to riding at traction limits. You’re going to find that you can exercise an incredible amount of throttle roll-on while still maintaining complete traction. It’s at this point that your confidence is going to really start growing, so much so, that it is incredibly easy to over do it. This is the point where accidents start happening my friends. Be very aware that you are reaching new limits of rear wheel traction by the second every time you practice this, and thus, it’s very easy to reach a point where your corner speed begins out-pacing your ability to handle the machine. The newfound relaxation and riding style should start having a noticeable and pronounced effect on your ability to go fast, which can be euphoric and instigative of mistakes. Just as its important to recognize fear in your head, it’s just as important to recognize over-confidence, as both will lead to a crash.

That being said, lets continue taking the process of sliding it out further. At some point you will realize that there really is a limit to rear wheel traction after all, and it happens to be rather consistent, as long as we’re smooth on the throttle, at the same lean angle, and road conditions are uniform. The rear wheel will begin to slip a little at a certain point, most likely as the bike reaches its power portion of the torque curve. It’s at this point that the body’s perfect dampening comes into play. If everything is going well, you are mostly balanced on the bike by the balls of your feet, with a light touch on the bars, and maybe a light touch of the knee directly on top of the tank with the bike leaned far over under you. As the bike begins to slide, it will naturally compensate for the upset by automatically turning into the slide. Realize you don’t have to work at this, it happens automatically. Again, the only job here is to keep the bike pointed in the correct direction and keep the bike moving with smooth throttle control, both of which require our first lesson, staying relaxed. If there is any tightening up on the bars at all, the bike will not be able to do its natural turning into the turn stability, and you will soon find yourself in the throes (pun intended) of a High Side.

These are the basics of sliding it out on a motorcycle. Keep practicing it and your form will mature and speeds will increase as your comfort levels go up. Congratulations, you’ve just learned half of what it takes to ride like a god.

The second part is backing it in. Backing it in can really be done in any position as long as were not, so to speak, tightening up on the seat. Just as sliding it out requires letting the front wheel compensate for the rear end sliding wide, backing it in requires allowing the rear of the bike to move around a lot. It just so happens that counter-lean is the most stable position in which to control backing it in. First, to learn how to back it in, you have to understand what is happening. As a bike is approaching a corner at relatively high speed, the clutch is pulled in and at least two downshifts are quickly made. Simultaneously the rider should be on the front brake, shifting weight bias forward. This lightens the back end, and that coupled (but not necessarily) with a light touch on the rear brake makes the rear wheel reach its maximum point of static friction and beyond into the realm of sliding. Understand that the rear wheel is not locked up during this process, ever. What is happening is the rear wheel is moving at a different speed than the front wheel, and thus is very close to the rear wheel’s maximum braking potential. In fact, I would argue that since so many riders are afraid to use the rear brake, that any situation that puts you very close to maximum rear tire braking capacity is a good one. As backing it in becomes second nature to you, you begin to realize just how little attention braking ends up requiring.

Next is to begin using the throttle to complete the back it in maneuver. This seems a bit reversed, but rolling on the throttle at this point has the effect of bringing the rear end back into line. This is opposite of the requirements needed to initiate sliding it out, because if you remember, the rear tire is moving slower than the front. As soon as throttle roll on begins, the rear tire speeds up, and the rear braking effect of the engine ceases. Hence, rear tire stabilization and grip is realized.

Now for the finale, putting the two together. Let’s go back to our example with the rider in front of you who is slowing you down, but fast enough that you cannot get by easily. Picking up in the middle of the scenario, you’ve just gone into the corner faster than them, with the rear end doing most of your braking, and a light modulation of the front brake for the rest of your deceleration. Now you begin to roll on the throttle and the rear end comes back into line and your drive out of the corner and past your friend begins. At this point, remember that your main necessity is max acceleration. You continue rolling on the throttle quickly and smoothly until the rear beings to slip. You stop the roll-on, or modulate it slightly to correct the direction your bike is pointing (this is the“steering with the rear” I talked about earlier), and then start rolling on slowly towards that wonderful torque curve while still spinning the rear tire slightly by keeping it in high rpm’s. At some point, the rear wheel stops spinning and synchronizes to your throttle position, in this case directly at the beginning of the power band, and now we can really start accelerating out of the corner.

Conclusion:

This concludes my presentation of the counter-lean and its importance in road racing. Please remember that these ideas and processes originated by a guy who has no professional teaching experience. I have no trophies, no claims to fame, and I don’t even have that many track days under my belt. Try these ideas and techniques at your own risk.



*This document MAY be reprinted and shared, as long as it is not used for profit*

 

[afmotorsports]

Congratulations, you’ve just learned half of what it takes to ride like a DOORKNOB

There, I fixed it for you. Nothing personal, but somebody ought to smack you upside the head for even suggesting that people try riding like that. The video is worth a thousand words. It is truly frightening to watch. I can't remember ever seeing anybody having that many "moments" while riding that slow.

Keith Code is a pretty intelligent, analytical guy. If he endorses this "theory", I would say it's time to take him out to pasture and put him out of his misery...

 

[Zerox]

Counter lean:

 

[ALANRIDER7]

 

[Pakow]

What kind of road racing experience do you have exactly?

I could be wrong but I don't think there is a class in the AMA or AFM for the VFR 800...

moto gp, perhaps?

 

[2strokeYardSale]

Also, if you can drop two/three gears and set the rear up for doing 90% of your braking, while using just the front brake for precision speed adjustments, you have an advantage.

Right there is where I gave up.

 

[Yody]

originated by a guy who has no professional teaching experience. I have no trophies, no claims to fame, and I don’t even have that many track days under my belt.

I think that you should put this in the beginning not the end of the post.

 

[Wild Child]

So I'll file this under "Friction Fiction".

 

[NoQuarter]

gotta give some props to guy for having the balls to post what's obviously gonna result in a flame fest.

really though, there's a lot of appropriate techniques and valid explanations in all that... for dirt bike riding. which could very well be a decent way to ride any two wheeler on unpredictable surfaces.

the idiocy of the whole post is suggesting people go out and practice such thing on street bikes on public roads. there's really no reason to be "building your confidence" with traction limits on the street.

buy, borrow or rent a dirt bike and tear that shit up all day at any of the local offroading parks and you'll learn everything and more about how to build confidence sliding a two wheeled machine around... and guess what? it's a helluva lot less painful to bin it in the dirt at 10mph on an XR100 practicing these things than it is at 50 on a 400lb streetbike in the streets. but to get all "scientfic" for you... the physics of traction, suspension, "perfect body suspension" and all that jazz are exactly the same. the limits are just far lower on dirt and therefore far easier to access, exceed, correct, and learn.

happy riding all!

 

[Baptistro]

yikes. Just try some dirt track and you'll get the same results without risking life and limb.

Or there's always Rich Oliver's Mystery School or American Supercamp if you really want some instruction.

 

[stangmx13]

This results in a strange, incredibly upright, dirt-rider picturesque looking style. This is O.K. at first, but as you progress so will the style’s maturity, and you will find yourself pulling the body closer into the bike and further up on the front wheel at speed, while still executing relaxation and counter-lean. In the beginning we want to exaggerate the motions in order to accustom ourselves to the new sensations we create with these exercises. Once the basics are understood, we can begin to combine them with known ways of going fast incorporating all that we already know back into the final style which will ultimately be unique to you.

so by this lil excerpt, how does one go from dangerously riding a sportbike like a dirtbike to this:

??????

 

[Yody]

Is this the same guy that everyone was flaming back when Com3 posted some videos of him and his buddy riding goat trails. I remember everyone wishing the dude a fairwell reserved RIP for his riding styles. I believe he was the guy com3 was videoing. Also I didn't read the entire thing, but I thought the pros backed it in by banging a few downshifts to get the rear tire spinning, and not using the rear brake at all(to back it in, not in general)

 

[kiltwearinfool]

Please, don't ever "go on a solo ride" and try something new that may result in you falling off the motorcycle. Bring a buddy, just in case.

 

[Aluisious]

so by this lil excerpt, how does one go from dangerously riding a sportbike like a dirtbike to this:

??????

Those guys clearly have no idea what they're doing

 

[immortal]

luk
"Newbie"

yup.

 

[CnDnMax]

if u watch the 2nd video the guy goes down in a turn.

 

[Aluisious]

if u watch the 2nd video the guy goes down in a turn.

Wow...that video was just...wow.

So many asinine things going on there, I don't know where to start.

 

[Johndicezx9]

Counter lean:

Tell Granny if she's got time to lean, she's got time to clean!