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Integrated LED Mirrors

You can also skip this entire resister exercise and just get an LED purposed flasher.
 
NorCalBusa said:
You can also skip this entire resister exercise and just get an LED purposed flasher.
Click to expand...

What's that! I already bought the mirrors/flush mounts though =(

picture.php


picture.php
 
cschew said:
What's that! I already bought the mirrors/flush mounts though =(
Click to expand...
Look at post #8:

DannoXYZ said:
Legally, you're allowed up to a 2-blink/sec. rate. Faster than that and you may get a fix-it ticket. Personally, I think the higher rates attract more attention and is more visible. Here's a solid-state flasher relay that doesn't care about circuit-resistance:

http://www.grote.com/product.php?product_number=44120
http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product/led_signal_relay/web1006869
http://www.ledlight.com/electronic-led-flasher-el13a2.aspx

A lot of modern bikes have solid-state relays as opposed to old-fashioned bi-metaliic/thermal relays. Check out how yours responds 1st. I know on my CBR, that the blink-rate remains constant regardless of whether I attach LED or incandescent filament bulbs.
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I purchased these a few weeks ago. they work well i just had issues with the "ball and socket" adjusting joint. After about 50mph they move and need to be constinatly re adjusted.
 

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Also, I just tapped into my existing wire harness for the blinkers and good to go. No issues at all....
 
skoobie snacks said:
Also, I just tapped into my existing wire harness for the blinkers and good to go. No issues at all....
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This is exactly what I want to do!! That looks awesome =)

How do I "tap" into the existing wire harness for the blinkers? If you can show me a picture of the wiring and how you did did that that'd be awesome!
 
I'd put a connector on the 2 wires from the mirror, remove the terminals from the connector on the flush mount, solder a new wire to each terminal (if there is room in the connector for two wires per terminal), cut them to length and add a connector on the other end to mate with the mirror. This makes it easy to remove your mirror and front fairing in the future.

I just noticed that your mirrors don't run the wire all the way down to the mounting bolts and thru the fairing, so having easily detachable wiring isnt as necessary. If you don't want to mess with the existing connectors on the flush mounts, you could strip or cut (cutting has the advantage of using shrink tubing instead of electrical tape) the wiring on the flush mounts, crimp/solder on the mirror wires, and be done. Personally I'd still want a connector between the mirrors and the rest of the bike. Details like that make it a more reliable modification and easier for you down the road, and not as much of a turn off for the next owner like twisted and taped connections. If you need pictures I'll draw a diagram.

Dont forget to tape the mirror wiring up under the front fairing and down to the side fairing to keep it out of the way. And like Danno and scooby snacks said earlier, the resistor may not be necessary in your case, just something to know about.
 
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cschew said:
This is exactly what I want to do!! That looks awesome =)

How do I "tap" into the existing wire harness for the blinkers? If you can show me a picture of the wiring and how you did did that that'd be awesome!
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You want to remove some insulation from the turn-signal wires that have the connector. Maybe 1" from the connector.

Then wrap the same colour wire (yellow-to-yellow, black-to-black) from the mirror lights onto the wires from the turn-signal. Then solder it on and wrap with shrink-wrap tubing. Similar to the red and black wires in this picture:

9.gif
17.gif

http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/images/9.gif
http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/images/17.gif

Y-connector.jpg

http://www.board-portal.de/ArduWiino/Y-connector.jpg
 
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If I am understanding what you guys are saying correctly, if I just solder the mirror wires to the flush mount wires, that means I would never be able to take off the mirrors right(cause the mirror and flush mount wires wouldn't be attached by a connector)? If that's the case, I probably want to go to the connector route you suggested.

Also, what do I do about the third wire(I think the ground wire)? That's the wire that makes the LED's in the flush mounts and Mirrors act as running lights correct?

I think, (if I am using the terms correctly), I want to put a connector on the led mirror's wires, and attach both the led mirror's wire's connector and flush mount's wire's connector to the "terminal" that's already on my bike?

But I still don't know what to do with the ground wire. Do I need to attach a third wire (which should act as a grounding wire) with a connector to the flush mount and led mirror?

Sorry for all the questions! This is my first time soldering anything or working with circuits in my life! I just want to make sure that I do this right the first time! But it is fun learning! =]

Thanks for all the replies!
 
By terminal, I mean the small metal pieces in the connectors. They are usually removable if you have a small tool to slide in and release the little tab that holds them in (use a safety pin or something like that). If you cant do that, splice as Danno shows. I would do it on the LED side of the flushmount connector, so you arent messing with the bikes original wiring. Where is the 3rd wire? Aren't the turn signal connectors on the bike 2 pin? Also, the grounds on Hondas are green. I doubt the 3rd wire is a ground, but its possible.
 
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cschew said:
If I am understanding what you guys are saying correctly, if I just solder the mirror wires to the flush mount wires, that means I would never be able to take off the mirrors right(cause the mirror and flush mount wires wouldn't be attached by a connector)? If that's the case, I probably want to go to the connector route you suggested.

Also, what do I do about the third wire(I think the ground wire)? That's the wire that makes the LED's in the flush mounts and Mirrors act as running lights correct?

I think, (if I am using the terms correctly), I want to put a connector on the led mirror's wires, and attach both the led mirror's wire's connector and flush mount's wire's connector to the "terminal" that's already on my bike?

But I still don't know what to do with the ground wire. Do I need to attach a third wire (which should act as a grounding wire) with a connector to the flush mount and led mirror?

Sorry for all the questions! This is my first time soldering anything or working with circuits in my life! I just want to make sure that I do this right the first time! But it is fun learning! =]

Thanks for all the replies!
Click to expand...


Ok, so my set up is soldered and shrink wraped so I took some photos of a buddies who has the same mirrors and on an 03 CBR600RR. I recomend soldering and shrink wrap or tubing but, if you don't feel comfortable soldering use this type of connector.

It is less perminate and very easy to use. you can pick a box of like 15-20 up at walmart for less then $5.

I'm going to try to write this so it's an easy walk thru for you. .......

The two (2) wires that are coming from the mirror are black and yellow. One (1) black one (1) yellow.

The two (2) wires comming from your turn signal should be black and red. One (1) black one (1) red.

Thier are three (3) wires coming from the OEM conection (or harness). One (1) black, one (1) light blue, and one (1) light blue with a white stripe.

The easiest way to connect the mirrors is to "tap" into the turn signal lights. Essentially all your doing is connecting the mirror to the turn signal so that the mirror will get the same signal to turn on and off just as the turn signal or blinker would. So to do that you have a couple options. It isn't completely necessary but since it's your first time disconect your battery before you start to avoid any shorts by accidental wire touching.

Option #1 : (Easiest)

Take the connector shown above (I think it's called a Quick Connect or T Connector not sure) and place the black wire coming from the turn signal into the spot on the connector that is open on both sides. (**If the top door is facing right then it's the left hole**).
Then, after making sure you have enough wire coming from the mirror to hide the wires put the black wire coming from the mirror into the second hole, or the hole with only one end open. make sure the wire coming from the mirror is pushed in as far as it can go. Holding the wires in place, with a pair of pliers push the metal connector down into the wires. Once it is fully depressed close the top door. It should just click into place.

Do the exact same thing with the red wire coming from the red wire coming from the turn signal and the yellow wire coming from the mirror. Red wire goes on the open side of the conector and the yellow wire goes into the one sided hole.

Wrap it all up with good electrical tape. Not the dollar store stuff use 3m or something like that.

Then complete the same steps for the other side. Hide your wires, connect your battery and test her out. If you did it as I explained their should be no issues.

Your other options are soldering and shrink tubing into the blinkers or OEM harness in which case their are diffrent steps to take. If you want to go that rout let me know and i'll write it out for you. Since it seems you are worried about soldering being perminate and it's your first DIY with electrical, I think this is the best approach for you.

Any questions let me know
 

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Alright sounds good skoobie!

I'm going to attempt what skoobie has proposed over the weekend since my main transportation to school is my bike and I don't want to mess anything up during the week(Plus I should be studying).

Speaking of which........... I need to go to class!!

@kgmoto I think I remembered a third green wire coming from the turn signal. I'll try to find some pics or take some new ones to see if I remembered correctly.

Thanks guys!
 
It is a 3 pin connector on the bike, G being ground. Orange and light blue are your running lights. O/W and Lb/W are your turn signals. It looks like the connectors on the flushmounts are 2 pin, so go ahead and cut those off. You can either buy OEM style connectors, or cut the ones off of your OEM signals leaving a few inches of wire, and solder the flushmounts and mirror wires to it. Blk to G, Y to O/W on the left, Y to Lb/W on the right. Isolate and insulate the O and Bl running light wires.
 
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kgmoto said:
It is a 3 pin connector on the bike, G being ground. Orange and light blue are your running lights. O/W and Lb/W are your turn signals. It looks like the connectors on the flushmounts are 2 pin, so go ahead and cut those off. You can either buy 2 OEM style connectors, or cut the ones off of your OEM signals leaving a few inches of wire, and solder the flushmounts and mirror wires to it. Blk to G, Y to O/W on the left, Y to Lb/W on the right. Isolate and insulate the O and Bl running light wires.
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Just got back from class/dinner!

Alright! I read all your posts and this is what I got so far.

I should cut the oem wires with the three pin (which will have 3 wires, green(ground), orange, white (which will be soldered with the yellow wires from my mirror/flush mounts). Since there is a orange wire AND a white wire, am I supposed to solder BOTH my yellow wires to to each of them? Or a yellow to an orange, and then the other yellow wire to the white?

Did that I interpret that correctly?

Heres a picture I found online and I used paint to show my understanding LOL

And I know I put the arrows near the connectors, but I did that because it showed the colors of the wires. I should solder where i marked "cut" correct?

picture.php


Is there a way to do it skoobies way with a 3 pin? Because if I understand you correctly, if I solder the flush mount/mirror wires together to the 3 wires from the oem signal and its connectors, wouldn't that mean it will be impossible to remove the mirrors without cutting its wires?
 
Orange/White is one wire. Its for the left side turn indicator. On the right there will be a Light blue/white wire. The yellows on your new indicators go to those wires on each respective sides. Blacks go to the green ground. The 3rd wire is unused, you will be ditching the running lights. You should cut half way between the light and the connector, so both pieces are reusable to some extent. Again, using the new connectors Danno linked instead of clipping yours off would be optimal, but there is a $20 minimum on that website. If you go that route, buy extra terminals for the connectors in case you mess up soldering on them. Also, go buy a few feet of wire and cut it up and practice soldering since you never have before. Heat the material from the bottom, then apply solder from the top, like in the picture in post #28.

After seeing your last pic, I realized I was looking at the CBR 600RR diagram instead of the F4i. The RR uses a 3 pin connector, the F4i uses a 2 pin for the turn and running light wires, and a separate 1 pin connector for the ground.

If you want the mirror wiring to be detachable, buy 4 female 2 pin connectors and 2 female 1 pin connectors from Dannos link. Buy heat shrink tubing (I think its available on that website also), extra terminals, and a few other connectors you think you might use for something later (to meet the $20 minimum).
 
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kgmoto said:
Orange/White is one wire. Its for the left side turn indicator. On the right there will be a Light blue/white wire. The yellows on your new indicators go to those wires on each respective sides. Blacks go to the green ground. The 3rd wire is unused, you will be ditching the running lights. You should cut half way between the light and the connector, so both pieces are reusable to some extent. Again, using the new connectors Danno linked instead of clipping yours off would be optimal, but there is a $20 minimum on that website. If you go that route, buy extra terminals for the connectors in case you mess up soldering on them. Also, go buy a few feet of wire and cut it up and practice soldering since you never have before.
Click to expand...

Ohhh, wait wait wait!! I want to have running lights still.

Like in this video, and in skoobie's pictures.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4qotWx2i3U
 
Ok. Disregard most of what Ive said about wiring colors. Looking at the diagram more, the wires with the white stripe are the running lights. They have constant power when the turn switch is in the off position, and the power is switched off when the turn signal is turned on. I was assuming since the turn signals are dual filament (or so it appears on the diagram), that they would constantly have the running light on, and only flash brighter when the turn signal is used. I was wrong. You should be fine by joining both the O and O/W wires together, and the Lb and Lb/W together. Ill upload a diagram in a few minutes. Boxes are connectors. Dots are solders. If I dont have it right this time, Im going to quit talking. :laughing


Scoobie, can you confirm that you joined the signal and running light wires on your bike?
 

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