Integrated LED Mirrors

[cschew]

 

[kgmoto]

Idk if the wires on the mirrors are long enough to reach down to the flush mounts. If they are, just cut off some of the wires on the mirrors and put a connector between them. If not, youll need to buy more wire.

I think you need to buy 2 male 2 pin connectors (for the mirrors), 4 female 2 pin connectors (2 for the mirrors, 2 to plug into the existing males on the bikes wiring harness), and 2 female 1 pin connectors (for the ground wires going to the bikes wiring harness).

Yes you can just strip instead of cutting, but remember to slide the heat shrink tube over the wire before you put on the connectors

 

[cschew]

I found a post for just soldering the flush mounts, but it doesn't include wiring led mirrors.

http://cbrforum.com/forum/how-mechanical-40/convert-2-wire-signals-3-wire-inputs-84998/

Whats the reason for the diodes?

EDIT: And do I need to put diodes in too?

 

[kgmoto]

To prevent current from going from the turn signal wire, thru the splice, back to the turn signal switch. I think they are unnecessary though, looking at the diagram of the turn signal switch. Continuity from the running light power source to the turn signals should be broken when you turn on that turn signal. You should test to make sure. Take your DMM, unplug the wires to the left signal. Stick black probe in ground, turn your left turn signal on. Stick the red probe into the O/W. If you see 0v, youre almost good. Turn the turn signal and the key off, switch to ohms and measure between the O and ground, then O/W and ground. If you get Open Line, youre definitely good. Current from your O wire isnt going to travel back up the O/W from your splice to the switch, and no power will go from the switch thru the running light to the turn signal, because there will be no continuity.

I may very well be wrong. Danno, point out why Im wrong please.

 

[cschew]

To prevent current from going from the turn signal wire, thru the splice, back to the turn signal switch. I think they are unnecessary though, looking at the diagram of the turn signal switch. Continuity from the running light power source to the turn signals should be broken when you turn on that turn signal. You should test to make sure. Take your DMM, unplug the wires to the left signal. Stick black probe in ground, turn your left turn signal on. Stick the red probe into the O/W. If you see 0v, youre good. Current from your O wire isnt going to travel back up the O/W from your splice to the switch and no power will go from the switch thru the running light to the turn signal, because there will be no continuity.

Whats a DMM?

 

[kgmoto]

A digital multi meter. I'll be up in San Jose this saturday thru wednesday. Throw all your parts in a backpack, come meet me, we'll get this taken care of.

 

[cschew]

A digital multi meter. I'll be up in San Jose this saturday thru wednesday. Throw all your parts in a backpack, come meet me, we'll get this taken care of.

I can't, I have school. I actually should be studying right now instead of doing this, but I'm procrastinating lol.

 

[kgmoto]

Well, the offers there if you can find some time. I'm better at testing and building hands on than I am at telling other people how to do stuff. I can test it with my DMM, twist some wires and make sure its working correctly, then solder it up quickly. IDK what other advice to give, Ill just wait for questions as you go.

I even have new connectors in my toolbox, no $20 minimum

 

[DannoXYZ]

I found a post for just soldering the flush mounts, but it doesn't include wiring led mirrors.

http://cbrforum.com/forum/how-mechanical-40/convert-2-wire-signals-3-wire-inputs-84998/

Whats the reason for the diodes?

EDIT: And do I need to put diodes in too?

That post from CBRforum is what you want to do. You are combining a 3-wire system that's meant to be used with the original dual-filament bulb into a 2-wire system that uses a single-filament bulb (or LED). You will just add the mirror lights to the flush-mounts with a Y-connection.

By connecting the O & O/W and B & B/W wires together, you've combined the turn-signals AND driving-lights together. Both your rear turn-signals and dash-indicators will turn into driving-lights and be on all the time. The function of the diodes are to keep the driving-light signal from running through your turn-signal wiring. Your front flush-mounts & mirror lights will be on from the driving-lights signal, yet your rear lights and dash-indicators will be off. Then when the turn-signal switch is flipped to left/right, BOTH your front & rear lights will flash in unison, like they should.

The CBRforum guide will work if you can follow it. You can re-use the two-pin connectors that came with the flush-mounts. But you'll re-wire it so that the connector carries the driving-lights and turn-signals power, while the black will connect to green-ground through a separate 1-pin connector. I can work up a diagram for you later if this or the CBRforum post doesn't make sense.

The trick to successfull wiring is to take it one step at a time, one wire at a time.

EDIT: Took a look at the wiring-diagram and you actually only need one diode per side. It goes on the turn-signal wire.

 

[kgmoto]

I was thinking the dash indicators might be what the diodes are for. But, the dual filament bulb to common ground is essentially a Y connector between the two wires, isnt it? In its OEM state, what is keeping the rear from acting as running lights, and the dash indicators off?

 

[DannoXYZ]

In the factory 3-wire system, the power for driving-lights is separate from turn-signals. The driving-light power goes through the front bulb and down to ground. It doesn't come back up out of ground, so it won't go through the turn-signal filament. So Y is OK for ground. In fact ALL of the grounds can be considered a common wire (multiple leg Y's).

It's just when you connect the separate power-lines before the bulb that the power ends up going everywhere. You end up creating an OR circuit going to a single filament.

Another way to look at it is to draw a circuit diagram and calculate the voltage drop across the bulb (V=IR). The voltage going into the bulb is +13v, but after the filament, it's 0v. There's no juice left to power anything on the ground side.

 

[skoobie snacks]

Wow this got confusing really fast lol

cschew: I don't want to be a prick, but the best thing for you to do is pick one of the many step by step options we are giving you and just do it. You are overthinking this way to much. I understand tht you want to learn and that's awsome I'm a strong believer in the "Teach a man to fish..." theory but at this point it's important that you keep it simple. If you run across a problem hit us up. If you would like ill give you my e-mail or cell numbr and you can txt me with any questions.....

As I said before disconect the battery before you start and you can't really mess anything up. Good luck my friend

 

[cschew]

That post from CBRforum is what you want to do. You are combining a 3-wire system that's meant to be used with the original dual-filament bulb into a 2-wire system that uses a single-filament bulb (or LED). You will just add the mirror lights to the flush-mounts with a Y-connection.

By connecting the O & O/W and B & B/W wires together, you've combined the turn-signals AND driving-lights together. Both your rear turn-signals and dash-indicators will turn into driving-lights and be on all the time. The function of the diodes are to keep the driving-light signal from running through your turn-signal wiring. Your front flush-mounts & mirror lights will be on from the driving-lights signal, yet your rear lights and dash-indicators will be off. Then when the turn-signal switch is flipped to left/right, BOTH your front & rear lights will flash in unison, like they should.

The CBRforum guide will work if you can follow it. You can re-use the two-pin connectors that came with the flush-mounts. But you'll re-wire it so that the connector carries the driving-lights and turn-signals power, while the black will connect to green-ground through a separate 1-pin connector. I can work up a diagram for you later if this or the CBRforum post doesn't make sense.

The trick to successfull wiring is to take it one step at a time, one wire at a time.

EDIT: Took a look at the wiring-diagram and you actually only need one diode per side. It goes on the turn-signal wire.

I read through everyone's replies and that guy's write up on the cbr forum and I think I follow, but if you can make a diagram for me to double check my understanding that'd be great!

Also, how do I form that Y connection between the flush mounts and the mirror's wires. Does that mean I just solder on the mirror's wires to the flush mount's wires?(It looks like I'm going to cut my mirror's wires and put a connector between them so the mirrors will be detachable =])

I think I can probably ask the guy at radio shack this, but I need to figure out how to attach those diodes.

 

[cschew]

Wow this got confusing really fast lol

cschew: I don't want to be a prick, but the best thing for you to do is pick one of the many step by step options we are giving you and just do it. You are overthinking this way to much. I understand tht you want to learn and that's awsome I'm a strong believer in the "Teach a man to fish..." theory but at this point it's important that you keep it simple. If you run across a problem hit us up. If you would like ill give you my e-mail or cell numbr and you can txt me with any questions.....

As I said before disconect the battery before you start and you can't really mess anything up. Good luck my friend

Well, the offers there if you can find some time. I'm better at testing and building hands on than I am at telling other people how to do stuff. I can test it with my DMM, twist some wires and make sure its working correctly, then solder it up quickly. IDK what other advice to give, Ill just wait for questions as you go.

I even have new connectors in my toolbox, no $20 minimum

Damn, I would totally take up this offer but school is taking up most of my time. Right now I'm going to gather all the materials and information and try to do this over winter break or something.

I still gotta learn how to solder and crap lol.

Should be fun though! (I hope)

 

[joedan]

im trying to do this same thing, with flush mounts, led mirrors, and led frame sliders. let me know how you ended up wiring it!

 

[DannoXYZ]

Collin, can you verify that your factory turn-signals have the connectors shown below?

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_eAGqfR6FyjY/SVZ5IS2_McI/AAAAAAAANxs/TqwbZipSoqM/s800/IMG_0816.JPG

You have two coloured wires on each of the 2-pin connectors and a green wire on the 1-pin connector? Can you take a close-up picture of the connectors? I'm going to have you make an adaptor harness for each side. On one end, it will have a set of plugs that connects to the factory connectors. On the other it, it will have two sets of plugs, one for the mirror light and one for the flush-mounts. That way, you can disconnect either one easily and no hacking of the factory wiring needed.

 

[cschew]

Collin, can you verify that your factory turn-signals have the connectors shown below?

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_eAGqfR6FyjY/SVZ5IS2_McI/AAAAAAAANxs/TqwbZipSoqM/s800/IMG_0816.JPG

You have two coloured wires on each of the 2-pin connectors and a green wire on the 1-pin connector? Can you take a close-up picture of the connectors? I'm going to have you make an adaptor harness for each side. On one end, it will have a set of plugs that connects to the factory connectors. On the other it, it will have two sets of plugs, one for the mirror light and one for the flush-mounts. That way, you can disconnect either one easily and no hacking of the factory wiring needed.

Yea, my factor signal lights are exactly wired like that(left side is a two pin(with solid orange and orange/white wire with a 1 pin green wire). Right side is the same but with a solid blue and blue/white wire on the two pin)

I'll take a close up picture tomorrow when there's some light. Here's a picture from earlier.

That two pin and 1 pin green is from the factor signal lights.

 

[DannoXYZ]

Ok, no need to take photos. We will have to scavenge the wiring from the factory turn-signals and clip off close to the bulb where you marked it.

The connector ends will plug into the stock harness. The clipped bare ends we will convert into two sets of connectors for the two lights. Back in a bit...

 

[DannoXYZ]

Ok, let's get you started while I work up a diagram. Prepare the wire-ends of the flush-mounts and mirror lights. First, you'll need some supplies:

4x male 4mm (0.157) bullet connectors, Frys has 19-pack for $1.99. Also available from auto-parts stores
4x female 4mm (0.157) bullet connectors, Frys has 7-pack for $1.99. Also available from auto-parts stores
2x 1N4001 diodes, probably from Radio Shack
stripping & crimping tool, $20 from Home Depot, I prefer the Klein tool which has a male/female die that makes a crescent-shape crimp that's better than other tool's flat or oval-shaped crimps.
2-3 ft of 1/8" shrink-wrap tubing
2-4 inches of 1/4" shrink-wrap tubing
electrical tape
soldering iron & rosin-core solder


FLUSH-MOUNTS

1. cut off the connector from the flush-mount lights. Leave 1/2" of wire on the connector so you can re-use it later if needed

2. strip 1/4" insulation from the ends of the wires going to the light

3. crimp on a female bullet connector onto the black ground wire of each light

4. crimp on a male bullet connector onto the yellow signal wire of each light


MIRROR LIGHTS

1. cut sufficient 1/8" shrink-wrap tubing to cover most of the length of wiring, leaving 1" at the end exposed

2. straighten wiring and slide both yellow & black wires through shrink-wrap tubing and heat with lighter to shrink

3. crimp on a female bullet connector onto the black ground wire of each light

4. crimp on a male bullet connector onto the yellow signal wire of each light


Now the lights are all set to plug into the adapter harness. Should look like this. Wire-lengths not drawn to scale, should be as long as possible.

Go ahead and install all the flush-mount and mirrors, we'll need to see where the cable-ends go to determine how much extra wiring is needed to reach them both from the factory connectors. Back with wiring diagram in a bit.

 

[DannoXYZ]

GROUND ADAPTER HARNESS

We will re-use the factory cable recovered from the old turn-signals to make the adapter-harness for the grounds next. No soldering needed, just crimping. Make sure the bike is OFF, key out of ignition.

You've got the flush-mounts and mirror lights mounted right? Pull their wires towards the factory connectors.

1. strip 10mm from the cut end of the green wire of the factory turn-signal wire.

2. Then plug in the old turn-signal green ground wire connector into the factory harness connector.

3. Pull the free end of the green wire towards the black/female-connector of the flush-mounts. Does it reach easily? Next, does it reach the black/female-connector of the mirror lights? If not, estimate the gap between the ends, call this distance GAP-X.

4. using a spare piece of wire (thin 22-18ga), cut it to length of GAP-X + 2 to 4 inches extra.

6. strip 10mm of insulation from each end of the wire

7. crimp on a male connector onto one of the ends

8. take the other free end of the wire and place it next to the green ground wire from the factory turn-signal. Tap the two ends so they end at the same spot. TWIST the two bare ends together so they from one braided wire. This is your Y-connection.

9. crimp a male connector over this twisted end.

10. plug the connector with the Y-connection into your flush-mount black/female ground wire

11. plug the other connector at the end of the extra wire into the mirror light's black/female ground wire.

12. repeat for other side of bike.

You've done 50%, halfway there! Now onto the power side of the wiring...