Ktm 890r

[ScottRNelson]

Those with low battery problems, I noticed a software glitch exists on my 2020 890 Duke. If you engage the kill switch while you're moving, the headlights remain on even after you come to a full stop and your key is removed from the ignition.

Be wary of this situation ...

That is weird. If I hit the kill switch while still moving on my 790 Adv R, the headlight stays on until I stop moving, then switches off. I do that occasionally when I have to cross town to get to the good riding and I've just filled up and want to see good mileage numbers even though I'll be stopped at about a dozen traffic lights. I can have it reading around 65 mpg at the other side of town doing that. Then it settles back to the 57 that I normally get once I make it to where the good riding is at.

 

[KooLaid]

this bike is a $ pit, I may post this up for sale if I get a full exhaust, I dont think it will mount up anymore

How much?

 

[FXCLM5]

koolaid, message me for the bellypan, now for some ktm shenanigans

The brake side passenger footpeg has 2 bolts and 1 has stripped threads, how would I go about to get the dealer to warranty this?

I am not the original owner, but know the original owner and they did not remove the passenger pegs at all.

I did not notice this till now, nobody has ridden passenger on the bike and its not like I go and bounce on the rear seat myself, I only noticed this when I went to install the pass peg sliders this weekend, I removed the c-clip then realized the pin didnt just drop out, thats when I tried to remove the 2 passenger bolts to get the entire unit in my hands so I can pound out the little pin thats held in by a c-clip.

Unfortunately the right bolt just kept turning.

Also the paint is all marred off - as if they had some weird issue during assembly on this bolt that is only evident on 1/4 of these bolt holes.

I looked at the microfiche and realized I need to remove the entire air box assembly to see the issue, which gets super puzzling cuz I cant find any instructions on how to remove it!

I need to check if the nut is welded onto the subframe piece or if its that weird bracket that is there for the intake air vent.

I thought I could fix this myself, but if the thread is actually part of the entire subframe piece, this has to be warrantied right? But I imagine fighting the dealer since they will just say its like 9 months old and now your just finding out.

So how would I go about to get a dealer to warranty this is my main question.

 

[Lonster]

Here's what I know after owning 2 of these myself, and having friends that have bought 2 more: None of the 4 bikes that I have had contact with had the passenger pegs attached from the factory. ALL 4 had a bag with the passenger seat, the passenger pegs and the extra bolts for removing the grab bar. So either the dealer installed the passenger pegs at the first owners request, or the first owner tried to install them himself. Whoever did the install must have stripped the bolt or the mounting threads. If it were me, I would make an appointment at your nearest KTM dealer and notify them that you would like them to warranty the removal and repair of the damaged bolt/mount.

 

[cg_ops]

Mine came with the passenger pegs installed. By chance, I happened to be there for work on my 701 and saw the first 890R that Mach 1 received being prepped to be put on the show room floor. They installed the pegs and stuff before they knew they weren't supposed to come installed on the 890Rs, only 790 and 890 non-R. I'm glad they came like that b/c I wouldn't have put them on myself and they definitely saved the tail from getting scrapped to hell in my spill.

 

[FXCLM5]

The original owner never got the spare bolts, I asked them but they never received it, most likely pegs were installed by selling dealer. I have the toolkit but I did ask og owner about the shorter passenger bolts in the event if I wanted to remove the grab handles and pass pegs (yes all 8 bolts should have been supplied)

Well guess I need to visit the dealer, and my local dealer doesn't want appointments, wants me to drop off in the am and hope they would finish it up within the same day or a couple days afterwards. This was not for this thread issue but for flashing the ECU for heated grips and cruise control.

Weird, can I make a appointment, naw just bring it in and hope it'll be done same day or a few days later!

Then I asked about the built in akrapovic maps, then he gives me a spiel that if they select a aftermarket tune the ECU does flash the map but disables all the lights, I kept trying to explain this would not work for the powerparts akrapovic full exhaust that is being sold, and he kept on stating those are aftermarket tunes and will swap the lights off.

I'm so confused cuz I met some guy who said his dealer will flash the 2 diff akra maps for $75 as many times as he wants going back and forth, no mention that it disables the street lights though.

 

[BigRich]

Like everyone here says…get it! And if you can find it, get it right away…they don’t last!!!

I’ve been hunting for like two long weeks and finally gave up and bought a CB1000R Black Edition instead.

Not the same I know…but I couldn’t find one and need to start rolling back into SF for work again. :/

 

[FXCLM5]

I was able to get one.

I will probably plastidip these colors when its more warm out

I was able to verify my speedo with gps and you guys are right, the speedo is pretty accurate +2/3 over actual gps speed up to about 75mph then its about 4mph over, so 77 indicated is approx 74-75mph, 85 indicate was approx 81mph.

 

[cg_ops]

Which belly pan is that and if you don't mind, how much was it? I was looking at some, like the S2-Concepts (steep-ish price) and Maxicabon (where I got my bodywork, but doesn't hold oil) but never pulled the trigger. Would yours actually hold oil, making it legit for racing?

 

[FXCLM5]

This is a S2 concepts bellypan, it would hold oil, it's got a pretty big lip on backside, there is no drain plug though. Cost is anywhere from $250-285 usd depending on $ conversion/shipping

 

[FXCLM5]

This am hard to start, then got to work and realized my dash reset both trips by itself.

Anybody seen this issue before?

Bikes been commuted on daily all week, battery should be fine

 

[cg_ops]

No, but my "Bring me in for service" light just came on with no codes or info to tell me why, so that's been fun. Every time I start/stop the motor it takes over the whole dash until I click a button to exit it.

But I did get the chance to fart around on it and use my GoPro for the first time in like 1.5 years on Monday, so that was nice!

[YOUTUBE]HaWff4V4fV4[/YOUTUBE]

 

[planegray]

This am hard to start, then got to work and realized my dash reset both trips by itself.

Anybody seen this issue before?

Bikes been commuted on daily all week, battery should be fine

No, but my "Bring me in for service" light just came on with no codes or info to tell me why, so that's been fun. Every time I start/stop the motor it takes over the whole dash until I click a button to exit it.

But I did get the chance to fart around on it and use my GoPro for the first time in like 1.5 years on Monday, so that was nice!

[YOUTUBE]HaWff4V4fV4[/YOUTUBE]

Hilarious read about 790/ 890 fault codes all due to crap battery

https://www.790dukeforum.com/threads/immobilizer-failure-official-thread-for-all-immobfails.358/

I found a Yuasa lead acid that fits my 2020 790 Duke. I'll add the p/n here when I get home.

After reading that thread I pasted I started monitoring my battery voltage during starts. Sure enough, it would get down to eight something volts during start. I didn't have any problems so I kept riding it but I did buy the Yuasa battery just in case. Sure enough one day on the way to work that little machine started throwing codes like nobody's business. Battery change seems to have fixed all that and now it never drops below 10 volts during start.

 

[ScottRNelson]

No, but my "Bring me in for service" light just came on with no codes or info to tell me why, so that's been fun. Every time I start/stop the motor it takes over the whole dash until I click a button to exit it.

There are ways to reset that permanently. Mine came on at the one year mark, but I wanted to wait a few more months, then I found out that service appointments were a month and a half out anyway. I reset it so that it would stop annoying me. I'm sure somebody on AdvRider in the KTM Parallel World sub-forum has full instructions on how to do it.

 

[FXCLM5]

Hmm can you advise what screen you are leaving it on to check the bat voltage when starting imma start doing this and recording it

End of warranty is coming up on the bike in April/May

I need to get dealer to at least record these issues now while it's still in warranty, maybe I can push for a new battery before warranty goes up.

Leaky valve cover
Recalibrate quickshifter
Stripped pass bolt
Possible charging system shenanigans, 2 issues no start or barely staring and incident where both trips resetting by itself

 

[ScottRNelson]

Hmm can you advise what screen you are leaving it on to check the bat voltage when starting imma start doing this and recording it

On my 2020 790 Adv R, I can choose up to eight things that are displayed on the main screen. Mine shows:

• Trip 1 miles
• MPG 1
• Trip 2 miles
• MPG 2
• Date
• Odometer
• Battery

I really like being able to see the battery voltage after living with a 2008 990 Adv that seemed like it was always having battery issues.

 

[EEL]

From my KTM Forum that I am also on.

This is the clearest description and worked for me

Save it somewhere

• From the main menu, select "Trips/Data".
• Scroll down until "Settings" is highlighted (not "Service"), but don't actually enter the "Settings" menu.
• Press the Up and Down arrows simultaneously for 5 sec, and the service interval menu will appear.
• Adjust mileage and month fields (1 - 12) as desired, then press and hold the Set button until the change registers

 

[cg_ops]

Alternatively you can use something like this, which is what I use to charge my phone/gopro and keep an eye on voltage.

It's nice always knowing exactly what charge level the battery is without having to navigate through the display menus

Mine is typically between 12.5-13.2v when the bike is off, depend on how long its sat since the last use. (12.9v in the pic, after sitting for 10min with the key on, engine off, after a long ride)

 

[planegray]

Hmm can you advise what screen you are leaving it on to check the bat voltage when starting imma start doing this and recording it

End of warranty is coming up on the bike in April/May

I need to get dealer to at least record these issues now while it's still in warranty, maybe I can push for a new battery before warranty goes up.

Leaky valve cover
Recalibrate quickshifter
Stripped pass bolt
Possible charging system shenanigans, 2 issues no start or barely staring and incident where both trips resetting by itself

Trips resetting is another "known issue"

Imo they can keep their crappy "stock" battery. I didn't even bother to involve my warranty on this issue. I wanted the Yuasa.... p/n YT12A BS AGM battery.

I agree with the additional voltmeter display, I'm working on doing that too

Imo the only useful test of battery condition is a load test. Short of having your own carbon pile load bank, monitoring voltage during start is an owner/ operators next best thing.

In conversations with IT people I trust, I've learned that low voltage plays havoc with vehicle computers.

 

[FXCLM5]

Lol my last bike had known stator issues - tuono v4.

This next bike I guess has random electrical issues.

Both aftermarket solutions were installing a live digital volt meter