Z3n
Squid.
I'd just add to Keith's post to make sure that once you have the lever in the right spot, you should tighten down the lock nuts to make sure the lever doesn't move any more or come loose afterwards. I've had it happen and it's not fun. 


I'd just add to Keith's post to make sure that once you have the lever in the right spot, you should tighten down the lock nuts to make sure the lever doesn't move any more or come loose afterwards. I've had it happen and it's not fun.![]()

Oh yes, one more thing. You shouldn't rely on the engine braking to slow you down for corners, you should rely on the front brake to do that job. So even if you were in 3rd for a 1st gear corner you still have more control over the slowing down process with the front brake than you can ever have with the engine.
Beside that, you shouldn't be riding that fast on the street for this to be a problem! Get to one of the local track day providers or come to school for that.
Keith
Keith,
Do you recommend always using the front brake to set entry sped into a turn as a habit, and to never rely just on engine braking? I think one of the books I read (probably hough's) made this recommendation, and so I used to do that. But when I was touring in Europe with some racer friends of mine (much better riders than me), they suggested using engine braking if I could as that would make me smoother. So I've been doing that preferentially. Your comment below makes me question this now?
Thx much. Incidentally, I think it is excellent that you do this, and I'm saving up to come back to CSS (loved level 1 at sears point back in October).![]()
Keith...
This just makes me smile... "27 BMW S1000RRs --OMG"![]()
Danibee,
First thing to do is sit on the bike in your normal riding position and check the gear lever position. If it is too low you have to reach for it and under acceleration that alone can create the problem.
In this case loosen the adjuster lock nuts and rotate the the threaded tube to raise the lever. Just make the lock nuts finger tight. Get back on the bike and see if it is easier to pull the shift lever from that position. Keep on adjusting it till it is just right for you.
GP pattern is easier upshifting for most people and it shouldn't take you long to master it. If you flip the pivot arm to reverse the pattern you will still have to adjust the lever for perfect up/down positioning.
Oh yes, one more thing. You shouldn't rely on the engine braking to slow you down for corners, you should rely on the front brake to do that job. So even if you were in 3rd for a 1st gear corner you still have more control over the slowing down process with the front brake than you can ever have with the engine.
Beside that, you shouldn't be riding that fast on the street for this to be a problem! Get to one of the local track day providers or come to school for that.
Keith
And yes. A public road is not a closed track. Your awesome for all you do buddy! Hi Keith! Can I ask a quick question?
How to conquer the fear of lean in on a turn when there are some hazards out there (slippery road, blind corners, turn entry speed, etc)?
not a question, just a statement...
I love your column/editorial in motorcyclist, after initially browsing all the pictures it's usually the first bit of words I actually readThanks
![]()

Hi,
I hope this thread is still alive...
Anyway, I have a question for Keith regarding training. I started racing supermoto last season and really enjoy it. While I do understand roadracing and supermoto are different (I have done both), some training elements are the same (quick flick, wide vision, RPs...).
Here is my question: In order of importance, what should a beginner like me start working on?
So far I am guessing:
1- Body position / movements on the bike
2- Wide vision / 2 step technique / RPs
3- Throttle control
4- Lean angle
5- Quick flick
6- Lines
7- Braking
Does that seem like the right order? I am thinking about tackling 2 or 3 per trackday.
Thanks.
PS: I read all the 35 pages, and it is a great addition to the books and the DVD on some points.
Keith please show the truth to all who think that they can get there bike to respond to putting weight on the pegs (your book explains it soo beautifully!! still people think differently... how, i have no clue!) my bikes have always repsonded to pushing on the bars but i still hear people swear that pushing on the pegs works! BTW... another question, HOW MUCH DO YOU LOVVE TO BMW's vs: the older 636 fleet you ran. Also last one, can I borrow the slide machine and take it to 9? lol CSBS is a great program to all that are interested!

Hi Keith, Dylan,
Thank you for the quick response!
I guess I will start on throttle control and lines then!
As far as self coaching goes, I understand why it is not ideal (you covered it earlier in the thread), but I do not have much options: I just had a baby (Eva, 5 month old now!), so I do not have the time and money to go to the track as much as I should.
However I am still training on some of the items as I found a good and cheap to do so: my car.
Since I use it every day for commute I figured I could use that time to trying to limit my number of inputs during turns, find RPs, and roll on the gas. I even train my wide vision (I have a piece of tape on the steering wheel with "Wide Open" written on it to remind me). We'll see if it works.![]()