R1200RT-P Touring Conversion/Mods Question Thread!

[Tri750]

Try this:
http://www.bmwmc.net/Media/Media.aspx?uid_media=69&uid_media_type=2

 

[EvilStig]

Try this:
http://www.bmwmc.net/Media/Media.aspx?uid_media=69&uid_media_type=2

Marvelous, thanks.

I did run into an unpleasant surprise... I designed my system with a 2-filament brake light bulb in mind, but I'm seeing now it only uses single filaments.

I was planning on tapping into the tail light line to operate an ignition-switched relay for several circuits, and also tapping into the brake light line to operate another relay to run my third brake light flasher.

But since they're one and the same, both these options seem to be off the table. Is there another wire I can tap into that will give me 12v whenever the ignition is on, so I can run my accessory relay? Also, is there any way to pick up a 12v signal when the brakes are activated?

 

[Tri750]

The CANbus isn't going to like it.
The Kisan flasher is specific for the CANbus bikes, sometimes you can use the extra power port pigtail as they allow some draw before they smell a rat and shut down.
As example, they allow you to power a heated vest but only up to size XL for example as the big boy sizes draw too many amps. LED's should be fine.
Here's the link to the full PD site that has all the wiring diagrams for the different versions they made.
You can figure out how to navigate it but don't get too generous with it as it's supposed to be for Fleet Department PD use. There's no password but be respectful of it.
http://www.bmwmc.net/Gallery/Gallery.aspx
To nag you again, some departments tweak the wiring to suit their needs so watch that, AND when you find power you like, let it ride for a while before you start the victory dance as the CANbus will shut you down within a minute if it doesn't like your addition plus some circuits are on timers .

 

[EvilStig]

The CANbus isn't going to like it.
The Kisan flasher is specific for the CANbus bikes, sometimes you can use the extra power port pigtail as they allow some draw before they smell a rat and shut down.
As example, they allow you to power a heated vest but only up to size XL for example as the big boy sizes draw too many amps. LED's should be fine.
Here's the link to the full PD site that has all the wiring diagrams for the different versions they made.
You can figure out how to navigate it but don't get too generous with it as it's supposed to be for Fleet Department PD use. There's no password but be respectful of it.
http://www.bmwmc.net/Gallery/Gallery.aspx
To nag you again, some departments tweak the wiring to suit their needs so watch that, AND when you find power you like, let it ride for a while before you start the victory dance as the CANbus will shut you down within a minute if it doesn't like your addition plus some circuits are on timers .

I don't really intend to run anything off the CANbus system except for relays. All the accessories themselves (including the power ports) are going to be wired into an aux fuse box connected directly to the battery. I don't think the relays should draw enough current to trip the CANbus, so I should be safe there (knock on wood).

However, to run my relay logic, I need the following inputs:
--Ignition
--Brake

I found a capped connector under the radio box with Green/White and Brown wires, and on a hunch, snipped, stripped, and connected the multimeter to it, and it seems to supply 12v when the ignition is on, so I have my ignition source. Now I just need brake. I bought a generic programmable delay flasher relay with pots for flash speed and time, and have it connected to a pair of red Whelen TIR3 1-watt LED modules. Problem is, I don't know if the "dim" tail/running light voltage (or worse... is it pulse modulated 12v?) will cause it to wig out, since it's really only designed to operate on/off with 12 volts.

EDIT: It looks like I might be able to get the brake module to work off the brake light wire, although getting the relay to work is more iffy... will try using it without the relay and see what happens.

 

[Tri750]

Yea, you possibly are overcomplicatibg things .
Many if not all the smaller lights have their own flash circuitry built in .
Us cave dwellers use a 9v battery (old term, transistor radio battery) to fire them up on the bench to test operation and to see if they have the built in flash pattern .

 

[EvilStig]

Yea, you possibly are overcomplicatibg things .
Many if not all the smaller lights have their own flash circuitry built in .
Us cave dwellers use a 9v battery (old term, transistor radio battery) to fire them up on the bench to test operation and to see if they have the built in flash pattern .

Oh they do, but I don't want them to flash constantly, only for a second after hitting the brake, then go solid. They don't have a built-in function to do that, and I don't want to annoy people with city driving etc.

 

[danate]

Hey! Just found this thread. I just picked up a 2011 R1200RT-P and I'm in the slow process of figuring it out. It has all the lights intact and they still work, however under the radio box there are two grey bundles of wires that were cut through and I'm guessing they were for the siren/radio stuff. None of the LEDs on the extra handlebar controls light up, but most of the switches work. I'm also looking to tap into the speaker system and add a bluetooth as I plan on doing a lot of parking lot work with the bike and it'd be cool to have the speakers working.

Only problem the bike has is a rough/slow turnover. Voltages look okay and it has a brand new main battery, but I need to get it starting more reliably. Mostly it doesn't like to turn over after it's been running for a while and needs to sit for a few minutes.

Anyways, I've joined the RTP club! Mine is designated to be my parking lot training and alternative commuter bike (my main ride is a '13 R1200RT).

 

[EvilStig]

Hey! Just found this thread. I just picked up a 2011 R1200RT-P and I'm in the slow process of figuring it out. It has all the lights intact and they still work, however under the radio box there are two grey bundles of wires that were cut through and I'm guessing they were for the siren/radio stuff. None of the LEDs on the extra handlebar controls light up, but most of the switches work. I'm also looking to tap into the speaker system and add a bluetooth as I plan on doing a lot of parking lot work with the bike and it'd be cool to have the speakers working.

The harness is an inextricable mess, so I wish you the best of luck in figuring it out and repairing it if that's what you intend to do. If you just want to add your own farkle to the switches, I highly recommend snipping the wires before the harness and running your own wiring to the switch.

I'd definitely start finding and capping/sealing all the stray wires that they might have snipped, and removing the Code3 box under the seat if you don't need it, to eliminate battery leeching. Also remove the spare battery and cap those wires, too. Then you can start isolating the starter problem. Could be it needs better grounding. Also, you need to test the voltages under load to know if the battery is good.

I ended up removing all the lights on mine and replacing them with my own (spot/flood, and Whelen TIR3 amber flashers), made some brackets for mounting up other accessories, and I removed the speakers... used that space to install my custom wiring harnesses instead. I originally had the same idea as you, but the bike has no radio, and you'd be hard pressed to find space to install one, or to find one that's adequately weatherproofed. I don't know what the regular RT radio looks like though, so you might have some ideas there.

 

[danate]

The harness is an inextricable mess, so I wish you the best of luck in figuring it out and repairing it if that's what you intend to do. If you just want to add your own farkle to the switches, I highly recommend snipping the wires before the harness and running your own wiring to the switch.

I'd definitely start finding and capping/sealing all the stray wires that they might have snipped, and removing the Code3 box under the seat if you don't need it, to eliminate battery leeching. Also remove the spare battery and cap those wires, too. Then you can start isolating the starter problem. Could be it needs better grounding. Also, you need to test the voltages under load to know if the battery is good.

I ended up removing all the lights on mine and replacing them with my own (spot/flood, and Whelen TIR3 amber flashers), made some brackets for mounting up other accessories, and I removed the speakers... used that space to install my custom wiring harnesses instead. I originally had the same idea as you, but the bike has no radio, and you'd be hard pressed to find space to install one, or to find one that's adequately weatherproofed. I don't know what the regular RT radio looks like though, so you might have some ideas there.

Interesting stuff. I have been on the fence about pulling all the code 3 stuff out, mainly because have no clue how it's wired and don't want to mess anything up. I like the idea of having some rear amber flashers and I was thinking of using the front light pods to house a camera or something (and harvesting the current wiring harness to provide power). I'd like to check out your setup sometime and see what you've done.

I really want to keep the speakers as I like using them at lower speeds and parking lot stuff. If I could find the wires that feed the speakers, I'd just get a compact 2 channel car amp and add a bluetooth receiver straight in (the BMW stereo is excessively complicated).

As far as my starting voltages, it has a brand new main battery. Resting voltage is around 12.8-13 and when cranking I've seen it drop as low as 10 just for a second. It appears to be charging fine as well at 13.5 at idle and up near 14 with 2-3k RPM (and the aux battery starts charging as well at that point).

They didn't tear up the harness too bad, just cut two bundles of about 4-5 wires each. There are connectors all over the bike, however, that are unused. I don't think I need most of them, but I'd like to figure some of it out. There are already relays set up for most of the switches, so I suppose I could remove the code 3 box and just use the relays to run any accessories I wanted.

 

[EvilStig]

Interesting stuff. I have been on the fence about pulling all the code 3 stuff out, mainly because have no clue how it's wired and don't want to mess anything up. I like the idea of having some rear amber flashers and I was thinking of using the front light pods to house a camera or something (and harvesting the current wiring harness to provide power). I'd like to check out your setup sometime and see what you've done..

Man it's kinda a fustercluck and I didn't document it real well with pictures... but here's a diagram I whipped up while designing it.

I used my own relays instead of the blade of them stuck in the tail housing, but then my wiring harness was already cut up real well so I didn't know what I could trust. I also don't really know what kinds of gremlins might be in the system if you try and just hook stuff up and run it off the CODE3 box, especially since it's designed to be used with that second battery.

For the camera I just tucked one behind the windshield and the other inside the tail light housing. I installed the DVR in my dash behind an acrylic window... tucked inside the speaker housing on one side.

If you want to use the speakers, they're not hard to remove and rewire. Just 3 or 4 screws holding each housing in, and each housing contains one midrange speaker and one tweeter. They're currently wired in parallel. Just snip the wires to the rest of the bike and wire in your own amp if you want.

And if you need spare/replacement speakers, let me know, I got mine sitting in a box in the garage.

 

[Tri750]

Let's start with how many miles are on the bike?
Some agencies put stickers under the radio box lid about next service or speedo replacement that will help you determine how many miles are on the bike really and or when the next service is.
If the starter grinds, sounds like an air starter on a truck, ( like a 1/2" impact gun then cranks) you can get an aftermarket starter pretty cheap.
What brand battery is the main?
12.8 is just over the "gotta have" of 12.7.
The external speakers are terrible. If you want to be " the guy with the terrible sounding speakers" in the parking lot, try it, what the heck.

If you have any Code 3 lights or siren speaker that works, I may have a buyer for you but they don't bring much in the real world.
Deal with the starter before it gets worse and begins to damage other parts.
So, miles?

 

[danate]

15k miles currently. I bought it with 12ish and rode it back from Missouri. Runs like a top other than the starting issue. It has a salvage title from clipping a deer with the right crash bar and a few scrapes and has been repaired. It sat for a while as the last service due date was March 2015 and it had some low voltage and "long term low voltage" codes stored. Nothing else really relevant in the computer.

Starter doesn't grind, just sounds like it's not getting enough power. I've tried a few batteries in it and they all wind up down around 12.8, so maybe they're not charging well enough or the drain from the code 3 package is too much. Current battery is an Odyssey PC680 (brand new). I have a video of it cranking over I'll upload later tonight. The aux battery may be original and toast as well. When I rode the bike home, I left it disconnected and pulled all the fuses to the code 3 stuff, but it still had the cranking problem.

I have the full code 3 lights setup working along with the BMW siren speaker (though it was disconnected). If someone wanted to buy it I'd be open to the idea.

I don't think the speakers are so bad at lower levels. I've used them on my two other RTs and they do fine for cruising around town. They become worthless over 50mph, but for that I use my Sena and earplugs (I actually use it 99% of the time, but I like having the speaker option).

That wiring diagram is awesome, but I am an electronics noob, so it'll take me a while to figure out. Just got my ham license, so some of it looks familiar .

 

[EvilStig]

Very nice! Much cleaner than mine.... don't sell that rear light pod, it's unobtanium, and leaves a bunch of ugly holes in the radio cover.

I'm no expert in these bikes, but it sounds like the sort of electrical issues that can be a real bitch to diagnose, due to the code 3 wiring harness etc. I'd probably start with pulling all the tupperware off and going over the whole bike, capping/sealing every loose wire, removing components you don't need, etc... and then if that doesn't do it, going over the whole electrical system using this method: [PDF link] and go from there. If you're lucky it's some component that's easy to replace. Unlucky, and it could be something inside the harness and you gotta rip that whole thing out and rewire it from scratch....

 

[Tri750]

Remember that the aux battery only runs the radio (when installed) and the emergency lights.
Has nothing to do with anything else.
Before you get too excited about the siren amp, (the controller for all the lights) make sure it's fully functioning . They have a short lifespan and in one of the earlier posts, there's a link to the bmw police site that gives details on troubleshooting it.
The key is having a fully charged battery before you start testing.
See what voltage is reaching the starter , you could have a bad ground or a dirty starter inside.
With that few a miles, I would be suspicious of everything.

 

[danate]

I've undressed the bike once already and all the connectors on the inside are clean and uncut and anything unused looks like it was capped at the factory.

The only cut wires are two grey ones under the radio box, one of which had the mic connector formerly attached to it and the other looked like it went into the code 3 box. The rest of the code 3 package seems to work fine, so while there may be faulty units out there, if it works it works...

I tried making a video of the starting issue, but of course it worked fine this time. There is definitely a slight battery drain on the main battery, and I noticed that when the aux battery is disconnected, all the police lights still work.

I will have to take the bike out and give it a work out and try to recreate the issue, then test voltages. As of now, when I shut it off, the battery drops to around 13v and hangs there for a while.

 

[Tri750]

If the starter is ok cold, but drags hot, then it could be just dirty inside, but again, with that few miles..... unusual.
But better than spending 200 on an aftermarket starter.
If you access it, check incoming voltage and if the main cable is tight.
if good to go, then pull it and either you or a competent soul take apart, clean, inspect, lube, re-assemble.

 

[danate]

It "drags" cold the first time, but after that I can shut it off and restart it several times and it fires right up. Then once it's hot it needs a few minutes to restart.

The bike came from a dept in Colorado, so it most likely only saw seasonal use and did a lot of sitting.

 

[danate]

So I did some more testing and I'm pretty sure the starter is fine and the code 3 package is causing a huge battery drain as soon as the bike is turned on. Starter voltage matches the battery voltage and starts fine when above 12.8. Bike sits at 13.2v immediately after switching off and stays at 13 or so when sitting for a while. As soon as I switch on the ignition, it starts dropping and gets down to 12.5 or lower within about 30 seconds.

I pulled all the fuses to the code 3 stuff I could find, but I can't seem to find a main power harness for it to disable it altogether. I may need help getting it disconnected. At this point, I feel like I should just remove it and find an alternative method to set up amber warning lights like Mr Stig did. If you had the time to help me with it, I'd sure appreciate it. Otherwise I may take it up to A&S powersports who is familiar with the cop bikes.

 

[danate]

Never mind the last post now. I tested my other RT and it does the exact same voltage drop upon turning on the ignition, only it starts up fine at 12.4 or 12.5 volts...

 

[Sabian]

Here's my 09....



The previous owner replaced one of the modules, also had the wiring redone by the local Beemer Dealership because they had done such a hatchet job when they removed the Code 3 wiring that it was having grounding issues. Mine has 47k, runs great.