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Smog Test- Deceptive Practice?

Dude mechanics have to make money too. If there is a fault code appearing it needs a diagnostic which costs money. Why is the guy ripping her off just because he is charging his posted shop rate to work on the vehicle? You now how much a smog machine costs? Or a good scanner? If you don't like it,you are free to take your vehicle somewhere else.
 
There's making money, and then there's telling somebody their transmission needs to be rebuilt because of a CEL when it likely just needs the fluid changed and the valve body replaced. $2 grand vs. probably 4 or 5 hundred bucks.
 
I agree w/ you Mark that equipment costs money and they need to make a living too.
but I think its bogus to charge me for a test they know I am going to fail, when they could have said so and encouraged me instead to spend the money on the diagnostic so I would know 1) if there really was a problem since he says the codes are no guarantee and 2) give me some repair options once they knew the problem.

Taking $ for a test they already knew I would be unable to pass isn't the best way to prove you're the kind of shop I want to do business with.
 
P0155 - 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
This code refers to the front oxygen sensor on Bank 2. The heated circuit in the oxygen sensor decreases time needed to enter closed loop. As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECM tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. It the ECM determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set P0155.

Causes
A code P0155 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
O2 Heater element resistance is high
Internal short or open in the heater element
O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance
open or short to ground in the wiring harness
Possible Solutions
Repair short or open or high resistance in wiring harness or harness connectors
Replace oxygen sensor (cannot repair open or short that occurs internally to sensor)

DTC P1870 Transmission Component Slipping
Circuit Description
The VCM monitors the difference between engine speed and transmission output speed. In D3 drive range with the TCC engaged, the engine speed should closely match the transmission output speed. In D4 drive range, with the TCC engaged, the TCC slip speed should be -20 to +20 RPM.

When the VCM detects excessive TCC slip when the TCC should be engaged, then DTC P1870 sets. DTC P1870 is a type A DTC.
- Internal transmission failures could set a DTC P1870.
- A TFP Valve Position Switch malfunction could set a DTC P1870.
 
Idontdotrix said:
so I just got off the phone with the number listed on the test- being told until those codes are cleared they will not pass my vehicle regardless of what emissions read.
also being told that the second code for 'transmission slipping' will require a complete tran overhaul at a cost of about 2K.

I'm going to go drink hemlock now.
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Get them to put that about the trans in writing. They are trying to rip you.
 
^ In (chick speak) English please? with a ballpark of what an honest shop would run to repair it?

and I truly truly appreciate you taking the time to help me understand this, the whole thing is scaring the bejeebus out of me
 
MikeV you should be clear in letting Dani know that as evidence you did not post Edmunds.com's opinion but a comment posted on http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com of someone named guyonearth. So I do not disagree with you that low fluid "may" be the cause, I would just caution her on not following the blind advice of someone with an opinion on a web bulletin board without any real justification for his opinion. You can take that to mean you, me or guyonearth...
 
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I did say that I pulled it from edmunds via a google search.

That said, transmissions don't just "need overhauls" when they aren't exhibiting any problems. That's just common sense.
 
#1Freak said:
i have a thing you can plug into teh ODBII port and clear the codes, hopefully the test will not cuase the computer to throw them again....

Brian
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clearing the codes is not enough. in my obd2 car, it needs to cycle and pass some systems. that's where the light might be triggered to turn on again. something like 3 out of 5 systems must pass readiness on my car.
 
stan23 said:
Best thing to do is ask them to read the code using an OBD1 or OBDII reader (depends on your year) and see exactly what is causing the fault code.
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Which you can do yourself by going to Kragen's or AutoZone and simply renting it for 10 minutes. You'll get all your money back when you return it.

Plug in underneath your steering wheel, push some buttons and waaalaaa - you'll have your answer.
 
Dove said:
Which you can do yourself by going to Kragen's or AutoZone and simply renting it for 10 minutes. You'll get all your money back when you return it.

Plug in underneath your steering wheel, push some buttons and waaalaaa - you'll have your answer.
Click to expand...

You must have missed my other post :p
 
Dove said:
Which you can do yourself by going to Kragen's or AutoZone and simply renting it for 10 minutes. You'll get all your money back when you return it.

Plug in underneath your steering wheel, push some buttons and waaalaaa - you'll have your answer.
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i thought they didnt loan/rent out code readers anymore?

danni, if it were me id replace the 02 sensor and clear the trans codes. then take it somewhere else
 
So who wants to hear from a professional mechanic about all this?


Idontdotrix said:
now, this light was on when they took it to test it. the guy goes on to inform me any check engine or service soon light is an automatic failure, regardless of actual emissions- mine were well within normal.
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The "check engine" light sometimes has very little to do with how well the car feels like it's running. The light's main purpose is to tell when the computer has detected a failure in an emission control system. And if there's a failure in a computer controlled/monitored emission control system, then of course you fail an emission test.

gogounited said:
Go somewhere else, they're tring to rob you. Any decent mechanic can turn the check engine light off with little or no trouble at all. You may be able to do it yourself by looking up the make/model online.
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The old clear the code and then go get the test done before the light comes back on trick sounds good, but unfortunately there's a catch. By clearing the codes, or clearing the computer's memory, you erase another memory. There's several self tests that the computer does on the emission control systems. They're called monitors. Part of the smog test is to see if the montiors have all run and passed. Of course if a monitor runs (which takes two complete drive cycles) and doesn't pass. then the check engine light comes on. There's no way around it. Other than maybe finding a shop that just looks the other way.
 
TheRobSJ said:
So who wants to hear from a professional mechanic about all this?




The "check engine" light sometimes has very little to do with how well the car feels like it's running. The light's main purpose is to tell when the computer has detected a failure in an emission control system. And if there's a failure in a computer controlled/monitored emission control system, then of course you fail an emission test.



The old clear the code and then go get the test done before the light comes back on trick sounds good, but unfortunately there's a catch. By clearing the codes, or clearing the computer's memory, you erase another memory. There's several self tests that the computer does on the emission control systems. They're called monitors. Part of the smog test is to see if the montiors have all run and passed. Of course if a monitor runs (which takes two complete drive cycles) and doesn't pass. then the check engine light comes on. There's no way around it. Other than maybe finding a shop that just looks the other way.
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I gotcha on that. :thumbup I just think for the OP, that fixing everything by the book is not quite an option, given her budget.

Last time I got a vehicle checked for emissions, some 8 years ago now, it failed miserably, and I found out it didn't even have an exhaust manifold, catalytic converter, or any type of those guts. :laughing I wound up selling it to some guy as a ranch truck, but it really screwed me out of a running vehicle at a bad, bad time.

You do what you can.
 
I thought that it was the seller's responsibility to make sure the vehicle passes smog?? Or, is that just the rule if you purchase the vehicle in-state?
 
Idontdotrix said:
I agree w/ you Mark that equipment costs money and they need to make a living too.
but I think its bogus to charge me for a test they know I am going to fail, when they could have said so and encouraged me instead to spend the money on the diagnostic so I would know 1) if there really was a problem since he says the codes are no guarantee and 2) give me some repair options once they knew the problem.

Taking $ for a test they already knew I would be unable to pass isn't the best way to prove you're the kind of shop I want to do business with.
Click to expand...

But how would you feel if they didn't run the entire smog test and just told you that the CEL is an automatic fail... You would have turned around, asked the BARFers what those codes mean, spent the $2,000 (shop) or $400 (DIY, just a guess based on others), but would still have no idea if it would or would not pass the sniff test.

It would really suck to have spent the $400 and have the van still fail the sniff test. In the end, the $50 smog test is cheap insurance to know that after you pay good money for the CEL fix, your van will pass.
 
To teh OP: TheRobSJ's advise so far has been the only really reliable advise. I worked on cars for way too long, my father still runs his shop to this day.

1) You will fail the test if there is a transmission code, this is b/c if a transmission is having problems it is usually putting more load on the engine, thus -- usually -- causing more pollutants to be emitted.

2) Try and get a free trans opinion from Maaco (they still offer a free inspection, I believes).

3) Don't waste your time pulling battery cables & clearing codes until you take care of the trans b/c it is a total waste of bloody time.

4) I understand you may be in a tight spot for money. Google Consumer Assistance Program and they should be able to help you up to about 5 or 6 hundred bucks at participating garages (Gov't helps pay for your repairs).

5) Hope this helps you get the battlevan back on the road. Those trannys have a tendency to throw that code, so I advocate hitting up a trans shop first, preempting any and all conversations with your current financial situation.
 
fixing it is most definitely an option, I just want to be sure Im being told honestly what I do and do not need.
if its out of my budget then I have decisions to make. I dont want to get told Im looking at 2K worth or work when that may not be true.
 
ElHundo said:
2) Try and get a free trans opinion from Maaco (they still offer a free inspection, I believes).
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I think you mean Aamco, not Maaco.

One is a transmission shop, the other paints cars. What do I know, though. :twofinger
 
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