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Street Riding Tips/Review/Notes

jeremiahmoto

New member
Joined
Apr 1, 2025
Location
Ventura
Moto(s)
2024 Suzuki GSX-8R
In my efforts to unlock the illustrious PMs feature (and I guess also review some stuff I've learned) I'll be posting notes here as I progress through different moto books and content. Aiming to do one post per day! EDIT 7/13/25: Nahhh, more like one post per whenever. Lol.
Starting with Lee Park's Total Control 2nd Ed...

#1: Riding a motorcycle is an exercise in traction management. Traction available (TA) must always be greater than or equal to traction required (TR).
Methods to manage TA through Tires:
- Tire pressure. This is a trade-off between traction and longevity of the tire. Lower than stock tire pressure may give you a larger contact patch and thus more traction, however less longevity. Vice versa for higher. As a general rule, follow the manufacturer's guidelines.​
- Temperature/Compound. More important with race tires, but the physics are universal: higher temperatures = more compliant rubber and thus greater traction, at the risk of exceeding its design temperature and degradation. Conversely, cold tires conform less to the road surface and will give you less traction.​
- Age. Tires are perishable, and subject to dry rot/cracking/failing if left out for too long.​
- Size/Profile. It's important to verify this, as the wrong size/profile can significant affect the location of the contact patch along your tire at max lean. In some cases, you may make it impossible for yourself/significantly lowering the size of your contact patch if you have the wrong tires for the job.​
#2: How do you read your tire's sidewall?!
DOT XE K9 A171 3224
"DOT" - road-legal certification
"XE" - manufacturer plant and code
"K9" - tire size code
"A171" - brand code and characteristics
"3224" - first 2 digits is the week tire was made, last 2 digits is the year. So in this example, the tire was made in the 32nd week of 2024 (Aug 5-11).

Summary: Having the right tires and suspension are part of the foundation to CYA and ensure a functioning motorcycle.
:ninjaryde
 
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#3: Adjust your suspension pre-load based off your weight (and your passenger's if required).
You want to ensure that the bike does not "sag" too low or too high. Parks touched on damper theory but I frankly didn't really understand it on first read.

#4: Fear is the product of ignorance + uncertainty, and can be developed into confidence through knowledge + faith.
In the words of RADM Grace M. Hopper, "A ship in port is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."

Yeah, we can keep our motorcycles in the garage and we'll be safer. But that's not why we bought motorcycles. We bought these beasts to enjoy and develop a new skill. In order to truly overcome our fears we must trust in our efforts to understand how to ride well and increase our knowledge base until we are truly confident in the inputs we make. In this way, we get ourselves out of our own heads, and can provide smooth, relaxed, and purposeful controls onto our bike.

#5: Ken Merena calls proper concentration "relaxed attentiveness," or maximizing awareness with minimal stress/fatigue. Riding always comes with multiple demands on your limited attention, and you develop a sense of where to prioritize your attention through experience. This is why seat time is important before attempting more advanced maneuvers, because it takes time and practice to set this process.

Parks talks about "awareness overkill," or the principle of keeping 100% of your attention on the present moment, instead of less relevant factors out in the future. This devotes the necessary bandwidth to have that "what if" ability: creating escape routes, making contingencies if another vehicle enters your lane, etc.​

#6: In all forms of learning, the right attitude goes a long way. Humility, curiosity, and a willingness to embrace mistakes can increase your rate and depth of knowledge exponentially. On the other hand, pride, being set in certain ways, and not acknowledging mistakes are methods to keep you exactly where you are and will waste your efforts.

#7: You go where you look. We must avoid target fixation through using more peripheral cues and looking faaar out to gain the relevant environmental awareness to maintain our line. Use glances to identify corner/braking points, but staying entirely focused on just that (which is very easy to do) can become dangerous quickly.

Target fixation to me seems a lot like The Game. You've lost when you realize that you're fixating. But that's ok! I think that's why ChampSchool harps so much on mantras because sometimes all it takes is saying "look where you're headed" to flip that switch from fixation back into control. Brains are weird, man.​
 
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#4: Fear is the product of ignorance + uncertainty, and can be developed into confidence through knowledge + faith.
In the words of RADM Grace M. Hopper, "A ship in port is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."

Yeah, we can keep our motorcycles in the garage and we'll be safer. But that's not why we bought motorcycles. We bought these beasts to enjoy and develop a new skill. In order to truly overcome our fears we must trust in our efforts to understand how to ride well and increase our knowledge base until we are truly confident in the inputs we make. In this way, we get ourselves out of our own heads, and can provide smooth, relaxed, and purposeful controls onto our bike.

This one sticks for me. :thumbup
 
In the words of RADM Grace M. Hopper, "A ship in port is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."
I LOVE that you quoted RADM Grace Hopper. She was a great American. She did a TON for our country.


She is the first one to use the term 'computer bug'. Look it up, it's a great story.
 
Dropped my bike being dumb trying to practice leaning in a gravel lot... :cry

View attachment IMG_1106.jpg

Buffing/sanding and then bought some engine paint. I had engine covers ordered but they haven't come in yet haha. Anyways!

#8: There are 3 "line" related mistakes with cornering: turning too soon, not turning enough at the entrance, and making excessive mid-turn corrections ("fifty-pencing" the turn).
- If you turn too early, as in before the road curves, you restrict what you can see around blind corners and it forces you to run wide at the exit. This limits the mid-corner corrections you can make, possibly putting you in a position where you have no other choice but to run wide.​
- If you turn too slowly, as in delaying the time it takes to get from full-upright to the proper lean angle to execute the turn, you can also sell yourself short with space and that may force you to spend prolonged time in the "danger zone," or maximum lean angle to correct.​
- If you make too many mid-corner corrections you create an inefficient and ineffective process of turning in the corner. Keep your head up through the turn and maintain smooth inputs to limit this action.​
 
Yes up for sure, whenever I'm struggling with riding well, I generally realize I'm not using my vision effectively. Also, worth noting, you go where you look and that includes down on the ground. Staying focused on where you want to be when the bike gets loose is easier said than done, but people do it, sometimes even me!

Also, while didty-pemcing is not the smoothest way around a bend, when not on the track mid corner adjustments happen, cyclists, gravel, wet leaves, etc. Entering a corner with enough in reserve to allow for braking or changing direction is a good idea, as is knowing how the bike will react to those (smooth) changes to rider input.
 
#9: Knowing how to skillfully apply the throttle is what makes motorcycle riders go to the next level.
- More throttle = more ground clearance as both the front and rear of the bike rise up under throttle. Therefore, you should avoid chopping the throttle mid-corner because you reduce your ground clearance, which is also your safety margin.
- Ideally, we use the throttle to keep the weight even on both wheels so you have the best ground clearance and also good traction.
- The bike likes to pitch forward if you roll off the throttle too quickly, or release the brakes too quickly.
 
Skip the parts about using the throttle to keep weight "even on both wheels". If you're riding on the freeway, maybe. Otherwise, I always view weight distribution/ contact patch load in terms of throttle/ brake.
 
Let me clear up some misconceptions regarding tire code:

DOT- This acronym stands for Department of Transportation
XE- Refers to the Jaguar model automobile and means these tires are fast.
K9- Dog. D'oh!
A171- Tire casings are takeoffs, specifically naval aircraft from VF-171.
3224- This is a derivative of 1337 or leetspeak. Don't ask.

Hope this helps!
 
Under the banner of Situational Awareness and scanning your environment:
Your scan should also take note of your shadow.
Huh?
If your shadow is pointing to an intersection, the drivers of those cars have the sun in their eyes.
 
Wait, real shadow or Honda Shadow? Or Storm Shadow? :)
 
Direction of the sun is important. Also important to note that if it's hard for you to see, it's probably harder for the people in cars with (most likely) dirty windshields that can't be lifted up.
 
Knowing how invisible you can be to cages is important mental feature.
Lots of interesting vids and threads in the 1Rider forum to expand those mental features.

One that is near and dear to me is the SMIDSY. It really does work and I use it often. It has become pretty automatic for me and that is good.

 
#8: There are 3 "line" related mistakes with cornering: turning too soon, not turning enough at the entrance, and making excessive mid-turn corrections ("fifty-pencing" the turn).

If we're talking about street riding - I do not believe there is a such thing as just one approach to every turn. If you turn early - it doesn't mean you'll go wide, if you don't turn enough at entrance it doesn't mean you go wide either. Mid-turn correction is okay, and actually is a good practice, to be able to go around debris, pot-hole, etc.

All these things are speed dependent:
* if you turn too early - use maintenance throttle to keep you line shallow. And even if you feel like you start going wide, you can roll off and apply brakes. Your goal on street is to be safe, not maximize your drive out of the corner.
* if you do not turn enough on entry - keep slowing down to narrow down your line.
* your speed should be suitable to be able to adjust your line mid-turn
 
A few clarifications:

1. Lean angle = steering angle. As lean angle increases, so does steering angle which sharpens the steering.
2. Trail braking can be summarized as "early turn-in". However, as you're trailing, you're adding lean angle. See #1.
3. Once a rider goes to the brakes, there isn't throttle applied until the exit of the corner, where the rider/ bike are taking away (reducing) lean angle and increasing speed/ momentum.
4. Applying increased brakes when straight up and down isn't a big deal. When trail braking, it's what leads to the majority of front end falls. As one adds lean angle, they should be giving away some brake lever (ease up).
5. Brake to a specific point in a corner; the slowest part of the corner. When a rider reaches the point where the brake lever isn't being applied and off throttle, the largest direction change will happen. When the bike it pointed for the exit, applying throttle will reduce lean angle and begin to straighten the bike for the exit.

These are observations from my own riding, FWIW.
 
^^^
#1: Huh? Steering angle? Steering is the rotation of the handlebars / front wheel at the steering head. Are you trying to say that lean angle reduces trail? I'm struggling with that and currently don't think that it does.
#2: Early turn in? As in early apex? I've trailbraked early, center, and late apexing. I've also done so without increasing lean angle. Isn't trailbraking just a reduction in brake pressure after turn in?
#3: I'm not sure this is the case either. If a rider enters a turn to fast (for their skill level) they can certainly trail brake to avoid running wide. This may not be anywhere near the exit of the turn. Once they slow enough to avoid the (potential) crash, they may need to get back on the throttle immediately. This may be before the geometric apex of the turn (pre exit).
#4: no argument here other than terminology. We (the collective we) should be consistent with the words and terms used. It will lead to better communication.
#5: When braking in a corner, once you release the brakes, that is generally the slowest point. It isn't a specific location. Street riding remember? Also confused at: no brake & no throttle = largest direction change. How does handlebar input (countersteering) come into play?

I get that this is what you do, but much of this I wouldn't say / do / condone in the courses I teach.
 
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Your scan should also take note of your shadow.
Speaking of shadows, another use for them that I use frequently depending on the time of day/sun angle is I look for vehicle shadows ahead of me to tell me how many and where there are vehicles in the lineup and whether or not they’re moving.

Especially helpful when I’m behind something I can’t easily see around. I guess I probably use this more when I’m driving than riding because in a car you can’t see much around a tall, wide vehicle directly in front of you and, unlike on a bike, you can’t move around much in your lane to improve your view.

2. Trail braking can be summarized as "early turn-in"
As for “trail braking”, I always understood it simply meant continuing to brake after initiating turn in and tapering them off as you approach the apex (and, contrary to what many beginners think, it doesn’t matter if it’s the front or rear brake). This is a departure from the text book approach, which states you do all your braking in your approach to the corner while still upright (ie not tipped in yet), enter with throttle closed, tip in, and then gradually start applying throttle after you reach the apex.

Racers can use trail braking all the way up to the apex in order to out brake a competitor. I believe this may also play a role in helping them ‘back it in’ - although that’s a skill beyond my pay grade.
And BTW, trail braking past the apex isn’t trail braking anymore - it means you blew the corner. :ride
 
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One that is near and dear to me is the SMIDSY. It really does work and I use it often.
Over the last 40 years of riding I’ve gradually learned about the SMIDSY.
✅SMIDSY
✅ Weave on approach

BUT - Background movement??? SIAM maneuver? WTF? First time I’ve heard the logic of the weave presented that way. As a photographer we’re taught to always look at the background when composing a shot - something that separates good shooters from the pack. But I’ve never heard anyone mention looking at the background behind a car to avoid a SMIDSY. Wow. I’ve got something new to play with next time I go riding. Thanks, Bud.
 
^^^
#1: Huh? Steering angle? Steering is the rotation of the handlebars / front wheel at the steering head. Are you trying to say that lean angle reduces trail? I'm struggling with that and currently don't think that it does.
#2: Early turn in? As in early apex? I've trailbraked early, center, and late apexing. I've also done so without increasing lean angle. Isn't trailbraking just a reduction in brake pressure after turn in?
#3: I'm not sure this is the case either. If a rider enters a turn to fast (for their skill level) they can certainly trail brake to avoid running wide. This may not be anywhere near the exit of the turn. Once they slow enough to avoid the (potential) crash, they may need to get back on the throttle immediately. This may be before the geometric apex of the turn (pre exit).
#4: no argument here other than terminology. We (the collective we) should be consistent with the words and terms used. It will lead to better communication.
#5: When braking in a corner, once you release the brakes, that is generally the slowest point. It isn't a specific location. Street riding remember? Also confused at: no brake & no throttle = largest direction change. How does handlebar input (countersteering) come into play?

I get that this is what you do, but much of this I wouldn't say / do / condone in the courses I teach.
1. Steering angle is the degree off center from straight. Lean angle and steering angle are related values. I'm saying nothing about trail. That just confuses people. The more lean angle one has, the greater the steering (angle).
2. Trail braking's use almost always encompasses adding lean angle, as I've used the term. Usually when I'm trailing, I'm adding lean angle and thus, adding steering (to the apex). It's the opposite of a late turn in. We could call it "turn in", but I find that my trail brake use is to beat another rider to the apex on some of the harder braking corners. Probably not the best description, In hindsight.
3. I can only decipher that you're talking about a rider who's blown a corner. At that point, the sky's the limit on what to do next. Suffice it to say; I'm talking about good corner entry practices, not variations from that.
4. Technique over terminology at the higher levels of riding. Terminology is textbook; technique is practical application. I've yet to have a professional (race) level instructor worry about the terminology over the actual technique.
5. When one begins their initial application of the brake(s), they should know what point they're braking to and where they want to release the lever. IOW, the brakes take the rider to their direction change. That's a specific point. The rider can move this point to extract more from the entrance or exit of the corner, but yeah, there's a specific point to brake to in every single corner (where brakes are needed). Once off the brakes, a neutral state helps the bike change direction. For a long time, I always thought I was supposed to be on the brakes or throttle to "control" the motorcycle. I didn't understand that I was slowing the direction changes by doing so until I made a comment in a conversation and my friend asked me it to him. I was missing that (short) middle component.



Your students/ locations are at a different level than I'm used to, IIRC. I've never instructed outside a race track.


Tom, saw your post too. See above...hope that clarifies from my perspective.
 
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  1. Is the steering angle the same for a bike at maximum lean (hard parts dragging) in a 80mph turn as it is in a 40mph turn? I would think that steering (angle) is more related to the relationship of radius and speed than just lean angle.
  2. Your initial post said that when trailbraking you're adding lean angle. In the clarification you add the disclaimer "as I've used the term". That's a big distinction that should be made. "This is the way it is" is different from "This is the way I do it".
  3. I don't think that "good corner entry practices" mandate / require trailbraking on the street. Most motorcyclists want to ride their motorcycle like they drive their Camry. Just get from Point A to Point B without crashing. I've never heard 'take it to the track' on the many car forums I'm on.
  4. See #3 & 4. We need to know our audience. As you know, the street and track are vastly different. And trackdays and racing are vastly different as well. The crossover(s) are nuances. "Increased brakes" then "giving away brakes" is a terminology nightmare (my opinion). Use descriptors that are linked. Like "increased brakes and decreased brakes" in the same paragraph, discussion, sentance. I get that certain groups of riders use colloquialisms for things, but we're talking to many varied groups people on BARF and more common terms would be helpful and less confusing for the masses. It's similar to the term "exit apex" that I've heard a well known coach use when describing the location of the end of the turn and beginning of the straight. I may not have described that well. Basically the cone at the exit of the turn that many trackday providers put out there as an aiming point. As for technique over terminology, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that the race instructor is using the same terminology for each student and it's track focused. If the student doesn't understand the instructor (terminology), they cannot progress to technique.
  5. If you are saying that when trailbraking, the release of the brake lever is a physical location that the rider should know ahead of time, I don't think that is applicable to street riding.
 
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