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This might be a bad idea: the evidence

'75 and older are testing exempt, I don't think weight class has anything to do with it. Mine's a '73. I had to replace the steering column but that wasn't too difficult.
 
Square bodys can still be had fairly cheap - I paid all of $1200 for mine (although that was 4y ago)
consider yourself lucky. I had a chance back in 2011 to buy a 84 stepside for a grand.I'd pass b/c the guy said it wouldn't pass smog and didn't know why.If i only had crystal ball.OP, correct on the datsun/toyota claim,hence my search on the american eqivalent. back on topic, i hope reveal day falls on my day off,fingers crossed.....
 
consider yourself lucky. I had a chance back in 2011 to buy a 84 stepside for a grand.I'd pass b/c the guy said it wouldn't pass smog and didn't know why.If i only had crystal ball.OP, correct on the datsun/toyota claim,hence my search on the american eqivalent. back on topic, i hope reveal day falls on my day off,fingers crossed.....
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/1973-c10-barnfind/6723479848.html they're still around

mine's also a C20 with a utility bed, so not exactly the most desireable
 
apparently i forgot to tell yall about the speedometer. the cable broke. i was sad, but not willing to spend the ~15 for a complete replacement from Z1/motion pro so i took the broken off end, dug out the wires from the old one, cut a generic one to length and JBWeld-ed that fucker together.
before:
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the rust is probably why it broke, otherwise it was working beautifully
be5:
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obviously have to clean up some stray epoxy, and it's a TEEEEENY bit crooked but i think it'll work. i tried soldering it together but that failed miserably, thus the jbweld.
 
Dirty parts... I probably would have wicked the solder way up into the cable and it'd still be off center. At least this way the cable is still flexible all the way to the fitting?
 
sweet, if i buy it can i drop it off at your place and have the bed shorten.....:teeth

saw that one, but really want stay with a regular cab bc i really want to restore the next one a 100%,including paint/body work. so smaller the better. nice job on the cable fix, staying with the spirit of the DBC.....
 
[edited].....think about a bike specific toolkit. I'm slowly developing mine.


ah! I see you've learned from your history of H-D/Buell ownership

my M2 uses a truly perverse blend of metric/SAE/Torx
with bolts/socket heads -that's 5 sets of tools,
in a bewildering mix of tiny/normal/huge

as years passed, my touring toolkit grew & grew & grew
to the point that my tankbag sounds like a dry-clutch 916
[bike doesn't run like a 916, tho - even @ 1500cc]

my understanding is the XB's pre-production team
included a noob whose sole task was to better rationalize
fastener style/type/length - likely your Ulysses is more 'normal'
than any previous Sporty-engined Buells

'Good Fortune' to you both at the next DBC - have fun !
 
So in was gifted a sissy bar, because I need somewhere to strap things (not a dildo reference) but it didnt really fit

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I do t jave torches, or a press, or a bender, so even though I am reasonably strong I needed help making it fit.

Turns out Royal Oak lump charcoal is sorta mediocre for smoking meat, but it did a great job heating my metal! And here my friends said in was just being an asshole to all those USFS campground grills....

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So now, I still am not really sure how to attach it, at least it's closer to the frame rails! Shockingly, the chrome can probably be brought back to a full shine. I won't because: street cred

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Cool.sidenote: got that anvil after my grandfather died. Barely use it, but never getting rid of it.
 
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wow, I'd love an anvil like that

I'll probably be working on some stuff in the shop in Santa Clara tomorrow and can probably give you a hand with welding or machining if you'd like
 
I assume you've seen the sissy bar antics I performed on my bike.

On the Buell tool note, I actually have a Cruz Tools tool roll for my Buell, it was Perfect for my S3T, except I had to add a 5/8" end wrench to get to the front motor mount bolts. That kit seems to perform well for my Uly so far.

This snowmobile abomination seems to be all SAE, which helps.
 
.....Mazda and ford and isuzu Chevy dont seem to get much love. Datsun and toyota have the price premium... which is funny because they're almost all the same truck under the skin with minor variances.....


troof - IMHO, very best choice is 4L straight-6 Ranger with XLT-trim [or Mazda equivalent] - I surely loved mine, it provided years of dependable service

1 thing nobody has mentioned yet is ease of loading, tailgate height - modern pickups [both mids & fulls] mimic Freightliners in "manly" bodystyling [damn you, RAM!], which increases body panel size/weight & thus impacts mileage, all with little useful benefit

auntiebling, you appear to embody the DB blacksmith approach well - luv the Hardley shock mods!
 
I assume you've seen the sissy bar antics I performed on my bike.

On the Buell tool note, I actually have a Cruz Tools tool roll for my Buell, it was Perfect for my S3T, except I had to add a 5/8" end wrench to get to the front motor mount bolts. That kit seems to perform well for my Uly so far.

This snowmobile abomination seems to be all SAE, which helps.
Isnt the snomo part a rotax? I'd expect that to be metric. Kawasaki is all 10 12,14mm like all the other Japanese bikes. You could almost do a full servivc with a mountain bike multi tool

I did see your sissy bar. It got the gray matter working to come up with the bbq solution. The safety pin is pretty nice IMO. subtle.

wow, I'd love an anvil like that

I'll probably be working on some stuff in the shop in Santa Clara tomorrow and can probably give you a hand with welding or machining if you'd like

Noted and appreciated. My time constraints dictate that if it cant be done with what I have here, it gets done another way

The anvil is one of the smaller ones. Sad story, his Helpers helped them selves to some of his best stuff right in front of his eyes and being pretty young at the time, no ody listened to me.. this was the last anvil left.

troof - IMHO, very best choice is 4L straight-6 Ranger with XLT-trim [or Mazda equivalent] - I surely loved mine, it provided years of dependable service

1 thing nobody has mentioned yet is ease of loading, tailgate height - modern pickups [both mids & fulls] mimic Freightliners in "manly" bodystyling [damn you, RAM!], which increases body panel size/weight & thus impacts mileage, all with little useful benefit

auntiebling, you appear to embody the DB blacksmith approach well - luv the Hardley shock mods!

Thanks. Rangers are pretty reliable for sure. The 4.0 was a v6, solid motor for for sure though.

I had a 1996 with the 2.3 4 cylinder. Slow as hell but I should have kept that thing.
 
[edited].....Rangers are pretty reliable for sure.....

.....I had a 1996 with the 2.3 4 cylinder. Slow as hell but I should have kept that thing.

agreed, you reiterate my case above - my '97 Ranger was a nimble gem at 130k mi, one I'd still be driving, except widow/new-at-the-time-GF, Tuono Joice, offered up her 20k mi GMC 1/2-ton


[edited].....The 4.0 was a v6, solid motor for for sure.....

Mazda [Ford] did such a good job that in 4 yrs the maintenance was 1 battery & 3k visits to Oil Stop on Saratoga in SJ - I never even thought about the engine type until I was typing [& got it wrong:(]
 
The Snowmachine engine is a Polaris part. So far all fasteners have been SAE. It does have a Fuji Heavy Industries sticker on part of it, but my understanding is that Polaris is pretty much a USA based company.
 
Did not know that. Thought they were canadian. Also thought you had a canam....because assumptions

Sissy bar is installed. It isnt beefy enough for a person to lean on but that isnt why I put it there.

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Also made a deck for.my tail, because the owl that belongs there hit the sissy bar and I do t wnt to ut it up because it would be even uglier than this solution

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It's only design requirements are to last the trip, and keep whatever I strap to the back from resting on the regulator underneath it
 
The vacuum petcock doesnt work properly so itll only run in "prime" aka reserve. Also, one of the float valves seems to leak a little, so after leaving the bike parked for a couple days and losing half a tank of gas to that combination I decided to FixTheSymptomsAndNotTheProblem

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Leftover ABS pipe, some glue, screws and a heat gun and BLAMMO. Water tight-ish storage tube for free.95 since it was all leftover parts

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