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Traction control

How do racers slid the rear tire into corners/point the bike?
 
Love it!

squidworth said:
040314-whatever-traction-control-mladin-tc-381x389.jpg
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This is the only traction control my old ass race bike has. :rofl

That being said, the TC has saved my ass on many occasions on the twisty mountain roads on the Ducati. :thumbup
 
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jacob11379 said:
How do racers slid the rear tire into corners/point the bike?
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mostly by using the front brake a lot. the rear tire gets light as u brake. but it wants to keep going forward, so the rear comes around.

the worst thing that can happen on corner entry is the rear swinging towards the inside of the corner. thats a huge oh shit moment usually caused by some improper rider inputs.

settings for engine braking, downshifts, slipper clutch, suspension, and the riders use of the rear brake all can have a dramatic effect on how easily the rear will come around under heavy braking. some riders prefer the wheels in line and tune accordingly. and some riders want the rear to kick out a bit. if u ever want to feel the rear come around, just crank in too much rebound damping on the shock. ull feel it :D
 
jacob11379 said:
How do racers slid the rear tire into corners/point the bike?
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do you mean doing it dramatically, like on supermotos? generally a lot of front brake, and downshift without rev matching (and slip the clutch the right amount).
 
After years of literbikes with no TC I now have one with the feature but I keep it turned off. It seems to show itself at the exact moment I don't want it to.
My bike may not have a very advanced version of TC though.
 
Phanuel said:
That last bit though, modern bikes are so fast on the track because of the TC managing 190+hp. Mortals can't manage that, and even most pros can't.
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And yet lap times haven't changed much at all in the past 10 years, so what's the point?

Go NASCAR, ban the electronics, and let the Mladin Grip be the traction control.

The spectating is more interesting when the rider has full control over the traction of the bike (or lack of).
 
berth said:
And yet lap times haven't changed much at all in the past 10 years, so what's the point?

Go NASCAR, ban the electronics, and let the Mladin Grip be the traction control.

The spectating is more interesting when the rider has full control over the traction of the bike (or lack of).
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Seriously? Lap times have come down consistently in the last ten years. When you are running 1:30 laps, a 1% improvement is all of one second a lap.
 
An R1M is not worth the money for a track rider. A standard version with upgraded suspension and flashed ECU is perfect.
 
Holeshot said:
An R1M is not worth the money for a track rider. A standard version with upgraded suspension and flashed ECU is perfect.
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When you say standard version is that a reference to a R1? And does the standand have the IMU?

Nvm I see it does....By the time I spend another 3k on suspension and flash theres only a couple grand between the two....

Still not in my wheelhouse ATM anyways....
 
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jacob11379 said:
When you say standard version is that a reference to a R1? And does the standand have the IMU?

Nvm I see it does....By the time I spend another 3k on suspension and flash theres only a couple grand between the two....

Still not in my wheelhouse ATM anyways....
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The new R6 also gets all the goodies including the IMU and autoblip etc.... Pretty slick and they're a little more affordable...
 
jaybocc2 said:
The new R6 also gets all the goodies including the IMU and autoblip etc.... Pretty slick and they're a little more affordable...
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That sounds very interesting. I’ve been looking for a 600 class bike with all the nice electronics of a modern 1000, and so far I’ve only found the MV Agusta F3. When I look at Yamaha’s website, though, it only mentions a quick shifter in the up direction, and even that is not a standard option.
 
Gravisman said:
That sounds very interesting. I’ve been looking for a 600 class bike with all the nice electronics of a modern 1000, and so far I’ve only found the MV Agusta F3. When I look at Yamaha’s website, though, it only mentions a quick shifter in the up direction, and even that is not a standard option.
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You have to go aftermarket for the blipper.
 
Gravisman said:
That sounds very interesting. I’ve been looking for a 600 class bike with all the nice electronics of a modern 1000, and so far I’ve only found the MV Agusta F3. When I look at Yamaha’s website, though, it only mentions a quick shifter in the up direction, and even that is not a standard option.
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uve gotta flash the ECU, turn on the autoblipper in the flash, and buy a new QS sensor that works in both directions. im pretty sure it'll cost u ~$1000 to get the autoblipper.

I think that flash still retains the stock IMU based TC. to adjust it, ud need to buy a more expensive flash which will run another $1000 or so.
 
stangmx13 said:
uve gotta flash the ECU, turn on the autoblipper in the flash, and buy a new QS sensor that works in both directions. im pretty sure it'll cost u ~$1000 to get the autoblipper.

I think that flash still retains the stock IMU based TC. to adjust it, ud need to buy a more expensive flash which will run another $1000 or so.
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you can get a plug and play QS and autoblip for around $400-500 and i can get the details if you want.

The IMU will cost you another $500 or so as-well.

You gotta pay to play. The IMU is sick. If you leave abs intact you can see everything including front / rear brake pressures, throttle, front / rear wheel speeds, TC intervention, lean angles, rpms, Gs... etc. It has come in handy with analyzing riding data and errors/mistakes made before/during a crash.

You'll also probably want braided lines and forks or at least a shock as you get faster... this hobby isn't cheap but you'd also have to spend a good bit of that for the same goodies on an R1 aswell.
 
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I was wondering about the same thing a while back. When I first got a bike with adjustable TC, I didn’t really know how much it would matter either. What helped me was reading a few explanations on how front vs rear braking and traction behave under different conditions — it gave me a better idea of what the electronics are actually trying to manage.

From my own riding:
  • Low TC levels on track feel the least intrusive, just a little “nudge” when the rear starts to get light.
  • Higher levels definitely cut power earlier, so they’re good when you’re still learning the bike or the surface is sketchy.
  • It won’t guarantee saving a lowside/highside, but it can definitely soften the moment where things start to go wrong.
Once you try it this month, you’ll probably get a feel for which setting matches your confidence that day. It’s pretty interesting stuff once you understand what each end of the bike is doing.
 
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