FreeRyde
The Curmudgeon
Moar!!
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Two Alex's Ride Europe - 2018
- Thread starter Mellowtonin
- Start date
bikewanker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2006
- Location
- Eastern Sierras
- Moto(s)
- FJ-09, TR-650x2, Rapid Taxi RR, Tiger 1050, '81 1002 F
- Name
- chris
- BARF perks
- AMA #: 178394
I know who I’m inviting to chronicle my riding adventures!
Mellowtonin
Old Enough to Know Better
Thanks everyone for the kind feedback! So I've been a bit busy lately, but I'll try to continue working on the ride report every few days.
Day 6: West Side! Alghero to Portoscuso
Woke up this morning to a gloomy overcast outside of the hotel balcony, the beds were plenty comfortable compared to the ferry the night before, so much so we were a bit reluctant to head down to breakfast at 7A.M.
As we had picked to visit Sardinia during its off season, we found the hotel to be quite devoid of visitors. While enjoying a proper English breakfast at the downstairs dining hall, we watched in mild amusement as the groundskeeper attempted to chase a conniving team of ducks ~ all the way across the manicured lawn, around the abandoned swimming pool.
We began the day by riding south along the western Sardinian coastline, through the fog covered two lane twisties overlooking the sea, I could almost swear that we were back at home riding Highway 1 in the winter.
Vista point at Villanova Monteleone
With our bikes and tires warmed up for the day, we arrived at the fishing village of Bosa, with a maze like historical center full of staircases built around the Serravalle Hill. From afar, the colorful buildings as well as the fisherman's houses along the water made for a charming impression. We stopped in the middle of town, for a much needed Espresso + Gelato break. For those that have yet to visit Italy, Cafe Italiano or Espresso seemed to be the caffeinated beverage of choice...explaining why we did not observe a single Starbucks during our visit on the island. alemeno214 and I attempted to visit the Castle of Serravalle in the middle of the village, but it was not open to through traffic:
We left Bosa with a clear view of the crashing waves along the coast, the sun finally decided to come out for the day:
Next, we climbed up over the hills towards the interior of the island, southeast to the mountain town of Cuglieri. I've read previously that Sardinia belongs to one of the few Blue Zones around the world, where the theory claims that people live much longer than average. Upon arrival at Cuglieri two hours after leaving Bosa, we found the town folk (mostly seniors) sitting in the middle of the town square, boisterously chatting amongst friends. All the while enjoying Espresso, white wine, and generous helping of tobacco... it was barely 11 in the morning! I think we might have accidentally stumbled onto the recipe for eternal life.
Cuglieri Clocktower
After Cuglieri the road begins twisting and turning again through a forest, as it ascends up the Montiferru Massif, a small volcanic range which we briefly followed. We crossed the Altopiano di Abbasanta plains, which was scattered with the distinctly Sardinian, red Nuraghe ruins (will be covered in detail on Day 7).
We stopped for lunch right before the bridge overlooking Omodeo Lake, across the waters from the comune of Ula Tirso. Our guidebook lead us to a restaurant called the Cantinedda, where we had arguably both the cheapest as well as the one of the most tasty meals for the entire trip. The middle-aged lady who ran the place spoke more German than English, she also did not give us a menu for lunch. It felt like we visited someone's loving mum, who fixed us up with plates of fresh carbonara made from scratch:
It's so good I almost cried...
By this point, it was the second day which I drank the local brew (Ichnusa) with my lunch. I was intrigued by the label, since it featured the same "profile view of a colored person sporting a fluttering headband" as the cover of our Sardinia guide book. I had originally hypothesized this logo to be representative of the famous Nuraghe aboriginals which I had heard so much about in association to the island. A quick research on Wikipedia proved that I could not have been more wrong in my hypothesis, the truth was oh so much more politically incorrect. As I read aloud to alemeno214 in horror, the beer label was a stylized representation for the Flag of Sardinia, also known locally as the flag of the Four Moors.
Parking Outside the Cantinedda
As we were enjoying our meal outside, taking in the spectacular view, I followed the faint "meows" to find the owner's week old kittens hiding behind the lawn mower alongside the restaurant. Their eyes were still being developed and they could barely keep'em open, the black one who I assume was the older sibling tried hard to protect the younger kitten, who climbed on top of the mower bag in curiosity despite of my "intimidating" presence.
Took me forever to get this shot, kittens are shy!
After lunch we bid the owner adieu and rode across the bridge, following the downhill road to Busachi, smack down in the middle of the island. Here be mostly cow country, there were a few butt puckering moments when we were surprised by a small stampede of cows led by the local rancher marching out of blind turns, right on the opposite lane. It wasn't until two days later when we discovered why cow-pies were referred adoringly as "green ice" by the local motorcyclists. The weather in the afternoon, 200 klicks from where we started in the morning was drastically different, the sky was a sapphire blue with hardly any clouds...it was hard to believe how just hours ago we passed by such gloomy weather in Bosa. About two hours after our lunch stop, we decided to take a short break in the mountain town of Morgongiori. Where another BARF salute of the day was captured:
At the Chiosco Bar
A little Sardinian boy - probably too young to go to school, came up to me...he was clearly intrigued by the two out of place Americans sipping espresso in his village. He pointed to my GoPro (still attached to my helmet) and asked in Italian, "What is this?" alemeno214 and I tried to explain that it was used for filming, but the curious little boy had more questions. He wanted to know why we had these weird suits on, why the joints were covered and padded in Cordura, where we came from and where we wanted to go. His poor mum who referred to him affectionately as "Peppito" had to act as translator, I'd be damned if we didn't convert a future motorcyclist then and there. Of course the old village regular was there enjoying a drink as well, he took one look at me and boisterously declared to Peppito that, he knows where I'm from and that I've got to be "Cinese". I smiled and told him that I was a proud Taiwanese American. We answered Peppito's barrage of questions for the next 20 minutes, then gave him a good wave and rev-bomb as we rode off. Ten minutes later I was regretting how we'd forgotten to take a photo together with him, that would have been rad.
We continued through the comunes of Uras and Guspini, again the riding was mostly inclined sweepers backdropped by rolling green hills and a big, perfectly blue sky. Soon we've reach the coastline once again, this time along the south western corner of of the island nation.
Buggerru, Province of Carbonia-Iglesias
Amaaazing view
About 10 kilometers from where this picture was taken, our gas tank reserve light flashed on. We were initially unconcerned as the GPS showed arrival to the next gas station with 5 kilometers, however panic quickly set in as we were greeted with this lovely view just around the corner:
Road closed!!
Turns out just months after the last IMT tour, the local telecom company had decided to take advantage of the off-season for some major road work. We scouted around and found the "detour", a bulldozed firetrail about the length of two football fields, at the bottom of the hill immediately to the right of the railings in the picture. It was time to put or Portugal dirt experience to the test:
Alas, a 460 pound "lightweight" adventure bike handled like garbage when compared to the 230 lb factory race machines we rode in adventure Portugal. Nevertheless, the hardy little Beemer carried the two of us steadily back towards the safety of pavement. Another 20 klicks and we were back in civilization. The two Alex's made it to Portoscuso just in time for a victorious sunset:
Checking in
Chillaxin' by the pool
Having ridden most of the western region of Sardinia for the day, we were both pooped. After a severely overpriced dinner at the hotel, served by a waiter who dressed like the stunt double for HBO's Boardwalk Empire (including the greasy, slicked back hair), it was time for bed.
The Day's Route
Day 6: West Side! Alghero to Portoscuso
Woke up this morning to a gloomy overcast outside of the hotel balcony, the beds were plenty comfortable compared to the ferry the night before, so much so we were a bit reluctant to head down to breakfast at 7A.M.
As we had picked to visit Sardinia during its off season, we found the hotel to be quite devoid of visitors. While enjoying a proper English breakfast at the downstairs dining hall, we watched in mild amusement as the groundskeeper attempted to chase a conniving team of ducks ~ all the way across the manicured lawn, around the abandoned swimming pool.
We began the day by riding south along the western Sardinian coastline, through the fog covered two lane twisties overlooking the sea, I could almost swear that we were back at home riding Highway 1 in the winter.
Vista point at Villanova Monteleone
With our bikes and tires warmed up for the day, we arrived at the fishing village of Bosa, with a maze like historical center full of staircases built around the Serravalle Hill. From afar, the colorful buildings as well as the fisherman's houses along the water made for a charming impression. We stopped in the middle of town, for a much needed Espresso + Gelato break. For those that have yet to visit Italy, Cafe Italiano or Espresso seemed to be the caffeinated beverage of choice...explaining why we did not observe a single Starbucks during our visit on the island. alemeno214 and I attempted to visit the Castle of Serravalle in the middle of the village, but it was not open to through traffic:
We left Bosa with a clear view of the crashing waves along the coast, the sun finally decided to come out for the day:
Next, we climbed up over the hills towards the interior of the island, southeast to the mountain town of Cuglieri. I've read previously that Sardinia belongs to one of the few Blue Zones around the world, where the theory claims that people live much longer than average. Upon arrival at Cuglieri two hours after leaving Bosa, we found the town folk (mostly seniors) sitting in the middle of the town square, boisterously chatting amongst friends. All the while enjoying Espresso, white wine, and generous helping of tobacco... it was barely 11 in the morning! I think we might have accidentally stumbled onto the recipe for eternal life.
Cuglieri Clocktower
After Cuglieri the road begins twisting and turning again through a forest, as it ascends up the Montiferru Massif, a small volcanic range which we briefly followed. We crossed the Altopiano di Abbasanta plains, which was scattered with the distinctly Sardinian, red Nuraghe ruins (will be covered in detail on Day 7).
We stopped for lunch right before the bridge overlooking Omodeo Lake, across the waters from the comune of Ula Tirso. Our guidebook lead us to a restaurant called the Cantinedda, where we had arguably both the cheapest as well as the one of the most tasty meals for the entire trip. The middle-aged lady who ran the place spoke more German than English, she also did not give us a menu for lunch. It felt like we visited someone's loving mum, who fixed us up with plates of fresh carbonara made from scratch:
It's so good I almost cried...
By this point, it was the second day which I drank the local brew (Ichnusa) with my lunch. I was intrigued by the label, since it featured the same "profile view of a colored person sporting a fluttering headband" as the cover of our Sardinia guide book. I had originally hypothesized this logo to be representative of the famous Nuraghe aboriginals which I had heard so much about in association to the island. A quick research on Wikipedia proved that I could not have been more wrong in my hypothesis, the truth was oh so much more politically incorrect. As I read aloud to alemeno214 in horror, the beer label was a stylized representation for the Flag of Sardinia, also known locally as the flag of the Four Moors.
Wikipedia said:
Parking Outside the Cantinedda
As we were enjoying our meal outside, taking in the spectacular view, I followed the faint "meows" to find the owner's week old kittens hiding behind the lawn mower alongside the restaurant. Their eyes were still being developed and they could barely keep'em open, the black one who I assume was the older sibling tried hard to protect the younger kitten, who climbed on top of the mower bag in curiosity despite of my "intimidating" presence.
Took me forever to get this shot, kittens are shy!
After lunch we bid the owner adieu and rode across the bridge, following the downhill road to Busachi, smack down in the middle of the island. Here be mostly cow country, there were a few butt puckering moments when we were surprised by a small stampede of cows led by the local rancher marching out of blind turns, right on the opposite lane. It wasn't until two days later when we discovered why cow-pies were referred adoringly as "green ice" by the local motorcyclists. The weather in the afternoon, 200 klicks from where we started in the morning was drastically different, the sky was a sapphire blue with hardly any clouds...it was hard to believe how just hours ago we passed by such gloomy weather in Bosa. About two hours after our lunch stop, we decided to take a short break in the mountain town of Morgongiori. Where another BARF salute of the day was captured:
At the Chiosco Bar
A little Sardinian boy - probably too young to go to school, came up to me...he was clearly intrigued by the two out of place Americans sipping espresso in his village. He pointed to my GoPro (still attached to my helmet) and asked in Italian, "What is this?" alemeno214 and I tried to explain that it was used for filming, but the curious little boy had more questions. He wanted to know why we had these weird suits on, why the joints were covered and padded in Cordura, where we came from and where we wanted to go. His poor mum who referred to him affectionately as "Peppito" had to act as translator, I'd be damned if we didn't convert a future motorcyclist then and there. Of course the old village regular was there enjoying a drink as well, he took one look at me and boisterously declared to Peppito that, he knows where I'm from and that I've got to be "Cinese". I smiled and told him that I was a proud Taiwanese American. We answered Peppito's barrage of questions for the next 20 minutes, then gave him a good wave and rev-bomb as we rode off. Ten minutes later I was regretting how we'd forgotten to take a photo together with him, that would have been rad.
We continued through the comunes of Uras and Guspini, again the riding was mostly inclined sweepers backdropped by rolling green hills and a big, perfectly blue sky. Soon we've reach the coastline once again, this time along the south western corner of of the island nation.
Buggerru, Province of Carbonia-Iglesias
Amaaazing view
About 10 kilometers from where this picture was taken, our gas tank reserve light flashed on. We were initially unconcerned as the GPS showed arrival to the next gas station with 5 kilometers, however panic quickly set in as we were greeted with this lovely view just around the corner:
Road closed!!
Turns out just months after the last IMT tour, the local telecom company had decided to take advantage of the off-season for some major road work. We scouted around and found the "detour", a bulldozed firetrail about the length of two football fields, at the bottom of the hill immediately to the right of the railings in the picture. It was time to put or Portugal dirt experience to the test:
Alas, a 460 pound "lightweight" adventure bike handled like garbage when compared to the 230 lb factory race machines we rode in adventure Portugal. Nevertheless, the hardy little Beemer carried the two of us steadily back towards the safety of pavement. Another 20 klicks and we were back in civilization. The two Alex's made it to Portoscuso just in time for a victorious sunset:
Checking in
Chillaxin' by the pool
Having ridden most of the western region of Sardinia for the day, we were both pooped. After a severely overpriced dinner at the hotel, served by a waiter who dressed like the stunt double for HBO's Boardwalk Empire (including the greasy, slicked back hair), it was time for bed.
The Day's Route
Last edited:
Mellowtonin
Old Enough to Know Better
Day 7
Today we started from Portoscuso on the western coast of the island, and rode all mountain roads in the south, coming close to the capital of Cagliari, where we ran into some serious Italian traffic. Upon reaching the eastern edge of Cagliari bordering Monte Cresia, we finally decided to take a 30 minute brunch break composed of espressos, potato chips, and icecream.
The section of Route S125 from San Gregorio to San Vito was just about perfect, perfect serpentine curves complete with drop dead gorgeous views. At San Vito, I finally had a chance to explore the famous Nuraghe ruins scattered across Sardinia up close. It’s unbelievable that these mysterious structures were first constructed during the Bronze Age!
We head North then West, back to the commune of Perdasdefogu where we got lost and stopped to look for directions in front of the entrance of Salto di Quirra, a restricted weapons testing range and rocket launching site, also the largest military range in Italy for their Air Force.
We figured it was already two hours past lunch time, might as well stop and grab a bite! The waitresses were astonished by the two Alexes, and were filled with questions on where we came from.
After the delicious meal, we head back North East on Route SP13 amidst lush greenery. At Jerzu atop the mountain ridge, we stopped multiple times for pictures:
At last, an hour before sunset we reached the Tortoli on the shores of the Tyrrhenian Sea that separates Sardinia from mainland Italy. Little did I know the hotel we had at Arbatax would have the best view in house...
The Day's Route
Today we started from Portoscuso on the western coast of the island, and rode all mountain roads in the south, coming close to the capital of Cagliari, where we ran into some serious Italian traffic. Upon reaching the eastern edge of Cagliari bordering Monte Cresia, we finally decided to take a 30 minute brunch break composed of espressos, potato chips, and icecream.
The section of Route S125 from San Gregorio to San Vito was just about perfect, perfect serpentine curves complete with drop dead gorgeous views. At San Vito, I finally had a chance to explore the famous Nuraghe ruins scattered across Sardinia up close. It’s unbelievable that these mysterious structures were first constructed during the Bronze Age!
We head North then West, back to the commune of Perdasdefogu where we got lost and stopped to look for directions in front of the entrance of Salto di Quirra, a restricted weapons testing range and rocket launching site, also the largest military range in Italy for their Air Force.
We figured it was already two hours past lunch time, might as well stop and grab a bite! The waitresses were astonished by the two Alexes, and were filled with questions on where we came from.
After the delicious meal, we head back North East on Route SP13 amidst lush greenery. At Jerzu atop the mountain ridge, we stopped multiple times for pictures:
At last, an hour before sunset we reached the Tortoli on the shores of the Tyrrhenian Sea that separates Sardinia from mainland Italy. Little did I know the hotel we had at Arbatax would have the best view in house...
The Day's Route
Last edited:
bikewanker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2006
- Location
- Eastern Sierras
- Moto(s)
- FJ-09, TR-650x2, Rapid Taxi RR, Tiger 1050, '81 1002 F
- Name
- chris
- BARF perks
- AMA #: 178394
My memory being what it is I had to go back to the beginning of this adventure. Since I’ve been dreaming of riding lately this is good. Please include an IMT review.
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2002
- Location
- Menlo Park, Ca.
- Moto(s)
- Keep me rocking life
- Name
- Budman
- BARF perks
- AMA Life Member #203453
Day 7 almost a year later... love it actually.
Good deal for the cold that surrounds us now.
That is an awesome view!
I only had to go back a couple of posts Wanker....
Good deal for the cold that surrounds us now.
That is an awesome view!
I only had to go back a couple of posts Wanker....
Mellowtonin
Old Enough to Know Better
I will at the very end! Stick around, there's even an awesome video which I edited from 9 days of footage.
Day 7 almost a year later... love it actually.
Good deal for the cold that surrounds us now.
That is an awesome view!
I only had to go back a couple of posts Wanker....
What can I say life got too hectic last winter, then I was too busy riding Kernville, Weaverville, and Pakistan. Holidays are the best time to play catch up!
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2010
- Location
- your mom’s house
- Moto(s)
- DR6Fiddy, 790 ADV S, 9Fiddy SM-R, 89 Transalp, TTR2Fiddy
- Name
- Triple R
- BARF perks
- AMA #2771957
Alex, I'm hatching plans to steal the other Alex.
Mellowtonin
Old Enough to Know Better
Day 8
Today I woke up to gentle rays of sunshine overlooking a gorgeous view of the Mediterranean Sea. After checking out from our lovely hotel, we first hiked and explored the Nuraghe tower atop the one lonely hill directly across the waters from our hotel, followed by a visit to the locally famous Red Rocks Beach at Arbatax.
Today's route took us around the perimeter of Gennargentu National Park, thru fields of wheat, fruit orchards, as well as herds of sheep, cows and goats whose milk is used to produce the exquisite local Pecorino Sardo & Fiore Sardo cheese.
After a brief espresso break and refueling at a petrol station in Seui, where the neighbors had an impressive laundry display hang drying in the wind, we began our day's journey to Su Gologone in Oliena. Not even an hour later however, the unthinkable happened...Team Alexes got split up!
It turns out the GPS units we were given had two different maps programmed in them (must've been from separate, previous guided trips). It also did not help that one of the Alex was a lot faster than the other. With no choice but to place absolute trust in the interactive map, I made a bee line for our hotel. With only brief stops to sip water and enjoy my granola bar...this turned out to be a wise decision, since our hotel for the night was located in one of the most remote countryside of Sardinia...there would've been no way of even finding this place after sunset.
In the end, both Alex’s were reunited at the beautiful hotel Su Gologone at sunset, a celebratory feast was much needed (easily the best food we had in Sardinia)! Neither one of us ran off a cliff our got arrested for riding like a jackass to save time. Oh, and the waiter (who looked and spoke English like Hans from the original Die Hard) turned out to have just moved back to his hometown of Oliena from San Francisco, what a small world!
Route for the day
Today I woke up to gentle rays of sunshine overlooking a gorgeous view of the Mediterranean Sea. After checking out from our lovely hotel, we first hiked and explored the Nuraghe tower atop the one lonely hill directly across the waters from our hotel, followed by a visit to the locally famous Red Rocks Beach at Arbatax.
Today's route took us around the perimeter of Gennargentu National Park, thru fields of wheat, fruit orchards, as well as herds of sheep, cows and goats whose milk is used to produce the exquisite local Pecorino Sardo & Fiore Sardo cheese.
After a brief espresso break and refueling at a petrol station in Seui, where the neighbors had an impressive laundry display hang drying in the wind, we began our day's journey to Su Gologone in Oliena. Not even an hour later however, the unthinkable happened...Team Alexes got split up!
It turns out the GPS units we were given had two different maps programmed in them (must've been from separate, previous guided trips). It also did not help that one of the Alex was a lot faster than the other. With no choice but to place absolute trust in the interactive map, I made a bee line for our hotel. With only brief stops to sip water and enjoy my granola bar...this turned out to be a wise decision, since our hotel for the night was located in one of the most remote countryside of Sardinia...there would've been no way of even finding this place after sunset.
In the end, both Alex’s were reunited at the beautiful hotel Su Gologone at sunset, a celebratory feast was much needed (easily the best food we had in Sardinia)! Neither one of us ran off a cliff our got arrested for riding like a jackass to save time. Oh, and the waiter (who looked and spoke English like Hans from the original Die Hard) turned out to have just moved back to his hometown of Oliena from San Francisco, what a small world!
Route for the day
Last edited:
bikewanker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2006
- Location
- Eastern Sierras
- Moto(s)
- FJ-09, TR-650x2, Rapid Taxi RR, Tiger 1050, '81 1002 F
- Name
- chris
- BARF perks
- AMA #: 178394
Looks like your dinner plate was served hot on a Nuraghe wave rotor? It has a bronzed appearance. Guess I still have plenty of time to tell my September fly and ride!
SFMCjohn
13
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2010
- Location
- San Francisco, 94102
- Moto(s)
- KLR, K75s, TR7V, FXSB
- Name
- John A.
- BARF perks
- AMA #2917550
wonderful pics! 
IMTBike has at least three white 700GSs, just checked our pics to see if one of yours was the same one we had from Lisbon ...
IMTBike has at least three white 700GSs, just checked our pics to see if one of yours was the same one we had from Lisbon ...
Mellowtonin
Old Enough to Know Better
First of all, keep him out of the light, he hates bright light, especially sunlight, it'll burn him. Second, don't give him any beer, not even to drink. But the most important rule, the rule you can never forget, no matter how much he cries, no matter how much he begs, never feed him after midnight or he'll get the BG's!
You know I never noticed it until you pointed it out
We were too focused on local cheese, fresh pasta, spit roasted lamb, and the most excellent winewonderful pics!
IMTBike has at least three white 700GSs, just checked our pics to see if one of yours was the same one we had from Lisbon ...
John! If the right side case had scratches all over, that would be one of ours. We parked a block from the Plaza de Catalunya Apple Store in Barcelona for 30 minutes, some a-hole did it when they were pulling out their scooter on the neighboring stall, didn't even bother leaving a note. We were worried since neither of us purchased insurance coverage, but IMT was super cool about it during the return inspection.
arty
Love the follow up! Looks like a great time for sure.
You know it, Sardinia is truly one of those hidden gems.
Last edited:
alemeno214
Bumblewee Wrangler
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2015
- Location
- Vancouver, WA
- Moto(s)
- Versys 300/650,
DL1000A,
DL650, F700gs, Ninja 300/500, Radian
- Name
- Alex
First of all, keep him out of the light, he hates bright light, especially sunlight, it'll burn him. Second, don't give him any beer, not even to drink. But the most important rule, the rule you can never forget, no matter how much he cries, no matter how much he begs, never feed him after midnight or he'll get the BG's!
True story
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2010
- Location
- your mom’s house
- Moto(s)
- DR6Fiddy, 790 ADV S, 9Fiddy SM-R, 89 Transalp, TTR2Fiddy
- Name
- Triple R
- BARF perks
- AMA #2771957
Pffft. Like I don't understand man child care 101.
Mellowtonin
Old Enough to Know Better
Day 9
Today was the one rest day on our Sardinia itinerary...meaning we would ride in a giant loop, returning to the same hotel at night after having ridden in motorcycle heaven - Gennargentu Park once more.
After enjoying an outdoor breakfast surrounded by nature, we made our first stop in the neighboring stop of Oliena, were our maitre d' from the previous night was born and raised. It was a town famous for its wines like Nepente which is made from the local Cannonau grapes, explaining why we were so impressed at the dinner table. We then rode along the Supramonte, an area of mountains/highlands located in the center of Eastern Sardinia. We stopped to take a panoramic picture at the highest peak, Monte Corrasi - elevation 4,800 feet:
We rode toward the town of Orgisolo, a village infamous for its bandits and kidnappers (historically known as the Bandit Captiol of Sardinia). While crime and violence have subsided today, the bullet marked road signs and lamp posts serve as a stark reminder of the not so distant past.
During our descent down the picturesque Fiume River and Flumendosa Valley, thank goodness for our guide book warning ahead, as free roaming cattle with the slippery "green ice" which they leave on the road was overtly abundant. The local beef loved to stand in the middle of the road around blind corners:
Sardinia, being a microcontinent meant that we would experience a smorgasbord of sceneries ranging from the highlands, to alp like ridges, to tropical beaches, then Mojave desert (complete with local cacti), all within one day’s ride. We ducked out of the rain at a cafe in the mountain village of Villanova Strisaili, and took some time to enjoy the blissful combination of a hot cappuccino and frozen ice cream bars.
We arrived at the pizzeria in the town of Baunei as recommended by the GPS shortly after 2PM, but was told by the cook that we'd just missed pizza baking time.
Great view but no pizza!
Another 10 klicks North, we are now rapidly climbing in elevation with a commanding view of the entire Eastern coast of the island, it was finally time to stop for lunch...freshly made gnocchi!
{
After filling our bellies, we continued riding North, following the Gola Su Gorruppu (Gorropu Gorge National Park), one of the most fascinating and impressive landmarks of the Gennargentu Mountains, with towering 1200 feet walls surrounded by a thick and impressive forest:
Rounding off the afternoon, we took the extended route and went east to visit the laid back beach town of Gala Gonone, hoping to catch the sunset. As an alumni of UCSD in La Jolla, I felt right at home. A couple feral cats took shelter inside the silverware storage cart from some bistro on the pier, it was the perfect picture:
We made our way in the dark underneath star light back to Hotel Su Gologone, what a glorious, wonderful day it was!
The day's route
Today was the one rest day on our Sardinia itinerary...meaning we would ride in a giant loop, returning to the same hotel at night after having ridden in motorcycle heaven - Gennargentu Park once more.
After enjoying an outdoor breakfast surrounded by nature, we made our first stop in the neighboring stop of Oliena, were our maitre d' from the previous night was born and raised. It was a town famous for its wines like Nepente which is made from the local Cannonau grapes, explaining why we were so impressed at the dinner table. We then rode along the Supramonte, an area of mountains/highlands located in the center of Eastern Sardinia. We stopped to take a panoramic picture at the highest peak, Monte Corrasi - elevation 4,800 feet:
We rode toward the town of Orgisolo, a village infamous for its bandits and kidnappers (historically known as the Bandit Captiol of Sardinia). While crime and violence have subsided today, the bullet marked road signs and lamp posts serve as a stark reminder of the not so distant past.
During our descent down the picturesque Fiume River and Flumendosa Valley, thank goodness for our guide book warning ahead, as free roaming cattle with the slippery "green ice" which they leave on the road was overtly abundant. The local beef loved to stand in the middle of the road around blind corners:
Sardinia, being a microcontinent meant that we would experience a smorgasbord of sceneries ranging from the highlands, to alp like ridges, to tropical beaches, then Mojave desert (complete with local cacti), all within one day’s ride. We ducked out of the rain at a cafe in the mountain village of Villanova Strisaili, and took some time to enjoy the blissful combination of a hot cappuccino and frozen ice cream bars.
We arrived at the pizzeria in the town of Baunei as recommended by the GPS shortly after 2PM, but was told by the cook that we'd just missed pizza baking time.
Great view but no pizza!
Another 10 klicks North, we are now rapidly climbing in elevation with a commanding view of the entire Eastern coast of the island, it was finally time to stop for lunch...freshly made gnocchi!
{After filling our bellies, we continued riding North, following the Gola Su Gorruppu (Gorropu Gorge National Park), one of the most fascinating and impressive landmarks of the Gennargentu Mountains, with towering 1200 feet walls surrounded by a thick and impressive forest:
Rounding off the afternoon, we took the extended route and went east to visit the laid back beach town of Gala Gonone, hoping to catch the sunset. As an alumni of UCSD in La Jolla, I felt right at home. A couple feral cats took shelter inside the silverware storage cart from some bistro on the pier, it was the perfect picture:
We made our way in the dark underneath star light back to Hotel Su Gologone, what a glorious, wonderful day it was!
The day's route
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Mellowtonin
Old Enough to Know Better
Mellowtonin
Old Enough to Know Better
Day 10
Our time in Sardinia was nearing its end, but not before mother nature hitting us in the face with the largest storm of 2018 (the same hurricane that flooded Venice one year ago). It was all bad news on the forecast, we were scheduled to ride thru the eye of the storm as we make our way across one of the highest summits on the island.
I will never forget the look on the concierge's face (stately woman in her 50's) as the two Alexes checked out from the hotel in their Aerostitch and helmets. Her expression was a mixture of disbelief and concern, as the TV news on the background advised folks to stay in doors. I could almost hear her utter, "Those crazy Americans" under her breath when we left through the front door.
We made it to the town of Bitti 54 klicks north of Su Gologone without getting wet, the local cafe owner was so friendly. He took out chairs and tables for us to sit in front of his store (stored inside because of the incoming storm) and enjoy a nice cup of espresso, and even invited us inside to hangout with his posse. We finally got to try homemade Sardinian Pecorino cheese as well as prosciutto! As the owner explained, he wanted us to help them eat as much as possible, before the cheese or the meat expired.
The group of locals chatting inside were very curious about our trip so far, and we ended up staying a bit longer than planned (30 minute break turned into an hour). As I watched in horror of the ominous sky and gathering storm clouds, we eventually had to forcefully excuse ourselves to continue the day's ride. That's Sardinian hospitality for you, something I would never forget.
We hooked into the road to Budduso, snaking through an impressively large cork tree forest,taking us north into the Monti Limbara mountains. By this time we were riding our motorcycles in one of the most extreme weather I had been in. I watched as the dainty F700GS'es were blown three feet across - completely sideways by the wind, pelted by rain drops the size of bullets...as well as crashing thunder and distant lighting striking the ground. By the time we rode through the storm and stopped at the village of Sant'Antonio di Gallura for lunch, both of us were completely soaked thru to our knickers.
We found a little bistro complete with spiral staircase (the owner was a large man, reminded me of a Mafioso for some reason, even though his demeanor was super nice). Took an hour break to wring out the water from our clothes s well as stuff our bellies with hot soup and pasta.
After the much needed respite, we continued on to Arzachena then Olbia, making our way into the heart of the famed Emerald Coast...Porto Cervo under crystal blue skies. No doubt this was one of the most touristy parts of the island, developed in the 60's with money from an Arabian prince - Prince Aga Khan IV, the marina at Porto Cervo is now a popular spot for the rich and famous (especially Russians). Our hotel room balcony had its own docking area for private sail boats:
But given it was the end of October, we were greeted with abandoned villas and closed luxury shops...the whole place was eerily deserted, with exception of a band of roving feral cats!
After a wet, cold, and exhausting day, we called an early night at the super luxurious hotel...the memory foam mattresses were simply amazing!
The Day's Route
Our time in Sardinia was nearing its end, but not before mother nature hitting us in the face with the largest storm of 2018 (the same hurricane that flooded Venice one year ago). It was all bad news on the forecast, we were scheduled to ride thru the eye of the storm as we make our way across one of the highest summits on the island.
I will never forget the look on the concierge's face (stately woman in her 50's) as the two Alexes checked out from the hotel in their Aerostitch and helmets. Her expression was a mixture of disbelief and concern, as the TV news on the background advised folks to stay in doors. I could almost hear her utter, "Those crazy Americans" under her breath when we left through the front door.
We made it to the town of Bitti 54 klicks north of Su Gologone without getting wet, the local cafe owner was so friendly. He took out chairs and tables for us to sit in front of his store (stored inside because of the incoming storm) and enjoy a nice cup of espresso, and even invited us inside to hangout with his posse. We finally got to try homemade Sardinian Pecorino cheese as well as prosciutto! As the owner explained, he wanted us to help them eat as much as possible, before the cheese or the meat expired.
The group of locals chatting inside were very curious about our trip so far, and we ended up staying a bit longer than planned (30 minute break turned into an hour). As I watched in horror of the ominous sky and gathering storm clouds, we eventually had to forcefully excuse ourselves to continue the day's ride. That's Sardinian hospitality for you, something I would never forget.
We hooked into the road to Budduso, snaking through an impressively large cork tree forest,taking us north into the Monti Limbara mountains. By this time we were riding our motorcycles in one of the most extreme weather I had been in. I watched as the dainty F700GS'es were blown three feet across - completely sideways by the wind, pelted by rain drops the size of bullets...as well as crashing thunder and distant lighting striking the ground. By the time we rode through the storm and stopped at the village of Sant'Antonio di Gallura for lunch, both of us were completely soaked thru to our knickers.
We found a little bistro complete with spiral staircase (the owner was a large man, reminded me of a Mafioso for some reason, even though his demeanor was super nice). Took an hour break to wring out the water from our clothes s well as stuff our bellies with hot soup and pasta.
After the much needed respite, we continued on to Arzachena then Olbia, making our way into the heart of the famed Emerald Coast...Porto Cervo under crystal blue skies. No doubt this was one of the most touristy parts of the island, developed in the 60's with money from an Arabian prince - Prince Aga Khan IV, the marina at Porto Cervo is now a popular spot for the rich and famous (especially Russians). Our hotel room balcony had its own docking area for private sail boats:
But given it was the end of October, we were greeted with abandoned villas and closed luxury shops...the whole place was eerily deserted, with exception of a band of roving feral cats!
After a wet, cold, and exhausting day, we called an early night at the super luxurious hotel...the memory foam mattresses were simply amazing!
The Day's Route
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