• There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

Tying down the BMW GS 1250 in an electric 4ft bed

What would you do?

  • I'd not, but if you do it, consider this point...

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    10
  • Poll closed .





Some links for you to look at.
 
If you don't want to compression the forks you can get one of the those blocks that goes between the wheel and the triple. The GS has some kinda funky suspension in the front though huH? And a low fender but I suppose you can just take the fender off.
 
The telelever makes it unwise to compress from the bars. Get some softies and go around the fork at the lower triple tree.
Cross tie the front wheel so it can’t shift. I might go so far as laying down a sheet of plywood to distribute the weight pin the tailgate.
 
i have done this before, admittedly, with smaller than GS/A bikes, but even with 1000cc. What i have learned to highlight -
1. Have two, good ramps - one for bike, one for you to walk on.
2. May be this one is not right, but the he’ll, i had the bike on the bed with its kick stand down and in a gear - not going far. You may also want to consider zip tie around front or rear brake lever.
3. Have someone help you - only a lot of practice makes this exercise look easy, but in reality it’s hard to roll the bike down especially.. on the way up try to walk the bike up as quickly as practicable, otherwise the wheels do tend to wonder and now you will find yourself in back and forth situation..
4. If you have the right place, position the car with front being on a higher ground - so the tailgate is as close to the ground as possible - even if you have to drive somewhere - loading / offloading is made a lot safer / simplier / less painful..
 
FWIW, I’ve transported many a GS when I worked for Dubbelju. They’re big bulky things in the truck but not that difficult to tie down.

I meant to write Soft Ties are your friend. Also where are the tie down points in the Rivian?
 
Buy a piece of C channel..
Works as both a tailgate protector and a wheel chock. And a ramp if needed.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20250701-082114_Gallery.jpg
    Screenshot_20250701-082114_Gallery.jpg
    295.5 KB · Views: 3
The telelever makes it unwise to compress from the bars. Get some softies and go around the fork at the lower triple tree.
Cross tie the front wheel so it can’t shift. I might go so far as laying down a sheet of plywood to distribute the weight pin the tailgate.

I rather suspect it's the acres of bodywork and switches and all the rest, that make it impossible to compress from the bars or grab anything other than crash bars or the lower triple, and there's probably a liability angle whereby they don't want a mouth-breathing BMWMOA ratchet strap enthusiast to deform the bar inelastically and then have a mass casualty situation in a Starbux parking lot.

1751382286186.jpeg

What is it about an A-arm, a coilover, and a couple of ball joints that make it a problem to squeeze them together through part of their natural travel?

That's like saying a gentleman can't park his BMW sedan with a dead hooker in the trunk, because of suspension sag. And I assure you, Madam, that there is no such stipulation. That was my first question to the salesman on behalf of my.. friend.
 
Buy a chock if the tie downs don’t support angling into the corner with good support. Use four tie downs. Practice once before the day you need to go. Drive up Hwy 87 from 85 or some other bumpy road to ensure it is secured well. You may find the tie down points are not where you want them. Then back to the chock idea.
 
I rather suspect it's the acres of bodywork and switches and all the rest, that make it impossible to compress from the bars or grab anything other than crash bars or the lower triple, and there's probably a liability angle whereby they don't want a mouth-breathing BMWMOA ratchet strap enthusiast to deform the bar inelastically and then have a mass casualty situation in a Starbux parking lot.

View attachment 579083

What is it about an A-arm, a coilover, and a couple of ball joints that make it a problem to squeeze them together through part of their natural travel?

That's like saying a gentleman can't park his BMW sedan with a dead hooker in the trunk, because of suspension sag. And I assure you, Madam, that there is no such stipulation. That was my first question to the salesman on behalf of my.. friend.
We were always told that compressing the telelever puts stress on the crumple zones in the frame :dunno
What I do know is that I've loaded and secured plenty of water cooled GSeses and always used soft ties around the lower clamp, secured the front wheel and tied down the rear wheel or pegs depending on where the tie down points are in the Rivian it should be a no brainer. Personally I avoid having the kickstand down and bike in gear while hauling, just because it seems like an added pressure point on the truck bed, and possible wear and tear on the transmission. I do ALWAYS put the bike in gear to unload so that I can use the clutch as the break while off loading. Be prepared for the suspension working as you go down the road, it can be a little weird at first but you get over it.

You may also want to get a sheepskin seatbelt protector thingy or soft towel to place around the strap where it contacts the body work.
 
Don't know when BMW incorporated the crumple zones but they are for sure on the water cooled GS.
 
We were always told that compressing the telelever puts stress on the crumple zones in the frame :dunno
What I do know is that I've loaded and secured plenty of water cooled GSeses and always used soft ties around the lower clamp, secured the front wheel and tied down the rear wheel or pegs depending on where the tie down points are in the Rivian it should be a no brainer. Personally I avoid having the kickstand down and bike in gear while hauling, just because it seems like an added pressure point on the truck bed, and possible wear and tear on the transmission. I do ALWAYS put the bike in gear to unload so that I can use the clutch as the break while off loading. Be prepared for the suspension working as you go down the road, it can be a little weird at first but you get over it.

You may also want to get a sheepskin seatbelt protector thingy or soft towel to place around the strap where it contacts the body work.
yall read this again. this is the way to do it. by tying at the lower clamp you take the suspension out of the equation and your straps will be more likely to stay tight.

also find tiedowns that have a mechanism to close the hook, so the hook can't unhook just because it went slack for a little bit
 
Rent a van. Improvise on the wheel chock.
 
rdt_20250704_2113091828437982244552907_thumb.jpg
 
Back
Top