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Valve Spring Compressor

Sharky

Sharky

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 31, 2002
Location
Walnut Creek
Moto(s)
GSX-R 1000; CR 250 x 2; Duke II; XR650L; YSR 50;
I need to swap the valve guide seals on my XRL and am doing it with the head on the bike. I need recommendations on a spring compressor that will do the job. I have seen the ones you place over the valve and smack with a hammer and the lever type. I would prefer the lever type since it seems to reduce the chances of losing a retaining clip.

Anyone have any suggestions (keeping in mind the head will be on the bike)?
 
I made my own (hammer type) and I've used it many times...never lost a retainer....they don't usually go flying, but I always use rags around it just in case;)
 
Giant c clamp and a piece of PVC pipe or conduit with slot cut out of the side. Works very well and is cheap
 
Aaron -

I understand why you are trying to do this with the head on. If you end up being successful, takes pics or video to document it. Will be helpful to others as its a pretty common issue with the XRL.

You probably already know this. Supposedly you can get the cam cover off with the motor in place. But I found it easier to just remove the header, intake, boot and carb, then remove all motor mounts to move the motor down and back in the frame to get the cover off. At least thats what I found. Its that tight of a damn fit. Also will give you more room to work with for which ever spring compressor type you go with.

I'm going to follow his thread to see what you end up using and how you do it. :thumbup For the record, I used a janky Harbor Freight OHV spring compressor on my bench with the head removed. I wouldnt recommend it. It worked but wasnt pretty. Much prefer the C Clamp style (but wont work for your attempted use). Never used a hammer type. Hammer type might be tough with clearance and getting straight/lined up with head and motor still in frame, maybe not. :dunno

The guy who would probably know better than anyone is Steve from ADV rider. MCMA something I think. Maybe reach out to him on ADV rider?

Good luck and keep us posted how you proceed. :thumbup
 
Are you using the rope-in-the-cylinder trick to hold the valves in place while you remove the keepers?
 
dmfdmf said:
Are you using the rope-in-the-cylinder trick to hold the valves in place while you remove the keepers?
Click to expand...

+1 for synthetic rope stuffed into the cylinder via spark plug hole, then turning to TDC to compress said rope. Used several times with great success.
 
OaklandF4i said:
Aaron -

I understand why you are trying to do this with the head on. If you end up being successful, takes pics or video to document it. Will be helpful to others as its a pretty common issue with the XRL.

You probably already know this. Supposedly you can get the cam cover off with the motor in place. But I found it easier to just remove the header, intake, boot and carb, then remove all motor mounts to move the motor down and back in the frame to get the cover off. At least thats what I found. Its that tight of a damn fit. Also will give you more room to work with for which ever spring compressor type you go with.

I'm going to follow his thread to see what you end up using and how you do it. :thumbup For the record, I used a janky Harbor Freight OHV spring compressor on my bench with the head removed. I wouldnt recommend it. It worked but wasnt pretty. Much prefer the C Clamp style (but wont work for your attempted use). Never used a hammer type. Hammer type might be tough with clearance and getting straight/lined up with head and motor still in frame, maybe not. :dunno

The guy who would probably know better than anyone is Steve from ADV rider. MCMA something I think. Maybe reach out to him on ADV rider?

Good luck and keep us posted how you proceed. :thumbup
Click to expand...

I know Steve. He bust my ass for not pulling the head and rebuilding the motor.
Lol
I’ll probably just use the hammer style. It’s got magnets inside to catch the keepers and is pretty compact. I assume it’s going to be a pain in the ass for such a simple part swap.

Can’t live with the smokey startup, but doubt it needs anything more than those crusty seals replaced. Probably happens to these bikes because people let them sit and dry out.
 
Shigeta said:
+1 for synthetic rope stuffed into the cylinder via spark plug hole, then turning to TDC to compress said rope. Used several times with great success.
Click to expand...

I haven’t decided on the rope trick or just using compressed air. In a car I would use compressed air. Never done seals on a bike before.
 
Easier by far to pull a motor and do it properly than fuck about in the frame.
 
OaklandF4i said:
The guy who would probably know better than anyone is Steve from ADV rider. MCMA something I think. Maybe reach out to him on ADV rider?
Click to expand...
MCMA1111 on both AdvRider and ThumperTalk.

When I had him rebuild my XR motor a few years ago I asked him about joining BARF and he had on interest whatsoever in doing that. And I doubt that he spends much time on those other forums either. But he sure knows how to build a solid XR motor.
 
I have used the K&L Qwik loader on a CBR1000 head and a Speed Triple head and found I could just push down and capture the valve keepers without using a hammer. Yours may have heavier springs but I was really amazed how well this tool worked. Actually 2 tools, one to remove keepers and one to reinstall.
 
Aaron -

What valve spring compressor did you end up going with and what method to remove the seals? Did you end up removing the head, use air, or rope trick?

Enquiry Minds want to know how it progressed? :teeth
 
Sharky said:
I know Steve. He bust my ass for not pulling the head and rebuilding the motor.
Lol
I’ll probably just use the hammer style. It’s got magnets inside to catch the keepers and is pretty compact. I assume it’s going to be a pain in the ass for such a simple part swap.

Can’t live with the smokey startup, but doubt it needs anything more than those crusty seals replaced. Probably happens to these bikes because people let them sit and dry out.
Click to expand...

I've worked on a bunch of XRs and own one . I believe they go bad due to excessive heat. Go with aftermarket valve stem seals from Kibblewhite or similar.
 
OaklandF4i said:
Aaron -

What valve spring compressor did you end up going with and what method to remove the seals? Did you end up removing the head, use air, or rope trick?

Enquiry Minds want to know how it progressed? :teeth
Click to expand...

I haven't done squat yet. I lost interest when I got a few new planes...I'll get my act together soon though. I want this resolved soon.
 
EastBayDave said:
oh ok. Is it a shim type system as shown in the video? (This is made for KAW "ZX" engines.) If so, I think it might work...?
Click to expand...
The XR650L valves use a screw-type adjuster as shown in the image below. I like them because they're totally easy to adjust. And this photo isn't from an XRL engine, because they have four little round covers over the valve adjusters, not a long oval one like in this photo (as well as a number of other differences).

18717437-L.jpg
 
ScottRNelson said:
The XR650L valves use a screw-type adjuster as shown in the image below. I like them because they're totally easy to adjust. And this photo isn't from an XRL engine, because they have four little round covers over the valve adjusters, not a long oval one like in this photo (as well as a number of other differences).
Click to expand...
OIC; yes screw type is a hundred times easier than shim type....
 
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