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A better chain lube!

Sidewalk said:
Back when I had a chain, I used gear oil.

Aha. Someone read their owner's manual and followed the manufacturer's instructions. :cool
 
afm956 said:
Aha. Someone read their owner's manual and followed the manufacturer's instructions. :cool

Yep. I always thought 90 weight was the best lube. I just use PJ cause it is less messy.
 
Back in the day... my Dad use to have us clean our chains with gasoline, and then when Mom was out shopping, he's heat up the oven, put them in a deep pan with engine oil, and bake it for a few hours. Pull them out, let them cool, and we'd wipe off the excess. Enough for 2 Honda CT 70 (ounce) Servings. :teeth

No offense to anyone that's posted, but I think technology in both chains and lubrication has evolved since the early 70's. Use what works for you, because it works for you.
 
I have used Teflon lubes for bicycles for years by Finish Line. I never gave it much use on the motorcycle, thinking it wasn't really up to the task. I may try it for a while. On my motorcycle I use a combination of WD-40, 80-90wt. oil, and grease (dirty swing arm..... Yes!).
 
Sidewalk said:
What part of "inspecting" did you miss? I didn't just oil the chain and walk away, I would check for wear on the rollers, teeth, and plates, and check stretch and tension.

I had 26,000 miles when I gave up the bike, and I KNOW there was plenty more left. I will never find out with that bike. Now that I have shaft drive...

inspecting=:bs

now go right ahead and :deadhorse
 
The FNG said:
inspecting=:bs

Visual inspection of chain (rollers and plates) and sprockets is worthwhile to detect unusual wear or failure patterns. By the time it's visual, it's pretty far gone, but better than not looking at all. Tactile exam looking for kinks (links that resist being straightened) is also worthwhile.

The real test is measuring distance, pin to pin, over about a 1 foot length of chain. My owner's manual specifies a maximum acceptable 320mm between 21 pins, center to center. This measurement detects roller pin wear (which causes the chain to lengthen). Same way we test/inspect anchor chain aboard ship.

OK, dead horse now thoroughly beaten, someone else's turn.
 
Not worth arguing really, I have shaft drive now. So I will stick with using gear oil :twofinger
 
I use moto line lube, by motorex. They sell it at Scuderia. It's been great....just wonder why I don't see anyone else using it?
 
twitchmonitor said:
I use moto line lube, by motorex. They sell it at Scuderia. It's been great....just wonder why I don't see anyone else using it?
I switched from the Motorex lube. It flings and attracts too much dirt for my liking. Chain cleaning was definitely not fun when the stuff was gunked on there.
 
After reading this thread, I was curious about the price points of the various products mentioned.

I've always been a fan of WD-40 to clean, Maxima Chain Wax to preserve. So I looked at the cost per ounce for each product:

1. DuPont Teflon stuff: Best price I could find was by the case at $35.95 for twelve 4oz cans, this product averages out at $0.75 per ounce.

2. WD-40 is sold at Costco for $5.15 per 16 oz can, they also have a 3 can pack which goes for about $12. So $0.32 or $0.25 per oz, respectively.

3. Maxima chain wax in the 20oz can goes for $8.81 on Maxima's website, which averages $0.44 per ounce.

It appears one ounce of the WD-40 plus an ounce of the chain wax go for the same cost as an ounce of the DuPont product. Expensive!

Not a great value for those who are meticulous about lubing their chains on a regular basis. May be a good value for rich folks who don't lube as often & hate to clean their rims! :laughing
 
Tried the Teflon stuff and it seems to leave the same "waxy buidup" as chain wax. It collects grit as does the chain wax which has to wear the chain and sprocket.

At 6K mi I switched back to WD 40 to "lube" the chain. Still have my original chain and sprockets. The sprockets show no obvious wear and the tension adjustment is out about 1/4" from where it was when the bike was new. There are a few links (3 or 4) which are a little tighter than when new, but the bike and therefore chain and sprockets have around 21K mi on them. When the valves were adjusted recently by a wrench you all respect, he said, after looking at the chain, "just keep doing what ever you are doing". Probably will change them out before leaving for Canada in Sept.

They get a workout on the ZX10r. I lube the chain more often than when I used chain wax but don't have to clean it as before.

Originally went back to WD 40 w/ the TL 1000 in '98 (?). Called a high end chain mfg.; he recommended chain wax or simular product. I asked what he used. He said WD 40.

I also asked a respected shop in S.F. Exactly same answer.

edit: Searched the H.D. Forum and found only one post on the subject? "Huh?"

:2cents
 
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Every 200 - 300 mi.
If on a trip out of town, I may wait to get to the hotel; 500 - 600 mi.
 
There are plenty who will disagree but it works well for me. No cleaning of chains, NO GRIT , can pick it up anywhere when out of town. Most importantly, my chains and sprockets have lasted longer w/ WD 40 than w/ other products.

All of my bikes except the BMWs and H.D.s have had chains. Tried a lot of the products over 500Kmi+ on those bikes. Like the guy at the chain mfg, and the local shop, I now use only WD 40.

If anyone is around Moss Beach and want some Chain Wax or PJs(I'm keeping the Teflon stuff for other uses) come and get it. It's taking up shelf space.

Edit: Also perhaps noteworthy is the fact that I'm only a block from the beach so the air can get salty when the wind blows and it can be wet along the coast. No rust on the chain, just my joints.
 
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Sorry Sammmy, I didn't answer your question.

Yep, I just spray it onto the inside (part that meets the sprockets) of the chain for a couple of rotations then run a paper towel over it. When I use what I called a portable center stand instead of the pit bull, the whole job can be done in 30 sec. The real time saver however is not having to clean the chain or counter shaft sprocket.
 
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