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bike cutting out while riding...

I cant see from the picture how your fuel lines are routed. I assume as this an older dirtbike and you have two petcocks and that it isnt a vacuum activated petcock. Post a pick of the the petcocks and the line routing. If you pull the black line off the carb after it stalls, does it pour gas out?

Once it stalls, will it restart immediately or not? If not, two things I would check first immediately after the stall. Is there fuel in the float bowl. Open the float drain and see if any fuel is coming out. If yes. Pull plug. Is it dry or moist? Ground plug on cylinder and crank over. Is there a stong spark if any at all?
 
BTW, I'm in the city and would be happy to swing by and help for short bit this week. Even if only to follow around until you can get it to stall again and a second set of eyes. Just shoot me a pm. I spent a number of days trying to solve an intermitent stall on my XR650 before the baja trip that turned out to be an incorrectly routed vacuum line on the carb. Just shoot me a pm and I'll give you my contact info.
 
the greenish line comes from the left side of the tank and connects where you see in the pic to the right side and the black line runs from the right side to the carb.

float bowl?
 
i just went out and took these...i have no mechanical experience prior to this thread save for a couple of oil changes in the past.




i did quite possibly change the carb settings unknowingly when putting it back together. i took it apart to clean and when i put it back together i just screwed everything into place and re-attached it to the engine. is that bolt on the bottom of the carb the drain?? you can just see it behind the black fuel line.
 
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Loki, if your floats are adjusted low
by even a couple of millimeters, what I meant by four wet black ones, it means that you are riding on the edge of over lean, and wind or high rpm going up hill for example will put a load on the carbs they can't have a chance to catch up to. If as the bike dies, instead of twisting the throttle open, put it in neutral and coast, blipping only enough to keep the bike from dying, until the float bowls get a chance to fill up again. Try it. If it doesn't work, I'll shut up about it.

HOWEVER...I'll bet you a plate of pad thai it's a fuel delivery issue.
 
thanks CC:thumbup i will try that the first chance i get...likely won't be until tonight when the girls are asleep.
 
channelcat said:
Loki, if your floats are adjusted low
by even a couple of millimeters, what I meant by four wet black ones, it means that you are riding on the edge of over lean, and wind or high rpm going up hill for example will put a load on the carbs they can't have a chance to catch up to. If as the bike dies, instead of twisting the throttle open, put it in neutral and coast, blipping only enough to keep the bike from dying, until the float bowls get a chance to fill up again. Try it. If it doesn't work, I'll shut up about it.

HOWEVER...I'll bet you a plate of pad thai it's a fuel delivery issue.
Click to expand...

:thumbup I'm betting the same thing or sticky float needle on a bike that has been sitting a long time.
 
Cool, yah! but I'm not sharing my pad thai..bro..:teeth
 
Did you recently remove any exhaust header wrap?

My guess is that you're running lean (for whatever reason) and the heat is boiling your fuel.

Removing the exhaust wrap could exacerbate the issue.
 
So no time last night. I was tired and went to bed early.

Rob, no header wrap.
 
float has fuel. dirty old spark plug...very little spark, going for a new one tomorrow.
 
channelcat said:
Cool, yah! but I'm not sharing my pad thai..bro..:teeth
Click to expand...

Second half of post #4....i guess that's my plate of thai.:laughing


And no that clear yellow line running from one side of tank to the other should not be getting air bubbles in it. You need to make sure you're getting good flow out of both petcocks. An air bubble there could expand with heat and push the fuel back into the tank starving the carb.
 
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Those are some strange looking petcocks. Are you sure they are both turned on. My husaberg had a similar set up but with a more standard style petcocks. If both petcocks are open that air bubble should be able to purge up into the tank unless the petcock is clogged.
 
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i pulled the petcocks apart the first time i took the tank off. both are fine and yes, both are open and have been. the only time they get closed is when i go to remove the tank. but upon hearing it again today, i am going to pick up some guitar string for clearing out the jets. i need to as much work done as possible cuz i gotta drop it off at Munroe friday.
 
Have you tried, opening the gas cap, to see if a vacuum is building up in the fuel tank, from a blocked vent line, causing your stalling?

I re-mention it because you took off the tank but didn't work on it (I presume).
 
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Thanks again:thumbup but I took both petcocks off and completely drained the tank on the first go. The vent tube is good and I just removed the vent tube valve thingy today, cut the tube a little shorter and re-attached it to the cap. No blockage in anything so far so...I am lost but, with the knew-to-me know how I just earned over the last 15 or so hours of fiddling:thumbup

More to come...
 
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Also, a super BARFY shout out to CJ, Oaklndf4i for coming over and helping me out:thumbup:thumbup
 
Brandon, hope you get this sorted out at Munroe. They know their shit. The carb is getting plenty of fuel. All vent lines are clear. After stalling, opened the float bowl drain and plenty of fuel drained out. Spark is there (looked weak to me, but it could also be from our tired asses not having the energy to kick fast enough). :teeth F'ing left hand kickers.

The bike is hard to start warm or cold from my short experience over there. We got it started and idling for about 5 minutes and went on a quick test ride. Stalled within 6 blocks using only 1/4-1/3 throttle tops. Rechecked fuel in float bowl, plenty of gas. Could not restart, so pulled back with my triumph.

OP has very limited tools, so we weren't able to pull the pilot to ensure it was clear or measure float height. Due to that, this a great scenario for a professional to do a once over (check/adjust valves, clean or rebuild carb, check for any air leaks, and inspect electrical/ignition). Then start learning process with the acquisition of some basic quality tools.

Brandon, that is one very clean and beautiful TE610 sumo. My jaw dropped when I saw it. It would look great sitting next to even a brand new bike, that clean! :thumbup Keep me posted on what Munroe says. Have u posted up a request to help you get it over there Friday? I'd put it on my rover, but I am booked all day. When you are ready, can help with a list of basic to tools to start out with. Good to meet you! :ride

edit: BTW, when is the last time any of you have seen a delorto carb? :afm199
 
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CJ, thanks again for comin over and helping me out:thumbup and i'll take the list now if you have it prepared:teeth you know, to get ready for later. the socket set i have is really old and i bought when i was young and broke...time to upgrade to big boy stuff!

i posted the request last night and am hopeful. i may have it towed:( or evil knievel it all the way over there:devil and hope it doesn't die on an incline:cry

i will be having the guys at Munroe go over it and set it all straight so that my only issues in the future will be the left hand kick:teeth although that isn't really an issue for me as i never kicked a normal bike before...this one is gonna be my normal:p all you other folks are the weirdos.
 
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Loki1000R said:
i'll take the list now if you have it prepared:teeth you know, to get ready for later. the socket set i have is really old and i bought when i was young and broke...time to upgrade to big boy stuff!
Click to expand...

A quality set of 1/4' and 3/8" 6 point sockets (less prone to strip)
Note, you shouldnt use more than a 1/4 drive on 8mm and smaller bolts
One or two extensions. I like having at least one wobbler (to reach tough spots)
A quality set of 6pt wrenches (again, less prone to strip)
3/8" torque wrench. A cheaper bar type is ok if used correctly and calibrated right
JIS screwdrivers (yes they are different than regular phillips)
Impact driver (to help remove stubborn screws and bolts) One of the best and most inexpensive tools in my garage.
Feeler guage
Caliper guage

This is kinda the bare minimum to start working. You don't have to go snap on. Craftsman is ok for most hobbyist IMO. Then as you progress into more projects you can slowly add on tools as you go. There are certain bolts that may require deep sockts, or a spot where you may need an elbow, offset wrench, a decent multi meter, allen head sockets, 1/2" driver, breaker bar etc etc. But you add those on as you go when the project requires. Some folks go and buy a huge tool chest of tools and never use half of them. Best to start small with quality stuff and add over time as needed IMO. They will last you a lifetime (my most prized possessions).

A big part of the fun for me is learning about each bike I own and gaining new skills as I go. :thumbup
 
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