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bike cutting out while riding...

:thumbup

Also, I got me a couple of spark plugs today and will be tryin to get something going tonight when I get home. Fingers crossed and all that!
 
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new plug in and the carb adjusted per the recemendation of my coworker, 1 full turn out on the main jet. the bike is running pretty good and honestly i think it may have been the plug for the most part. although, i did have to adjust the idle a bit as well. i did not fiddle with the mixture screw as it is really late and i like my neighbors that live on either side of me:teeth

Rightcoast, i will still be taking you up on your offer though cuz i don't know for sure that it is fixed...see you in the morning. besides, i still wanna buy you coffe and donuts for even bothering to take time out your day to help:thumbup
 
bike is in the shop and it looks like it'll be cheaper than i thought:party estimate was $700 something for valve check, leak down on the elec, chain and sprocket install, plus other stuff i already forgot.

another super BARFY shout out, this time to Rightcoastbias for picking me up and droppin me back at the house:thumbup Ryan, YOU ROCK:cool
 
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Loki1000R said:
bike is in the shop and it looks like it'll be cheaper than i thought:party estimate was $700 something for valve check, leak down on the elec, chain and sprocket install, plus other stuff i already forgot.

another super BARFY shout out, this time to Rightcoastbias for picking me up and droppin me back at the house:thumbup Ryan, YOU ROCK:cool
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Glad to help, got this sweet shirt while at Munroe.


15001640715_0baa4ff268_b.jpg
 
Damn, this much trouble, huh? Good luck and glad things are finally looking up.
 
not really trouble...just learning. if i had more bikes in my resume, i would likely be more adept at figuring this shit out:thumbup plus, i really think the spark plug solved the main issue with the bike cutting out. when i held up the new/old together, both tips were small but the old one was waaay smaller. do they wear out like that?

also, while riding it around last night i actually turned the bike off a couple of times on purpose and it restarted first or second kick every. time. it's in the shop right now because i should have brought it when i bought the damn thing:facepalm
 
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so i got the bike back tues and the ride from the shop to home was awesome:ride no issues to report. in fact it was running just fine and none of the idling issues from before. now mind you that i had it going good the night before^^^as above post states^^^. i got it to Munroe with the help of Rightcoastbias-Ryan:thumbup

i go to work later that same day and it straight up died on me 2 blocks from my house. a small surge in power (as if i had blipped the throttle) and then the same symptoms that started this thread. :mad it took me nearly 30 minutes to get it started again and i was almost late to work :mad i was PISSED to say the least. now, at this point i'm not even thinking about throwin blame at anyone. i am just more confused because it ran soooo smooth(for a TE610)just 3 hours earlier. i guess it may have been a small burp of air in the fuel line cuz the ride home was the same awesome as the ride from the shop.

about to go ride around now just to make sure it is all good to go:ride
 
Did alot of reading about this last night. It seems the huskys have a few common flaws that you could check. The most common is the magnets on the flywheel come loose and move around causing misses and non start issues. seems they can move around and it works fine one minute and then no worky the next. the fix for this is a good cleaning followed by a strong epoxy or JB weld (just for you alan). Another problem is some models have the cdi mounted to the triples behind the head light. This requires the cdi to get its ground through the steering bearings and grease. The fix is to run a ground jumper wire from the cdi ground to a good ground point on the frame.
 
By what you are describing it's the EXACT symptoms as when my cdi was failing. Run fine then die. Sometimes start right back up and sometimes it's a bitch. There were times when it would not start and I would just walk away. Come back to it later or the next day and It fires right up. Then I learned to give it a smack with a stick and it would start right up. I think it would be wise to reach out to the barfs and try and do a cdi swap. Then ride it around for a couple hours and see if that solves it.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/CDI-ECU-Hus...es&hash=item4d1fa153f5&vxp=mtr#ht_1331wt_1153

According to the title of this link it looks like you could borrow one from anyone with the listed 410te, 570r, 610te, 610smr etc.
 
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A&D...thanks again:thumbup i will look into this further. i know for a fact that mine and the 410 are the same save for cc. says so in the owners manual through several mentions as well as the handbook. and that my bike, i believe, has the tc motor and the enduro lighting kit sold as an accessory.

also, the mechanic told me that my lights are flickering because the bike is a/c only. no d/c current to regulate the flow of power hence the lights dimming with on/off throttle input.

 
Loki1000R said:
so i got the bike back tues and the ride from the shop to home was awesome:ride no issues to report. in fact it was running just fine and none of the idling issues from before. now mind you that i had it going good the night before^^^as above post states^^^. i got it to Munroe with the help of Rightcoastbias-Ryan:thumbup

i go to work later that same day and it straight up died on me 2 blocks from my house. a small surge in power (as if i had blipped the throttle) and then the same symptoms that started this thread. :mad it took me nearly 30 minutes to get it started again and i was almost late to work :mad i was PISSED to say the least. now, at this point i'm not even thinking about throwin blame at anyone. i am just more confused because it ran soooo smooth(for a TE610)just 3 hours earlier. i guess it may have been a small burp of air in the fuel line cuz the ride home was the same awesome as the ride from the shop.

about to go ride around now just to make sure it is all good to go:ride
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Brandon, a small air bubble in the air hose isnt the fault. Your carb is getting fuel as evidenced by draining the float after it stalled. There is something else going on. Carbs are really elegant simplicity. They either work, or dont. As long as they are clean, in working order, and not clogged... they work. Carbs dont generally produce an intermittent failure like yours. Electrical components can and do act like this. Test fine cold, fail after warm or hot. Work again after cooling. If funds allow, I would go back to Munroe and allow them to continue to look for the issue.

Sorting out an old dirtbike can take time and patience.
 
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CJ, the bike as been running perfect since that incident on Tuesday! No issues to report at all which, kinda makes it more confusingo_O it idles good and hasn't stalled or cut out once since then...:dunno
 
Well, the bike had a small oil leak. Where is the oil coming from you ask???

One of the bolts immediately above where the spark plug sits had it's top sheared off sometime before I bought it. Well I guess having the work done recently loosened it and it wa rattling in place. Source found.
Bolts ordered!
Bike sitting again:(
 
From my reading....another common problem. At least it a cheap and easy repair.
 
the bolt had it's head sheared off flush with the engine surface.

the damaged bolt is in the middle, it's washer on the left and on the right, another, smaller one as an example of what the bolt head looked like.

a very wet coil and surrounding area from leak. I have already wiped it a little. when I get a chance i'll be removing the tank to clean it up and re-install the bolt when it arrives.
 
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so i got the bolts in and went to work gettin everything off to remove/insert old and new bolts. here is the problem i am now having: the new bolt isn't seating into the case at all and neither is the old not broken bolt.


both bolts are nearly identical save for color:wtf the new bolts both fit into the left side just fine but the right side is not accepting either new or old. <note the new bolt in the first pic>


now this image is off because they're sitting in my hand but the new one is actually a bit longer on the threaded portion as well as overall length and the old one is longer on the non-threaded portion.
 
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am i fucked??

will i be needing a new case?

can i just plug the hole and be done wih it? the are 8 bolts around the perimeter of the top of the case and 3 pictured. 11 bolts total, just holding the top on:wtf
 
Please help! I don't wanna drive the civic to work anymore:cry
 
Seems like either the threads in the case are damaged or there is a bolt alignment issue. Tapping it may be a challenge. Maybe try to find a really long tap, or at least blow some compressed air in the hole, and throw some lubricant down thereally to make the bolt go in easier.
 
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