slackmeyer
New member
A rough break-in, no. A firm break in yes. Lots of pressure in the cylinders to seat the rings against the walls. Revs in the middle of the tach. If you rev the bike out or lug it down, it's going to break in poorly.
My BMW service guy commented that the bikes which were broken in on the gas almost always consume less oil than bikes that were broken in with kid gloves.
Demo bikes are almost always broken in by an employee of the dealer. Brake in practices will vary between shops.
As far as I know, all modern BMWs are also equipped with Oxygen sensors. The run a little lean for my taste, but the computer will automatically compensate for a free-flowing exhaust.
The last time I did that, I brought the mechanic a 6 pack of beer a week later.![]()
I agree with most of this. I'm not really sure which break in method is better- I don't really think that engine manufacturers are arranging an evil conspiracy to make our motorcycles burn oil- then again, the hard break in method has lots of devotees. Probably not actually so important in the long run. I'd guess that most of the break in happens in the first few thousand engine revolutions- i.e., the first minute or so. Other than that, just don't do anything stupid.
A couple other things- if the valve adjustment wasn't done correctly, it might lead to a burnt valve/valve seat. That's not the same as a dropped valve, and it won't cause major engine failure.
the R- bikes hold a lot of oil, as has been pointed out, and the OP had the oil at the correct place (middle of sight glass). If he had run it out of oil (just a "what-if"), he'd probably have a different set of symptoms- rod knock, or the engine seizing.
Anybody torn the engine apart yet? I'll be interested to see how far the damage went in there.
zak
