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valve adjustment for f4i, not for the novice

once you've replaced the shims and reinstalled the intake cam your ready to make sure the factory marks line up. most japanese sportbikes are made to that when the marks on the cams line up with the head the timing is set properly

1217434-camlines.jpg
 
torque the cam holder to factory spec 12 N-m, in order

1217436-torquejornal.jpg
 
replace valve cover and torque to factory spec, 10 N-m

1217442-torquecvr.jpg
 
replace the shitass OEM CCT with the APE 1 :thumbup

1217451-newcct_gasket.jpg
 
once the new CCT is in place set the CC tension

1217452-cctreplacement2.jpg
 
now that you've got that done you're ready to reinstall the plug, cap/coils, and the MAP sensor and IAT for the throttle boddies sync

1217457-plugintosync.jpg
 
once the bike is up to temp the gauges will probably look something like this....fooked :laughing

1217459-beginsync.jpg
 
after the sync it should look more like this :thumbup

1217460-finishsync.jpg
 
after that you're pretty much done. put the aibox and sensors back together, reinstall the box, stacks, filter, top, tank, plastic, seat and go for a damn ride :thumbup
 
Thanks for the inside look.
How long did all that take in real time?
I'm thinking about as long as it took for you to post all those pics.
:twofinger

Older Yamahas are easier, right?
:teeth

BTW...you may want to put up a warning for people on dialup.
 
donoman said:
Damn dude, this is a sweet How To!!!

Can you go over what to do for gear driven cams :blush

for the vfr? sure hit me up @ the sf meet :staRang
 
daventura said:
Thanks for the inside look.
How long did all that take in real time?
I'm thinking about as long as it took for you to post all those pics.
:twofinger

Older Yamahas are easier, right?
:teeth

BTW...you may want to put up a warning for people on dialup.

took about 5 hours all together. but ya know those cbr's and me are old friends :laughing

yamahas aren't much different. the big problem with your bike is that the cam chain is in the center, so the marks are a little harder to get lined up. just takes more time. plus 5 more shims....damn 20 valve heads :twofinger
 
wow now that was detailed. Gonna have to print this thread out for future reference. Just to have an idea and if it's safe to ask, how much would you charge for this work (high estimate, price subject to change of course ;) )? If you'd rather not say, just ignore me and I'll think to PM you when my time is up

:thumbup
 
The F4I valve adjustment looks like a walk in the park compared to those damned TL1000R valve adjustments Skip. ;) You make all this look so easy bro...keep up the great work :thumbup
 
I didn't feel like messing with mine, so I had Hare Racing do it. I took it apart down to the valve cover and measured the clearances myself, but had them do the actual adjustment. They only charged me 2 hours labor and I had a couple of hours into it myself, so it ended up not being all that expensive.
 
oh pleeeze don't tell me the F2 is gonna be this big of a pain!!!!

cuz that means my saturday is now ruined! :cry
 
Shawn is da freaking man!!

Is anyone making this a sticky? Better yet, should stick this in the F4i index thread.
 
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