• There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

bike cutting out while riding...

Post #18 from the second link above shows it clearly. It appears both the rocker shaft AND its' collar need to be aligned or "clocked" perfectly to allow the bolt through. Get a tiny dental mirror and a flashlight and have a peek.
Brian
PS there should be a water pump gasket in the gasket envelope (FedEx envelope) I gave you with the bike.
 
Brian, the bolts are going into the space just fine. they go all the way to about 3/4 of the way in, which is about where the thread starts. i'm gonna dig into that SMJ thread a little bit later but, for now...

i can't get the top of the case off! all bolts have been removed and the pump is off as well. i pulled the impeller, am i not getting it? is it just stuck and should i go buy a mallet?

p.s. i double checked the gaskets, nope. there are 3 gaskets that you gave me. all 3 are for the main case.

i'm making a list now for parts so i can get this done! anything y'all see that i def need to order aside from gaskets?any small thing will be greatly appreciated:thumbup i'm not rich but, my motivation to get this thing back on the street is temporarily blinding my good judgement..I NEED TO RIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I know I bought that gasket because I was going to do the cam chain job and bought all the parts to do so. Then I measured the slack and realized it was currently fine. I just spoke with Dan at Motoxotica in Vacaville (707-446-4282)and he has plenty in stock (a couple bucks).
The rocker case to cylinder head seal has no paper gasket, it's a liquid RTV or hylomar paste, a "RUBBER" mallet or copper hammer will be needed to break the seal. Before you do though, are you certain the bolt is landing all the way through that assembly? Again let me ask how did you get the broken bolt out of its' hole, did it just thread out easily?
Brian
 
Brian, the oil leak lead me to it. when i found it, about a 1/3 of the bolt was up out of the hole. i just reached in and pulled it out, no resistance as it has un-screwed itself somehow:wtf i saw the "liquid gasket" in the manual and was thinking that it is just kinda stuck for now but i wanted to be sure. and i'll be calling Dan for things i need:thumbup
 
Last edited:
Understood. Let's go back to square one. Are you able to get a literal birds eye view of the hole with a light to see if the rocker shaft or its' bushing/bearing have twisted at all that would interfere with this situation? If it appears clear, very possible that after the head of the bolt broke off, the bolt shaft walked its' way up the threads and then danced on the upper most thread of the cylinder head (don't forget how much these engines vibrate). That could of crushed/dented the 1st part of the threads within the cylinder head not allowing you to simply reinstall a new bolt because the beginning most threads are banged up. After inspecting a through path visualy, buy or sorce one of of these, http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-M8-x-1-...d-Thread-/400608995860?_trksid=p2054897.l5667
 
well fuck me! went out just now to give it one more go and was looking at the manual. i noticed it says something about tdc. i walk over to the bike and give the kick lever a solid push and it forced the top off a little more than half way:party
will post pics later, gotta go for now...

Brian, thanks for that link:thumbup
 
Last edited:
Beware on the ebay link I wrote, that's a guess on the size. I'd take one of the bolts to a local mechanic (gas station included) or machine shop (it should take them less than 45 seconds) to size out the pitch and diameter before you buy a uber long tap. You definitely want to go this route BEFORE you crack the seal between the head and rocker box.
BK
 
Your post #107 was written while I was typing #108.............ugggh! You broke the seal, not a bad thing (will require extra steps to get it right) but may have been unnecessary. It also may have allowed valves to be hit by the piston. STOP working on your bike, you may be doing more harm than good.
BK
 
ok, stopping now. the head is off already and i couldn't see into the hole because of where the engine sits under the frame. now i have an unobstructed view and the very top of the threaded part is damaged:(
an image of the damaged threads:
p3RsWgV.jpg

i played with the image a little to clear it up a bit. you can make out the flattened part of the thread inside the awesome red circle i drew for you:laughing
 
Last edited:
Nice looks like and easy fix. See if you can get it out with a pick or small screw driver and remove the offending part of metal from the threads. Almost looks like the part was properly deburred and some of the machining flashing got pushed into the thread hole which is preventing you from installing the bolt. Aside from that first thread looks good. Good luck with it!
 
That damaged thread you're seeing is slightly smashed down to where it got kind of pushed in the way. There is no pieces or debris in there at all. It's been deformed a little from what I can see.

Y'all think the right size tap will fix it? I already know the bolt size and thread angles from other replacements I have. The link the Brian posted is the correct size/angle. I will double check at Lowe's when I get there in the morning though.
 
"Y'all think the right size tap will fix it?" Definitely if you do it right, it's not hard but the 1st time unsupervised can bring trouble and you only get one shot at it. Again call me and i'll walk you through it.
Brian
650-714-9078
PS I think I called it in post 106, "very possible that after the head of the bolt broke off, the bolt shaft walked its' way up the threads and then danced on the upper most thread of the cylinder head (don't forget how much these engines vibrate). That could of crushed/dented the 1st part of the threads within the cylinder head not allowing you to simply reinstall a new bolt because the beginning most threads are banged up.".
Also the shop that adjusted your valves must of did a quick "bolt check", I always do, and gave the top bolts a quick "snug", usually a good habit but occasionally this happens.
 
Brian, i'll be givin you a call tomorrow. i went to Lowe's and they only had standard taps, no metric. i'll be checking the Lowe's by Oyster point in south city and the Home Depot in Colma in the morning. i ran out of time this morning.

p.s. you actually called it twice:thumbup oil in the hole and only the top of the threads damaged:thumbup
 
Once the tread is repaired, your still going to need a couple tools. 1st old school razor blades to clean off both surfaces (used at high angles, like near 90 degrees, you don't want to gorge the soft metal just carefully scrape the old stuff off). 2nd a liquid sealant like an Anaerobic or RTV, I suggest the first. Both of these products are time sensitive so you want to get that cam box flat onto the cylinder head sooner than later but there is a catch, when you tighten the cam box down it will force some of the valves open and resist what your doing. You need to slowly turn all of the bolts at about the same angle and at the same time, that's impossible without robots so what you should do is count the turns and sequence and level it down as flat as possible with minimal stress on the fragile cam box.
Not trying to scare you, just advise to make your 1st repair successful.
Brian
 
Brian, i'll be givin you a call tomorrow. i went to Lowe's and they only had standard taps, no metric. i'll be checking the Lowe's by Oyster point in south city and the Home Depot in Colma in the morning. i ran out of time this morning.

p.s. you actually called it twice:thumbup oil in the hole and only the top of the threads damaged:thumbup

Don't bother buying the tap. It's such a common size that I suggest you go to your near by gas station that offers repair work and show the guy the bolt, tell him you need a tap and a tool to work it for just one silly hole and offer a C-note deposit. Ask the guy what his fav booze is or offer lunch. If he's close to where the bike is, he may offer to come over a do it himself for like $20.
Brian
 
Now you thinking! the dirty VC coveralls guys tend to be best for rouge work.
Brian
 
Sears will have your tap set that is good enough quality for a hobbyist. Go online to ensure its in stock. You should have a set anyways. I have a set, but not available until later next week.

Are you sure the Husky didnt come originally with a valve cover gasket? I know there is RTV on there now, but I am pretty sure there is a gasket available. There was on my 450 and would be surprised yours doesnt have one available. Cleaning rtv off everytime you check the valves will be a pain in the ass. Get the gasket..... call Dan at Motoxitica

If you really must use rtv, I use brake cleaner and a plastic putty knife to remove. Then scotchbrite pad very lightly if still needed. Lastly I use a razor only when I cant get it off with the previous two methods. Those castings are surprisely soft and easy to knick.

If you can wait until next week, I'm happy to come over and spend a 1/2 hour with you to help tap that thread.
 
Last edited:
I'd have to check for a gasket. In the manual it shows/says liquid gasket. The bike may end up sitting til at least next week anyway. I will be ordering gaskets from the coolant pump and, though they appear fine, the two comp covers as well.
 
Back
Top